Jump to content
HybridZ

blue72

Members
  • Posts

    661
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by blue72

  1. Straight cut gears? I bet that's pretty noisy.
  2. It would have been nice if they'd included the VIN then I could compare it against the registry. http://www.geocities.jp/ps30diy/genzon/kekka.html Still, very rare and desireable.
  3. First commentator: Eita. Second commentator: Eita! First commentator: Eita! Third commentator: Eieeeta. Second commentator: Eita. First Commentator: Eita.
  4. Stock L28T pistons and L28 N/A dished pistons are both 10.9cc.
  5. It depends on how much you're planning on replacing down the road. Purchasing interior pieces, small trim pieces, rubber pieces, heating and cooling system components, etc... because you bought a shell can add up to quite a bit of money. We're lucky to live on the west coast, so I'd say find a mostly complete, minimal rust car and you'll have a great starting point for future modifications that shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.
  6. Ah, I see it now. The $2500 - $3000 'drag/racing' forged rod and cast piston combination Kameari sells. Looks like a good long rod combo, and the pistons only stick out .1mm above the deck. Lotsa dough though. Bore and stroke are what combine to give displacement. Installing longer rods does not increase displacement. No matter how long the rod is it is still being swung on the same crankshaft. Do you have a target rod/stroke ratio in mind?
  7. Stock 240Z 9mm bolt style rods weigh 710-711 grams. I'd need to clear off the press and visit the storage unit to get a measurement of L28 rod weight. I know there has been speculation on using 140mm long LD28 rods, but I can't remember if that would have encroached into the ring area too much. Musing at random to no one in particular: Let's see, with the top of the piston even with a standard L28 deck, a 140mm rod stroker crank setup would leave 26.35mm as the pin height. Same scenario using L24 rods leaves 33.35mm as the piston pin height.
  8. Who is using 138mm rods, from what vehicle or aftermarket manufacturer did they get them, and in combination with what piston and crankshaft are they being used? I haven't heard of this one yet.
  9. Ah yes, the infamous witch rods, secret of all high power engine builders. Here's a little something to get you started: http://www2.zhome.com:81/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html http://geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm Not that the search feature here on this site doesn't work equally as well.
  10. Anyone else like monochromatic patina and junkyards as much as I do? Here are some I took a few months ago while scavenging. Haven't played with the dodge or burn tools yet. I have some good ones that I took on film years ago, but I seem to have hidden them from myself accidentally.
  11. Our shop floor was bare concrete. Whenever it needed a good cleaning we used powdered laundry detergent and scrubbed it with a floor broom that had the bristles cut short. After that we rinsed it with water.
  12. 3 active, 3 semi-active for the Z 1 for the 510 2 for the Suburban 3 for 3-D / work I'm registered on more, I just can't think of them right now.
  13. As far as transmissions goes, I'd start looking into 300ZX trans adapter setups if you want to stick with a manual gearbox. Here's a link to get you started: http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_L-MOTOR++300ZX+TRANS+KIT Like they said, 3.2L is pretty ambitious. I'd start doing some research on the forums here about sonic testing and N42 vs. F54 blocks. You might have to check a few blocks before you find one with cylinder walls thick enough for the kind of bore you want to achieve, or as woldson pointed out, sleeves. The path to 3.0 or 3.1 liter turbo is a long one filled with lots of research. I've been gathering parts and reading every resource I can get my hands on for a while now and I don't even own the car my turbo stroker motor is one day going to go into yet.
  14. I got the same e-mail earlier this week and I am excited. I just renewed my subscription and I hope there isn't any sort of lapse.
  15. He could be reading it wrong. I've got two E30 flywheels (for sale, shameless plug) sitting 20' from me. Aside from JAPAN E30, one also has W 276A stamped on it and an M as well as a 5 cast into it. Ask him for some good quality photos if you can.
  16. Best bet would be any early style square port gasket. The N42 head, though it had square exhaust ports still came on FI equipped cars. I'd be inclined to think that one meant for an E88 or E31 would be perfect. It'll have the square ports, but won't have holes for FI mounting, only the carb mount holes.
  17. It looks a little faded, but I bet you could really get it to shine with some elbow grease. Very nice find indeed.
  18. Where did it blow out, on the intake or exhaust side? Are the exhaust and intake manifolds flat? Did you apply any form of sealer? How does the mating surface on the head look? It may not be a problem with the gasket.
  19. I've got an MSA gasket on my P79 w/ SU carbs. All I had to do was mark and drill the holes needed for mounting the intake manifolds.
  20. Yes, be very careful around the aluminum. I've removed the remains of a broken exhaust bolt from a P79 head before. The drill has to be exactly centered and it would be best to work up to the final size. I went very carefully with a battery powered hand drill and eventually worked the appropriately sized tap down through the hole removing the last of the thread pieces. If you don't get it right, then it'll be time for the helicoil. I've got one broken in an N42 that I'm going to be removing with a drill press next. I've also removed broken head bolts from a block by quickly welding on a nut to the bit that extended above the surface of the block. The combination of heat and the torque from a wrench did the trick, just as long as the weld was solid.
  21. I figured as much, just joshin' with you. So it sounds like you've got the trans apart at the moment. If you do it'd be the best time to find out what the gear ratios are by counting the teeth and doing some calculations. From my research there are at least two Z specific FS5C71-B transmissions (excluding nissan comp gearsets), three FS5W71-B transmissions and the 300ZX FS5W71C transmission as well as multiples of each from other Nissan applications. If it was mixed and matched it could contain bits from a 200SX, 300ZX, 810, etc... I'm in the same boat as you though, I've only really ever heard of bellhousing swaps, not many swaps with the entire gearset. There are a few guys over at ratsun.net that have done some side by side comparisions of a few transmissions, and you might enjoy the reading here: http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=8978
  22. I'm assuming its a 5-speed trans? The numbers stamped or cast into the outside of the case don't mean anything AFIK. Try this link: http://geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Scroll down to the 5-speed identification section. Oh, and there was no such thing as a '78 280ZX.
  23. Ha ha. My brother in law showed me that forum on Monday.
  24. Looks great so far. I did the same basic thing after POR-15 coating my floors. I've got one layer of B-Quiet on the floors, inside the doors and on the wheelwells/strut towers.
×
×
  • Create New...