Lockjaw

I got the Borg Warner T5 in my Zx, and I just put a Hurst Competition plus shifter in it, which is incredible compared to stock. Has anyone else tried one of these? If so, what did you do to cover the hole in the floorpan? My stock boot won't clear everything and bolt down. I am thinking of trying one from a truck or from a mustang or something. I love the shifter, and there is no way I am going back to stock.

Don't hold back, tell us how you really feel. In Alabama, refusing to take the breath alyzer is a 60 day suspension, and the judge will likely belive the officer and accept the DUI charge as legitemite too, which is a 90 day suspension. Fine, and DUI class, perhaps community service. Then you have to have the expensive insurance to get your license back.

They are cheaper here. http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/99/cat99.htm?482 Also, the ARP rod bolts are stronger than the stock one's, I was simply pointing out that Nismo has a stronger main cap bolt.

Use the rod bolts, if you are concerned about the mains, nismo has upgrade main bolts that are stout. Stock head bolts are fine for what you are running boost wise.

No what he probably meant is it starts spooling at 1800. The only way it would spool that fast is if he has a .48 ar turbine housing, and you don't want that one. The 57 trim is a nice wheel and so is the stage III turbine, and they should work pretty well.

If you have a turbo engine, you should be using the turbo automatic trans oil pump. What kind of cam are you running that you need a spring that tight? Lifters that bleed down make a lot of racket, and they will do it at idle and going down the road. There is also the power loss issue, and I am certain you are losing power due to frictional losses alone.

I got 307, with about that much spent on the engine, turbo and JWT fuel injection with bigger injectors, new ford MAF, forged pistons, and expensive machine work. Then figure I paid 2 grand for the first car that came off the freakin tow dolly and totaled itself, the additional 1300 for the replacement car, 2500 in labor and towing charges to replace everything into the next vehicle. 200 for the big cartech fuel pump, 100 for jacobs wires, 100 for eletric fan and thermo control, 640 for replacement turbo, 150 for the Top end wastegate actuator, another 150 to fix the turbo after the USPS dropped it, and about 150 for 3 inch exhaust. Probably add 500 bucks for what I forgot, and that comes to how much? I did recover 4000 from UHaul, and I got my money from the USPS after about 1.5 years.

I know that the MAF on my set-up has to be positioned 18 inches from the turbo in order to eliminate turbulence interfering with the readings. The BOV has to be recirculated or the lag when you shift gears is very noticable. The turbulence issue can be tuned out according to clark at JWT. As for vacuum leaks, I personally don't want unfiltered air getting into my intake system. If you have the engine and harness APEXi has the powerFC which plugs in and is programable. I don't know which method it uses, but I would assume it uses the factory MAF(s). The nice thing about a MAF equipped setup is it compensates for changes, so you do not have to make programming adjustments when you put on a larger exhaust, change cams, turbo's etc.

Turbonetics won't sell to you unless you are a dealer. Try Roadraceengineering.com

I would like to know what the article said. As for the rocker arms, Delta told me that their rocker arms are fine with all the cam manufacturers. I have to admit I was skeptical at first, and I do not know what they do to them exactly, but they look almost silver. I have seen stock rocker arms that have divots and groves in them. SO far my set is working fine on my crower cam. I have not been able to drive the car around beyond up and down the road since the brakes are still not working right. The cam was shining up nice, and I did not have any abnormal wear like eating a lobe.

I have swapped a turbo engine into a non turbo ZX and it is not a bad swap. Evidently there is a ZX that has a steering box conflict with a big turbo.

People either like them or they hate them, there is no in between. I haven't tried them, but I have seen them used in two engines, that were not torque plate honed, and they did not seal up worth a crap. Forged pistons were used though. I have sealed power rings in my turbo engine, and have used them before in the past. Ductile iron plasma moly. The chrome faced ones are touchy about the cylinder being out of round, but you won't wear them out. They are stock replacement. I have the economy one's in my 2.8 I just built and they sealed right up. Hastings rings are supposed to be good too, and I almost tried them on this engine, but the sealed power ones were to cheap to not use.

They are working for me.

His motor is far from cheap. He probably has 2 grand in the headwork and cam.

Properly prepped the stock rods were used in engines developing 650 hp.

Aren't the pistons from the f54 flat tops? Find a ZX engine with a P79 head, and it has flat top pistons in and that will give you the compression you need.

Another board I am on that are DSM guys are having issue's with XS and those Hitachi dual BB turbo's. You know that 16g killer they have. Anyway, seems the have some issue's with XS's poor customer service. That intercooler looks nice though.

There was mention of that on the Z therapy video too. I have both sets. Would like to know myself.

Oh yeah, you do need to check for bent valves.

All you need to do is take it to a machine shop with a cam with a good pin and have them replace it. I have had to do that before. Glad you figured it out, how about getting that sucker going.

That is a big cam. We always toyed with the idea of trying one that big, but always chickened out. The biggest we ever ran was a custom crower that was 280 duration and .500 lift. The guy experimented with it in a hydraulic head, and you know the rest. Sent it back to crower and they fixed it, and it wound up with more duration and slightly less lift. I think it was about 292 duration and .490 lift. Whatever it ended up, that sucker came up on the cam about 3500 and it pulled cleanly right off the tach in the guys car. The funny thing was, it did not sound like he was turning it that tight. We always got accused of having a v8 when running that cam too. Kind of funny. So what are OER carbs? I am not familiar with that one.

You need more money to do what you want to do. You can rebuild your motor, it is the same with the exception of the pistons, which you could replace with turbo one's. You still need all the turbo electronics, manifold etc. Turbocharging is a great way to make power, but it is expensive too. If you had seen James setup, you would know that it is not a cheap way to go.

Yeah I don't like flashy stuff in my engine compartment either. I want people to be confused when they look in there so maybe the miss important stuff, like turbo's.

I don't think you want to step down 3 sizes on the main jet. That is a lot. What emulsion tube you running? Well I have differing theories on carbs too. People always want to move them around on cars, and then start changing jets and stuff. My rule is this. A carb should be jetted for what it can flow, and the AF ratio you want. Once you are there, you chould be able to interchange it on any datsun engine. I could do that with mine. Didn't matter if they were on a stock 2.4, or a maxed out 2.8. What are the spec's on your engine. Just kind of curious.