junglist

What body parts do you need? Are you looking for metal replacement panels? Rust repair panels? Carbon fiber or fiberglass composite panels? You can get some of the stuff you need from Black Dragon http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ and some from Motorsport Auto: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC1 . Let us know what you are looking for and we can try to help.

I have a set of Gabe's TTT front T/C rods and they are really nice pieces. He's good with communication via e-mail.

Those look really nice. Subscribed, so I can see the pics of your airdam scoops also.

I've refinished a few of these wheels. I've used matte black paint for the centers and I used cherry wood stain that I then coated with clear coat/clear lacquer. They've turned out pretty good, these aren't too hard to refinish if yours doesn't have a lot of dents/scratches/cracks.

Looks good, did you powdercoat those parts or just rattle can them? They look nice, hopefully they stay that way and road debris doesn't tear all that fresh paint off too quick.

I took some pics for you last night. Here is some comparison pics between my RGM RB-Rs and my friends' hyper black RBs. The RBRs are 17"x9.5" with 275/40/17 Azenis and the RBs are 16"x8" with 225/50/16 Azenis...I could be off with the tire height. He rolls the RBs on his '72 240Z without flares and thin spacers. Check out that lip on the RBRs compared to the RBs. Negative offset FTW!

Please post pics when you get them back and when you get them on the car!

Its hard to tell on my RB-Rs. They have a clearcoat covering the whole front face of the wheel including the "polished lip" portion. I included some pics showing different angles of the naked wheel so you can try to judge for yourself. Obviously I havent tryed to chip the paint to test its thickness or durability and while mine now have tires on them, they still haven't seen the street.

I'm bumping this because I think more guys need to check out this post/story/whatever on Speedhunters, its the best post I've seen on that site and they have some truly badass stuff. Its about a Japanese restoration shop in the countryside that specializes in old Nissan's and especially S30 Z's. Tamura-san, the original designer of the S30 Z shows up at the shop to meet the blog writer and even gives him a few of his original drawings! You can't miss that link if you like old Z's and there are tons of pictures.

That is such a cool post on that blog, so in depth. I wish there was a shop like that I could visit stateside.

Very odd, would suck to see someone that offered his convenient kits go by the wayside. I was considering ordering another kit from him.

Looking good, that was a lot of rust. Good to see someone putting a basketcase rust bucket back on the road, thumbs up!

I'm pretty sure the quality is top notch and equivalent if not better to OEM Nissan/Datsun parts. Ask http://www.zccjdm.com/ - he's here on the board and he sells Kameari parts and I'm sure would give you an honest answer.

Surprising that his ebay page doesn't still exist, but it doesn't. I bought his front timing cover kit and was pretty happy with it. CourtesyParts used to carry a bunch of his stuff, you should ask them if they can still get in touch with him. So he hasn't answered emails that you've sent to him from the contact on his page? http://www.zcarcreations.com/

I saw this a few months ago and bought 2 sets!

Here is a great writeup with some good info, I suggest reading it: http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152417

I was under the impression that the 350Z clutches were a 250mm diameter. Is that not the case?

Good luck to that seller for trying to sell at that price. His ad is horrible with misspellings and bad grammar. He also seems to be attempting to describe the car to the "common" buyer and not a collector and most collectors wouldn't be interested in a modified car in most cases anyway, I guess. Especially with custom "eagles pin striping" and the "modern" wheels he has which look straight off of a 1980's domestic dragstrip. It looks like he has some nice parts, but other than the "Gleason Torsen" diff, nothing too special. He doesn't even mention who built his motor, if its stroked and or punched out or the mileage on the engine. Also, the car couldn't have 108,000 miles on the odometer; it would say 08000. So, does it have 108k on the chassis? If people are barely getting $25,000-$30,000 for mint condition dead stock series 1 240Z's with under 50k on it, no chance this car sells for anywhere near $25k. I'm sick of seeing people posting their car for sale on ebay and craigslist with poor descriptions, bad spelling and grammar (is spellcheck that hard? Open Word and paste your text in there, spellcheck it then paste back into craigslist), poorly lit or blurry pictures (I know on craigslist that the pics are small, but provide a link to somewhere with big pics), and worst of all people that exaggerate their car to try to upsell it. Everyone knows a 240Z who's only suspension work is bolt-on stuff like Tokico HP's, some coilover sleeves, strut bars and a big sway bar is not going handle like any Porsche 911 or outhandle it unless it is completely clapped out. I feel like a hater for hating on this guy's car because it really doesn't look bad and it looks like he put some nice work into it, I'm just hating on his for sale ad.

I'll suggest Hellaflush: http://fatlace.com/hellaflush/ I don't always think the cars posted there are functional, but damn are there some good looking rides posted with some sweet rims. Some are actually probably fast too.

The "IP.Board" theme is so much nicer than the new default one with the red. It would be nice if it had the HybridZ logo instead of the IPBboard logo though. Or maybe just change the default theme to the blue?

On The Outlaw Brakes site there is some info and pics on what he does to adapt the rear 240SX brake lines. http://www.outlawbrakes.com/brakes.html I don't know if he still sells brake stuff.

Very nice cage. Piper does amazing work. The Franken M3 they built still amazes me: http://www.pipermotorsport.com/moredetail.asp?id=146&ret=cars.asp

I re-used my rods, cleaned them up like crazy, new Clevite bearings and ARP rod bolts. When I had my new pistons pressed onto the used rods at the machine shop I had them balance the rods and pistons, deburr them, check the new bearings fitment and press in the ARP hardware. I didn't buy a rebuild "kit". I sourced everything for the best prices from many different places: -Crank & rod bearings from RockAuto -Perfect Circle (clevite) piston rings from ebay -new cast dished pistons from PartsDinosaur.com -ARP head studs & rod bolts from SummitRacing -Maxima diesel main bolts from Courtesyparts -all gaskets locally -new timing chain kit from ebay -oil pump gasket & springs from MSA -hardware for the oil pan & valve cover from McMaster Carr -hardware for the timing cover from http://www.zcarcreations.com/ -CSR electric water pump used from someone on HybridZ. I think total for all of the above excluding the electric water pump I paid about $900-$950 or so, not including the machine shop work. For the machine shop I took them my P90A head and had them check it for any problems and mill both the bottom and the intake/exhaust side for gasket surfaces. The machine shop also pressed on my pistons to my rods and balanced them each. For that work it cost me $155. I didn't take the block or crank to the machine shop. I checked the crank myself (it was within FSM specs) and cleaned it. I cleaned and slightly deburred the inside of the block myself. The cylinders were in good shape with factory hone marks still visible so I checked the bores and they were within spec. Bought & used a Flex-Hone for $50 and honed the block myself. I cleaned the deck and sanded it for a gasket surface starting with 320grit and moving up to 2500grit to a near mirror shine that was dead flat.