280Zone

you can use a nail, but replace it with a cotter pin in the future.

even with the spindle pin puller I had to use my new ones. It seems some come out a little easier than others.

Buzz, did you get my email?

I use Toyota trucks with the V6 and a car dolly no problem. If you are using a trailer then you need to consider the V8 powered trucks. It is a balance based on the amount of towing you will do. If you tow alot it might be better to get the power of a V8, if you towing is occasional a V6 of straight 6 will get you by.

I think I have a few "extras", you can contact me directly via email.

I have that rear hatch too just collecting dust if anyone is interested. and the F40 rear wing going up on ebay soon.

Clear hood? With LED lights? this is starting to sound a little BLINGy

To avoid sticking just use PAM cooking spray. Very easy to use since in comes in a spray can, and very inexpensive, and it smells good. I don't use that on my hoods but have used it for small parts quick.

Sign me up for a big patch.

One of our members has one like it. http://www.desertzassociation.com/membersrides/carlo/index.shtml Kaminari rear wing

Cut panels to minimize filler. For trim holes, weld closed. Dimpling and filling will eventually crack. If you will keep the car less then two years filler would be fine.

I have the Harbor Freight nibbler and that thing is a blast to use. However i will second or third the caution of the moon shapped daggers that go EVERYWHERE! I still find them stuck in my shoes..

Can you elaborate? I have an air fuel meter hooked to it to read my very rich condition so wouldn't it be sending that same signal to the ECU?

I am looking for some more ideas… I have installed a rebuilt 81 turbo engine into my 1975 280Z. I also used the 81 turbo wiring harness. I seem to have everything hooked up but it appears something is still wrong. The car starts and runs and sounds good. The problem is that as the engine gets to operating temperature it starts running too rich. The things I have tried are; Jumping head temperature sensor contacts (bypassing sensor) Tested head temp sensor, tested fine. Replaced head temperature sensor with a brand new one. Bypassed water temp sensor Tested water temp sensor, tested fine Replaced water temp sensor Tested sensor continuity back to ECU, all tested fine Tried a different ECU, problem still there Tried a different AFM (could not test per service manual since terminal numbers did not match book) Replaced injector electrical plugs along with head temp sensor and air regulator electrical plugs. Grounded AFM Grounded ECU Grounded engine block Set timing to 20 degrees I have a inline fuel pressure gauge and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure seems to be constant and rising when engine is revved. Any ideas on anything else I should check would be appreciated.

If anyone is looking for a Velo Rossa rear clip I have one I won't be using and can make you a deal on it.

I have a mold for fiberglass headlight buckets filled in. Email direct if you are interested.

I got mine, thanks Mat. But can I get a 4X8 one?

I think I have a set if you are interested drop me an email.

I plan on running the same intake and adding a carb spacer. But I run a hood with a bit more clearance.

I heard the owner actually pulled out a ton of good car and parts to a new location. He did have a sale awhile back and there were some good deals but i can't justify yet more projects around the house. Brian, just settle in there are deals to be had here in AZ just have to be patient.

You tourist are so funny.

http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Mvc-877x.jpg

Nice find, it looks as good as the ones I see here in Arizona.