blue72

That's not a bad outcome. I like the fact that it cleans them up as well as hiding most of the minor imperfections and curb rash.

Yeah, flat tops + N47 = 10.0:1 - 10.5:1 compression ratio. For comparison, stock is 8.8:1

The bottle isn't secured? I've broken a regulator and it's quite exciting. Or is it the cheap welding helmet? I've got the same model and its a pain to get it working some times.

Looks like an NP203 full time t-case to me (differential mounted behind the range box). They can be converted to part time if you want. Any way you look at it though, that's a good deal for what you pulled.

Okay, it's not a movie per se, but there is a nice red 240Z in the latest episode of Top Gear. The boys are participating in a historic car rally on the island of Mallorca (Majorca), and there are at least three shots of it. One of them is a good side shot of it leaving the starting line with that distinctive L6 sound. Also spotted recently, Top Gear 1989 season, Episode 2 (Old Format) William Woolard is in California talking about alternative fuel technologies, but I couldn't help noticing a nice silver 240Z parked by the curb in a panning shot showing traffic flow down a busy street in Newport Beach.

That's about what happened to mine. I was driving on a mountain road in the dark at sub-zero temperatures when first my running lights and later my headlights went out with me 40+ miles from civilization. I later traced it back to the switch and found that badly worn contacts caused a short circuit which overloaded the system and melted the solder that held the wires to the switch itself. Just took some cleaning, a few parts from a spare stalk I grabbed in a j/y, and some soldering to fix it. I haven't had a problem since.

Oxi! Que coisa horrível á acontecer. Cade a vídeo? Bem, já tem aqui. Wow, I haven't been following F1 much this year, but it sounds like a nasty wreck. Hope he pulls through okay. I secretly root for the Brasileiros while watching the BBC broadcasters as they root for Hamilton.

Just to set something straight, the 260Z manifolds aren't any bigger, in fact they're exactly the same inner diameters at both the carb and head sides. They are cast a little different though, in regards to airflow through them.

My dad had a stack of good used tranny coolers, and I am using one as an engine oil cooler on my Suburban. I made sure to select a stacked plate cooler with sufficiently large input and output holes. I'm running 1/2" flexible cooler line into appropriately sized barb adapters because I didn't want the cooler itself to be a restriction and possibly raise the oil pressure or put more strain on the oil pump to push it through a smaller orifice. At least that's my hypothetical thinking on the subject.

I've always used a really large pair of channel lock pliers to push the piston back into the caliper.

Whoops, I guess I should explain why mine is warped in the first place before anyone gets the wrong idea. I purchased my full dash cover last year through MSA and did a test fit over my factory dash. It seemed to fit well enough, but I was dissatisfied with a few things. It didn't extend completely down the sides where the doors open, it didn't completely cover the center of the dash (on the lower side, close to the center console) and the plastic was a different shade compared to the glovebox. I left it hanging out, just loosely fitted, while I tried to make up my mind about whether to glue it down or not. On the first hot, sunny day it began to warp. Now I'm going to take it off, buy a sun shade to put in the window, and live with the two small cracks in my original dash. If I had actually glued it in place properly I'm sure it would still look fine (aside from the above mentioned items).

I haven't had your problem, but my full dashcap is already wavy and looks horrible. I haven't even had it on the car for a year yet. Worst money I've spent yet on my Z.

Like getting ready to install the transmission only to realize that you forgot to put the sandwich plate on before the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate? Yeah, I hate stuff like that.

Very nice indeed. I hadn't yet seen one in blue.

Backfire? There's not supposed to be a rubber plug there. That's where the PCV valve is supposed to be located (well, on closer inspection it looks like yours might be theaded into the hole behind it). Causes for it not starting could be any number of things. Is the timing set correctly?

Datsun color code 072 over light gray primer.

Gaaa! The horror! Such a sad demise.

Congratulations! I rode home in a VW Bus myself. No bunjee jumping as an infant though, so now I feel like I missed out on something.

Cast iron, almost completely flat on the bottom. The combustion or "swirl" chamber is in the piston so they would have to be machined to clear larger valves too. Then you'd need to install new shrink fit cast iron valve inserts. I haven't seen measurements of the intake ports, but it might be a good idea to port the cast iron head to flow the potential of the much, much larger valves you installed as well. The LD intake and exhaust valve diameters are 39 and 32mm respectively. By the looks of things the valves point straight up and down and are directly underneath the camshaft. LD28 valves are 116.83-117.27mm long on the intake side and 117.03-117.47mm long on the exhaust side. Closest length L28 valves are N42/N47 style, but they are still way too short at 114.9-115.2mm intake and 115.7-116.0mm exhaust.

Yeah, but it'll still take a while before they're reliably in mass production. Until then we're relying on CFL's. 4 to take the conversation in a direction it was never meant to approach in the first place, and drone on about complementary topics

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SGS01/10-2631

I use non hardening sealer on both sides of the gasket when installing anything that water passes through. I bought a tube of Permatex 2B form-a-gasket and it seems to be doing its job well.

Here's mine. I'm returning mine to the stock color. In my case it is Datsun color code 072 metallic (poly) acrylic enamel. I had both 903 and 115 mixed up in small batches and they were each much lighter than the original paint that was still on my car.

I haven't found any definitive proof yet either. I have a few photos of the LD20T, but only one low res photo of a stock looking LD28T. According to the websites that mention turbo L series diesels there are LD28, LD28Td and LD28Ti versions of this motor. These are the rough specs I've found for the three: LD28 = 93 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 148lbft torque @ 2000 rpm LD28Td = 118 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 198lbft torque @ 2000 rpm LD28Tdi = 124 horsepower @ 4400 rpm, 210lbft torque @ 2000 rpm They're pretty much the same on all the sites they're listed on, but never any accompanying photos. Supposedly they came in some Laurels or possibly Patrols. It is entirely possible that those are just rumors or errors too. Could be that others have misidentified LD20T or RD28T motors. -EDIT- I've checked through some very thorough Japanese Laurel specific websites and no mention of LD28T there either. Patrols apparently came with RD28T's. -EDIT- Either way, I dig your conversion. What a coincidence that I happened to be driving my Z this afternoon, you drove by on the same road and I got to check it out in person. I didn't even realize this thread existed here before this evening.