junglist

I went to a Dulles Chik-fil-A meet a long time ago, like 4-5 years ago in my 350Z. I haven't been in awhile so I don't know if the turnout is the same or not. Was it a lot of imports or was it mainly American car guys? There is another meetup spot in Manassas at the Burger King at the intersection of the Route 234 Bypass and Route 28...but it seems to be mostly hotrods and muscle cars and a few riceboys, I haven't seen many cool euro or well done japenese rides there. The "scene" (if you can call it that) used to be a lot stronger here around DC from '00-'04 but just isn't the same anymore. I used to have a fully worked out Integra GS-R and I went to a lot of local meets and events. Kinda stopped doing that once I had my 350Z other than going to dyno days and 350Z meets, I started more going to Summit Point and stuff for track days, Hyperfest, etc. There are a few local shops that might still have good meets every once in awhile, like P-Tuning in Manassas, Altered Atmosphere in Gaithersburg, MD, Function Tuned (350Z/G35 shop) in Sterling. I'm sure most of those places would love and appreciate seeing a turbo S30Z.

Looks good, definitely something I'm going to have to do to mine. How many support pieces do you have holding it like the one pictured in the center?

It should be a M6 I believe. I can check & measure tomorrow.

Cool project. I'm excited to watch its progress over the next few months.

Nice diagram. I'm gonna have to combine yours and the ones for running an MSD 6AL for wiring my MS.

Have you checked the j-pipe connector boot or the intake arm to see if they have any rips or tears? Do either of them compress under engine load? You should also check the pop-off/bypass valve on top of the intake manifold to make sure its not stuck open and can open/close on its own. Also, make sure your PCV valve & lines aren't clogged.

Wow, so simple and so awesome.

This is good info. Took me forever to cull all the correct info I needed when ordering new L28ET pistons & rings last year.

Is this via megasquirt? It looks cool...and makes me worry about running a stock tach. How well does the launch control work?

You might as well do a quick refresh of the engine though to make sure its in good shape and give it a better chance of running for awhile and making some better power. -New main/rod bearings (i'm running clevite77) -new performance piston rings (i'm running perfect circle moly rings) -new timing chain/set (only like $100) -new water pump -new head, oil pan & timing cover gaskets (you can get Ishino which makes the OEM nissan for $20-$30 or felpro) -get the block cleaned and honed (not bored or you'll need new pistons) -have the pistons/rods checked and balanced -get a fresh gasket surface on the head -have the head checked and check/replace the valve stem seals. It also might be in your interest to get some ARP hardware like rod bolts, head studs and main bearing studs. I skipped the ARP main bearing studs for my build and went with LD28 Maxima Diesel OEM bolts as they take 20 ft/lbs more torque than the stock bolts. I also got a new set of pistons as mine had some foreign object damage and I bought them at partsdinosaur.com for $200. You should check out this thread for more info and more links to different parts places for rebuild/performance L28 parts: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88757-l28et-rebuild-parts/ H-beam rods and forged pistons are expensive and to take advantage of them you'd probably need extensive headwork machining, lots of ECU tuning and a big turbo to really make the power to truly justify them unless you are planning on going out for lots of track days and want a rock solid reliable engine. Then you'd also probably need a MLS steel head gasket, a baffled oil pan, better water pump, head mods to the #5/#6 cylinder for cooling, and all kinds of stuff that adds up quick.

I've seen a lot of people mount them near where the coil mounts or on the battery box if you've moved the battery to the rear of the car.

I don't see what the problem of the tire size and it being a 4 lug. Sure maybe if he never torques the lugs and is running r-compound slicks all the time, but not checking the torque on lugs consistently and diligently is stupid.

I have the exact same nuts from ATPturbo, I also have their studs in the turbo manifold.

I like 112 Yellow which is actually more of a lime-green. Here is a page with OEM paint codes and a paint swatch: http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html Edit: my 240Z will be 638 Black Metallic...or at least very close to it. Always bet on black.

I also live in Chantilly and have a '72 240Z project. I have a MSII box but the engine isn't in the car and its not running so I'm not yet real familiar with tuning the Megasquirt. I'm more than willing to meet up and help with the other Z stuff though!

They are M6 x 40MM. This is what I run with stainless washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91292A142

For just surface chips and small areas get some glazing putty. Here are a few different ones: http://www.eastwood.com/eurosoft-glazing-putty-1-25.html http://www.eastwood.com/metal-glaze-30oz-pump-bottle.html http://www.eastwood.com/usc-pro-glaze-finishing-putty-24oz-tube.html http://www.eastwood.com/usc-icing-24-oz-tube.html Personally I like the Evercoat products, I have the Evercoat Metal Glaze and the Eurosoft putty and they both sand easily. Your local body shop supply place should stock/sell this stuff and you can always ask the guy at the counter what he recommends.

Here is a website that sells some crazy expensive titanium bolts, nuts, dressup hardware, lug nuts and such for those of you on bigger Porsche/BMW/Audi/Evo/GTR build budgets (lol, only a few people on this site)...its got an appropriate URL: http://www.ballerbolts.com/

Amazon seems to have pretty good prices on Dremel tools.

Your car looks incredible and is so very similar with the murdered out color scheme, blacked out bumper & door handles, the shaved markers & emblems other than small details to what my setup will be (same color, motor, MS setup, wheels, suspension) when I finally get it wrapped up sometime this summer hopefully. Differences being, I have APR carbon fiber mirrors mounted onto the actual doors, I have clear signal lenses, windshield trim will be blacked out, custom vented inspection lids, won't have a rear bumper, I also will probably be getting Ben's classic HID's instead of the black ones. Ben, I can't wait for your classic kits to come out.

Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the shed kit? I know those things can get extremely pricey.

Mine came with a similar top, caused all kinds of surface roof rust and rust around where the hatch meets the roof.

I forgot to add my favorite car blog, even though its not just Japanese car stuff: www.jalopnik.com - love that site. I love Down on the Street, Nice Price or Crack-Pipe, Project Car Hell, all the 24 Hours of Lemons coverage and Save the Enzo's.

Awesome, are you going to post some updated photos on HybridZ after it comes out or are you going to throw another BBQ or something?

The way some things are held onto the Volvo's is weird though, the front corner lamps on 850's are held on with no screws or bolts, just springs and the place they seat breaks easy. The grille is held on by 7 or 8 plastic clips, the battery just has a plastic wedge piece to hold it in. Very very different than what I'm used to with Nissan, Honda or Toyota Japanese cars, the few American cars I've had or even VW's of the same vintage. My '95 T-5R was the first car to have side impact air bags, has a decent trip computer for a car from 1995...it also has the nice power leather/suede heated seats which are still in great shape(the driver's seatback cable just broke on mine so I've gotta replace that cable which was only $45), the winter mode works well in deep snow, although my headlight wipers haven't worked for as long as I've owned the car. Most things I've had to fix that truly broke and weren't worn out due to normal age wear/tear are small nit-picky things like the trunk support struts, some plastic interior trim pieces, the front underbody airpan/splashpan, the front & rear hard brake lines because when I replaced the soft lines the damn copper fittings on the hard lines got completely stripped out even though I was careful as I possibly could be. I love my Volvo though, still wish I had a 350Z though.