Lockjaw

You have to swap out the harness, ecu, distributor, distributor drive shaft, coil and ignitor deal, afm. I guess it goes without saying you would need the exhaust manifold, and I would use the turbo intake as well. Wouldn't be a bad idea to add the turbo head either. The reason most times we don't get much beyond that point is we usually encourage people to get the turbo engine since it is designed to be turbo charged. An NA engine isn't. You can do it and it should be fine, just have to be really careful with the boost since the compression is higher on the zx engine.

You may have mystery turbo death. The first thing I did on my ZX with the stock fuel injection when it misbehaved was clean the connections at the ecu and AFM with brake clean. Disconnect the harness at each one, and spray the pins and the connectors and then reconnect. Usually that solved the problem. 40 psi of fuel pressure? Is that at idle? That is to high if it is, it should be around 27 to 28 with the vacuum line connected. Also, you should be running some fuel injector cleaner thru the fuel system. STP in the black bottle has always worked well for me. Once a quarter should be sufficient. Make sure you pull the little filter out of the back of the fuel pump and see if it has trash in it.

I would bet I don't have 180 at the wheels in my 260 yet, and it is unhappy if you lug it below 2000 rpms in 4th or 5th. My turbo engine doesn't care where it is. Of course that could be the difference between fuel injection and su's. I just wonder if that was a joke. Kind of like the honda engine with eagle rods.

Did you swap anything distributor related. Make sure the distributor is connected to the harness if it is stock. You should also check the ballast resistor and a coil with a test light and make sure they are getting power. I have that problem with mine from time to time. I put a 240 distributor in it the other day and it would not spark, put the 260 distributor back in and it fired right up. I( haven't gotten to the bottom of that yet. Also, make sure you did not reverse the wires to connect the coil when you replaced it. A test light would be a wise cheap investment for you. Start checking and seeing where you do and don't have power.

I am thinking not. I am going to go start it when it is cold again and see what happens. Someone please tell me what this thing is....

Info please. I want fuel injection.

Take the plugs out and turn the engine over without turning on the fuel pump. If you had my little remote starter, it would be easy. Use a set of needle nose vice grips or something to pinch the fuel line closed and turn the engine over. You know if you are thinking you may have flooded a fuel injected car floor the gas pedal, hold it there, and turn it over and usually they start. I guess it goes without saying that when it starts, you will need to let off the gas.

HE, there is this device attached to my balance tube, and it lookes sort of like a battery terminal cleaner. It has two vacuum ports on it. One connects to a little solenoid that has a rod that attaches to the center linkage on the front SU. The other port picks up vacuum from the balance tube. There is an adjusting screw facing the front of the car. What does this thing do? Is it some sort of choke, or an idle raising device for using AC? What? Somebody please tell me.

I have been trying to tell the V8 guys in the local club that for years, they don't listen. They don't dyno either.

Anybody ever have to replace the vacuum port in the front SU? Mine is broken off, and no I did not break it. How can I fix it? Any idea where to get something that will work if I drill out the broken off piece?

Yeah nice flat power curve. How about engine spec's and efi/turbo info.

I would like to hear about your FI stuff. I have SU's on my 2.8 NA engine right now, but have said all along I should have put fuel injection on it. As for carb's, believe it or not, a good set of side drafts come's mighty close, and you cannot touch the throttle response of individual venturies, or the flow potential. SU's are totally simple. SO how about sharing some info man. I would like to go to the FI and see what I come up with.

The HKS does 91 mm.

Well you could take the plugs out and spray some brake clean or carb cleaner in each cylinder and then turn the engine over and blow it out the spark plug hole. If you get it leaned out, the carbon should take car of itself. I would drop your needles slightly from the piston, and you also need to get the fuel pressure set. 3.5 is the max psi you can run. You are probably overpowering your needle and seat, which is why you are having such difficulty getting the mixture set.

I use it on my lawnmower even. It is great on spark plugs and I even used it on my head bolts on the latest engine I assembled since the head bolts have a tendency to stick. Really you should use it anyplace I bolt it likely to rust or seize, particularily in exhaust.

I wonder if we could get someone to make/fab a bellhousing to run the Z32TT trans? Those are strong, although it might be tough squeeze in the tunnel.

I think that is when "hell freezes over" That was exactly the article I was referring to, and I remember the thing had some insane compression and ran 87 octane, and liked it. I think it even had small valves too. I may explore the long rod theory a little more and see what it does. I have a friend who did that with his poncho ( another friend), and he is running some crower rods for a big block chevy, and they are longer, and his engine is strong. He has ported edelbrock heads, a roller cam (mild), and some sort of extrude honed exhaust manifolds, and his car runs sweet. He put a 6 speed richmond in it.

What needles did you run? You are way to rich by the sounds of things. Are you seeing black smoke coming out of the exhaust? I am assuming you know what you are doing since you did all this work. You can modify things a little by dropping the needle from the piston. Also you should probably check your fuel pressure and make sure you don't have to much. I would adjust the mixture on the underside of the car to make it as lean as possible and still run and let it warm up and then start adjusting the mixture. One carb at a time, and get adjusting the direction that gives you the fastest idle. It you run out of leaness adjustment, you will have to drop the needles down a few mm or get a stock set. I have sm needles, and they run a little rich, and I thought they might be to fat, so I put some stock one's back in, and it may idle better, but it doesn't run better going down the road.

OK well Hotrod did a new article a few years ago where they took the rods from a Ford 300 I6, had some JE pistons made, used a 327 crank to make a 350 and it made insane kind of power on 87 octane with like 11 to 1 compression. I would have to see if I even had the mag anymore, so don't quote me yet on the compression. It was a street engine too. While I have modified my rod to stroke ratio a little, I talked with a guy named Jack at scorpion racing, who got all of electramotives old I6 stuff, and he told me the way to make power in a datsun engine is to use a longer rod. He said use a 5.7 inch rod. I think 240 is 5.3 or something like that. I am sure there is benefit there since I don't have any issue's with detonation. I could go highr than 18 psi with a T04 rajay I used to have that bit the dust without detonation. That was with the old stock fuel injection though, not the JWT setup I have now. I am positive I have a much more agressive timing curve because Clark told me when he sent me this chip to be very careful about boosting. Whatever, I will say this, it completely changed the sound of the engine when you hit it. Totally different. I guess the other nice thing about it is I already have the rods, just need to get the crank and order pistons. My friend has a diesel maxima he said I can come out and take it out of the car, I can have it. Not sure if I wouldn't rather spend 250 and just buy one and not go thru that hassle. Might have to try it just for fun.

I was just about to jump in there and burst his bubble on your carbs, but you beat me to it. For all around power and driveability, you cannot beat the fuel injected turbo engine. I have been dealing with my 260 with fits of anger, and have wondered why in the heck I bothered with SU's when I could have fuel injected it. You have to choke it to start it, it doesn't like to idle until it is warm, and I swear the mixture adjustment isn't working on one of them. I should be running better than I am, and I have to rule out the carbs before moving on. Of course if I had 3 two's, then I would be in a different situation entirely. They sound sweet and have nice throttle response. Turbo it and never look back. You won't be sorry.

JEff I just put a hurst competition plus shifter on my stock t5, and it rocks. I would suggest checking on that option too. I picked it up for 129.99 and it has the adjustable stops too. I should not have any problem hitting the gears now, and the second to third shift is vastly better. No up, over and up again. Just shove it in the direction you want to go and it is there. One other thing you can do, and I did this in my 240 when I put a ZX trans in it. Mount the trans in the stock position and then heat the shifter up and bend it. I had to do that in my 240 since the shifter would have had me bashing my knuckles on the dash every time I shifted into third. The neat thing about it was all of that was under the shift boot, so no one knew. I tried cutting and welding one, but it broke and I bashed my knuckles anyway. I have been thinking about going to a tremec or a world class t5. They are nice since they have a better over drive than the BW, and you can switch to a 3.9 gear in the back since first is not so short. I would personally try the shifter first before I spent a bunch of money on fabbing up some trans and buying a tremec. I think Mike put a shifter on his BW and had nothing but raves.

The halfshafts will work as long as you get r200 spindles that go in the diff from a 280z or Zx. Turbo's use CV axles, and if you want to use those, you have to do some fabricarion, or order adapters from Russ. You may also run into a problem with the flange for the driveshaft being different, ie the turbo one uses 14mm bolts, the regular 240 one uses 12. You can either swap the flanges, from another r200, or find a big drive shaft from a 280 zx and use that. Why not get a 3.9 out of a ZX instead? It would work better than the 3.56. Of course if you have the ZX trans with the .745 over drive, 3.56's are sweet on the interstate. You know you need to have the mustache bar from a 280z to right?

You need to turn the boost down to less than 15 psi or you will soon have apex seals exiting via the tail pipe. Just remember, one ping in a rotary means rebuild time. Nice score. I bet that is a fun play toy.

I saw that link somewhere else, and I think it was a joke. Could you imagine how much racket that thing would make if true?

Yeah that should be adequate.