Lockjaw

Plugs and mixture.

I am going to be devils advocate a little. First, destroking an L6 would not be that big a deal if you were force inducted. I have toyed with the idea of building an engine with a 2.4 crank and rods, and a 2.8 liter block bored to 89mm. That would put me back at about a 2.8 liters. When I built my turbo engine, I used the 2.4 liter rods and had the piston pin height adjusted in an effort to improve the rod to stroke ratio. While I am sure it is minimally improved, I non the less can run 18 psi on pump pee with a pretty agressive timing curve according to Clark. I have flat tops 1 mm over that sit down about 10 thou in the bore. Torque may be king on the street, but only to a point. Torque is what moves mass, horsepower is what keeps it moving. Case in point. My friend built a poncho 455 and he did everything he could to improve torque. He advanced his cam, had a set of headers with smaller tube diameter primaries made, variable duration lifters. This is a 455 with ported ram air 4 heads, a performer rpm, a 750 holley with a proform center section that flows 850 cfm, 3 inch exhaust to the mufflers and then 2.5 after, and 1.65 roller rockers. He has a 2500 rpm stall, and 3.73 gears. Best pass is a 13.59 at 102. Lj said he was stupid to worry about torque with a big block, and he should have put the cam in straight up, skipped the variable duration lifters, and ran big tube headers since his heads are set up to breathe. He also determined thru desk top dragster or whatever that he could pick up power by going back to 1.5 ratio rockers. If he wanted torque, he should have run a comp cams 268 cam, and he would have had it. There is a growing group of guys racing stock appear muscle cars now that are running deep into the 12's and some are breaking into the 11's. They are running stock for the period tires, which means those old polyglass tires, and they are reatarding their camshafts to reduce torque and increase topend hp to get their times. Yes these guys cheat, but still, running 12's on G60-14 polyglass tires in an old muscle car is getting down. If I had my choice and built a 3.1 liter, it would have about a 94 mm bore or so, and whatever stroke it takes to work that out. Of course I turbo, so it may not be the same for someone NA. Also, Honda's have a long stroke and they are not torquey engines for their size. Ok, play with my devil's advocating.

Risilone is supposed to be good for sticking, ticking lifters in a v8. I checked into replacing hydraulic lifters when I had a p90a, and I could get all I wanted at the time, for like 65 bucks each. Did not take me long to realize that a solid lifter head was the way to go. I would soak in kerosene.

The poncho guy ran the crane 284H I think. It is a good sized stick. He did not add enough compression either, he probably ended up around 9 to 1. He was talking about getting more stall, and I was like, you are an idiot. You don't need stall when you have an engine set up to breathe that is all choked down. What you need to do is retard the cam shaft, get some big tube headers and turn the thing tighter. It is a big block,it has torque already. I read an article in hot rod where the built a 350 using the rods out of a 6 cylinder inline ford, and it made alot of power on 87 octane gas, and their claim was that the longer rod improved the rod to stroke ratio and made the engine more detonation resistant and powerful. I think their original claim was Chevy screwed up when they raised the displacement of the 327 to 350 with stroke rather than bore. You know how that goes though, some people just think the 327 was "the smallblock". Is that the one you were referring too? I am sure you are right about the stroker engines as well. I started with a 2.4, went to a 2.6, and then a 2.8, and performance improved with displacement. Substantially. I am sure a 3.1 would really put down the power, and may work towards that one day. I am wondering if on the shorter rod engine if offsetting the piston pin a little would help?? I know JWT does that in their forged pistons they stick in the 300ZXTT's since it makes them alot quieter. I think the HP loss was less than a hp a hole. I mean if it improved durability, and you picked up some power from the increased leverage, and lost a minimal amount at the expense of extra reliability, but remain positive in the gain. Hummm.....?

U joints suck. That is one thing I like about the ZXT. Alot harder to break stuff when launching. CV axles, diff is way more secure, big driveshaft. You know the old saying. IF you aren't breaking stuff, you are not going fast enough. It will get better, and after all this time, imagine what it will feel like.

OK you need a different flywheel then, but any V6 one should work, as long as it is a VG30. I assumed since you had the engine, you already had the flywheel.

All I see is a little red x.

My friend has a shop and they put a kit on a Mitsu 3000GT VR4, along with some other upgrades. Not sure if they have squeezed it yet or not. I can check and see.

You need to use the p90 head, and since you are losing bore and stroke over the 2.8, compression will be a little lower. Be careful about boosting it to much and detonation since the pistons in a 2.4 are not designed for turbo duty.

Yeah the stock clutch will hold up ok. Your next upgrade is the 300ZX single turbo, which I what we all used in our 240's with turbo engines way back when. If you have a BW, you can upgrade to the 300ZXTT pressure plate and have the flywheel redrilled to fit at a machine shop, which is what I have done. You have to do a little tweeking inside the bellhousing. The best reason I have for going this route is you can get a 300ZXTT clutch at any nissan dealership, and if you have some one off custom super fly deal, you are sunk if you are not in your home area.

Rotate the pressure plate, there is no difference in the flywheels. The clutches and clutch diameters are the same and interchange with the Zx 2+2 and turbo. That would be 280ZX 2+2 and turbo BTW.

Might affect your traction at the drag strip, and I personally would not be your buddy if you hosed down the lane and I was next. It only takes a little moisture for a turbo car to break tires loose with abandon, and my drag ta's are supposed to aviod water and the water box at all costs. Maybe I am stretching a little, but thought I would mention it.

I don't have that problem Jeff. Are you running synthetic oil in yours? Get the hurst shifter, it is incredible the difference compared to stock. Now maybe I can hit 5th at the dragstrip.

You can get that on a stock turbo engine, but it will require an intercooler, exhaust and cold air intake. On an NA, forget it.

89 mm is the commonly accepted limit to go without sonic testing. If you have stupid money you can look into something for me. I wonder if we could not sleeve the engine with those sleeves the turbo honda guys are using and bore beyond 89 mm without worries.

Well 10 gallons of gas an hour is roughly what, 60 to 70 pounds. It takes one half a pound of fuel per hour to support one horsepower, so it should be good for 120 to 140 horsepower.

I have a bosch I got from JWT and it is just like the factory one, except adjustable. It raises fuel pressure in the same ratio when you add boost too. Nice unit, can't remember what I paid, seems like 100 bucks.

N42

The T5 does not have a better od than the ZX 5 speed which has .745 to the BW .78. I mean it is splitting hairs to me, but just the same. I am fond of the ZX 5 speed because it has nicely spaced gear ratio's with the 3.06 first. I think I have one in my 260, but haven't crawled up under it to check yet. The BW would be a nice way to go if you get an aftermarket shifter like the Hurst I just put in my turbo ZX. You are not ever going to have to worry about missing a gear with that arrangement, and the deep first gear is nice to get you moving. The second to third gear spacing is a little wide and the ZX tranny has a better spacing, but as long as you wind second out pretty tight when racing, no big deal.

Sorry but true.

Well I got he exhaust run on my money pit 260Z over the weekend, and drove the car around a little, and the delta cams rocker arms are quiet and showing no ill wear patterns. I have to say they are recommended at least at this time.

The flat tops in a 2.8 come slightly above deck from the factory. You should be fine Cody, as long and there is no contact between the piston and the head.

You could get the sports option pressure plate from NISMO, and it will easily handle the power. Costs 250 or so for the plate. Get a wilver colored disc, which has some asbestos in it, and that should work fine.

Yeah the shifting difference is incredible. I can't go back to stock now. I will try to find the Mustang one at one of the auto recyclers.

Well I have never heard of someone pitching the crank out of a datsun, although I am sure there is some knucklehead out there who has. The main reason to go to the ARP rod bolt is becuase in the hotrodding Nissans book, they say it is the weak link in the bottom end. I figure if you are going to build an engine and you know you are going to flog it, fix an acknowledged weakness. As for the head studs, I think they would not be a bad idea, but if your block is true, and head true, a stock nissan gasket should work fine. I have a stock nissan one on my turbo car and it has been thoroughly tested.