junglist

You can't get a pair of original JDM ITR Recaro's for under $750...no way. Maybe some crappy chinese knockoffs, but not OEM Honda. When I had my Integra GSR many years ago, I was dying for a set of those and they were selling for like $2,000-$3,000 and they are probably even more rare now.

I agree with that. I got an aftermarket replacement drivers side fender from a guy on craigslist for $50. It fit so poorly and just doesn't have the same contours as the OEM ones that I ended up cutting and fixing the stock one with the Tabco lower repair panel I had sitting around.

It is fine that way, you just lose a little bit more suspension travel with the curved top hat like on Ground Control and Techno Toy coilovers compared to the flat one that Modern Motorsports provides.

The lip on the 9.5" RBR is .5" wider than the 9" wide RBR...so its a 3" lip for the 9.5" wide and 2.5" for the 9" wide.

Welding it back together is the thing to do! Find Austin's (240hoke) write up on cutting the fenders and you will see how he did it, he has pictures in the thread.

Looks good man, I'm going to be doing something similar to mine in the future.

When were these pics taken? 1985? Those weren't taken with a digital camera and they look aged.

I had problems with their site crashing on me when buying their bumpsteer spacers. Send the guy an email and he can direct you where to pay outside of the site. I have a full set of their stainless hardlines and they are very nice.

I'd be interested in one if the cost wasn't too high as most vacuum blocks are pretty cheap. I don't want or need a 6th port.

Sounds like my setup except I have a Craftsman compressor that runs constantly when blasting. I also need to constantly shake the harbor freight pressure tank that holds the media, it gets all caught up in there if I don't do that...it gets quite old after a few minutes but it does the job. I use a harbor freight blasting box too...but there usually is so much dust in the box that I can't actually see what I'm doing and just have to "feel" it.

Isn't everyone on car forums?

That area above the TC rod bucket was rusted to nothing on both sides of my car. I cut and fabbed a replacement piece in a similar shape to the factory piece out of 1/8" thick steel plate. Wirebrushed and cleaned inside that whole area and coated it with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Chassis Black then coated the back of the patch piece with weld-thru primer. It turned out pretty nice and now with undercoating over it, you can't even tell it was ever rusted so bad. I also added bad dog frame sub-connectors and seam-welded in most areas. Fixing that on your car will suck though...should've made your car and frame sound before buying fancy suspension bits. Thats what I've been doing and it sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end. I have a whole basement full of brand new shiny go fast parts and suspension bits, but won't bolt them on until the entire chassis has all rust removed and is restored properly.

Forgot to attach my file. Here it is.

1. I got a set of the 280ZXT adapters from Ross and they are nice. He usually gets back to you in about 2 weeks or so it seems like, I've bought a few things from him now. 2. You have companion flanges on your car. They are what your halfshafts or axles bolt onto on the inside of your rear hubs. I attached a picture of mine and circled it, these are after Modern Motorsports/Ross modified mine showing them on the rear hub. 3. You will have to find someone parting a car or go to a junkyard to get some...but they are a pain to get off. If you find someone selling the 280Z stub axles they likely will have the companion flanges to go with them. 4. I just went to Roostmonkey's thread for the RT mounts and it looks like he has some more available but is currently away from his shop, you might have to wait a few weeks til he gets back to order one. You might as well shoot him an email. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85384-rt-mounts-are-ready-for-shipping/

Thats EMWHYR0HEN's car...here is a link to his profile: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/user/1496-emwhyr0hen/ Personally, my favorites are the black Vildini Z. This white one from Japan. The newest Rocky Auto S30Z with the GTR naca ducts on the hood and finally the Wood Village Z. I also love Mark Rolston's Z.

It was like a dark grey/anthracite/gunmetal. Les at Classic Datsun sells the paint in the original finish at http://classicdatsun.com click on 240z parts and then click on the "misc" tab and you'll see it. That guy really knows his stuff, he's the guy that works on and restores all of Adam Corolla's Datsuns.

I've gotten a couple PM's from people asking for a copy of the .pdf format of this template. Here is a link to the .pdf I made of Zzeal's template in the downloads section: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/83090-ground-control-camber-plate-template-download/ Please don't PM me for copies unless you can't download it from there, thanks.

Nice find.

The 'front' or 17"x9" - 13mm offset RBR wheels for the Z has less lip than the 'rear' 17"x9.5" -19mm offset RBR's...Rudypoocris planned it that way because from the beginning we wanted the rear wheels to have a wider lip than the front wheels. The 17x9 - 13mm RB wheels have a 3" wide lip, but the RBR has more like 2.5". I can tell a big difference in person between the RBR and the RB. The RBR's face is noticably flatter and the spokes don't arc as much from the center to the outside lip. I'll try to take some pictures if I can remember to show the difference. So, I guess you aren't running any of the wheels from this groupbuy then, but I'm glad you got some wheels from him that you like. They are pretty nice wheels for what they are and the price paid. I'd love to have some watanabe's but with everything else I had to and still need to buy to get my car running and on the road the cost of some 'real' wheels like Watanabe's or SSR's or any nice old school JDM wheels 16" or 17" with nice offsets was prohibitive. With the money I've 'saved' by getting these Rota wheels, I'm able to get nicer stuff for the rest of the car...Sparco seats, better turbo parts instead of used parts or knock-off brands, fully adjustable suspension all of which I've bought, but probably couldn't have afforded if I spent $3,000 for wheels instead of $750.

Are you talking about the cap that holds the grease in the CV axle? It has a raised center portion and a spring inside? If so, you can buy them new from courtesyparts.com, just order them from a non-turbo 1984 300ZX...they will fit.

I posted a few pics of one of my Sparco seats in my 240z, its wings are 23.8" or 23.4" and it JUST missed hitting the door. see here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89585-seats-240z-vs-s2000/

Not bad, definitely going to have to do this to my Datsun Roadster this summer.

Looks like a universal wing straight out of the 90's from Erebuni or Kaminari. Just my opinion but I'd avoid ruining your car with that wing. What is up with the rice-tastic stickers on the Z in that pic?

I personally would go with the S2000 seats over the stock Z seats. For stock seats, the S2000 seats actually have pretty good bolsters for both your midsection and your thighs whereas the Z seats have nothing to keep you in the seat going around corners above parking lot speeds. I'm going to be running Sparco seats in my Z and they have been a ***** to mount in the car due to their width. I have 1 Sparco Corsa and 1 Sparco Pro2000 and they are 23.8" and 23.4" wide. They barely fit in the car without rubbing their shoulders over the transmission tunnel and the shoulder not rubbing against the door in its closed position. I included a crappy MS-paint planning thing I did for the way I've mounted them, which may or may not help you mount your S2000 seats since I doubt you'd want to cutout the stock front seat mounts and weld in DOM tubes with thick reinforced spreader plates.

Sounds exciting, I may have to upgrade my MS2 to MSIII just for the SD datalogging. Don't want to drive around with a laptop hooked up and plugged into the cigarette lighter all the time.