Nismo280zEd

LMAO I guess you haven't bought a new Z part lately or a 240sx part? 240sx are worth like twice or more what Z's are now every since fast and furious. I don't think money is really the problem here.

if i remember right... advancing will give more lower end power and retarding will give you topend power. I think that's right. It's still early for me i'm not fully awake yet. -Ed

2650 280z 2+2 1978 full tank of gas

the cast aluminum can't weight that much.

maybe you could weld up some gussets like olie showed on the inside of the fender, If you have coil overs which i think you do on that car, then you should have plenty of room. Sh!t... just tube the front... that'd be sweet.

Mike, Is there any room to shorten the exahust manifold? Are you using the stock cast iron piece or a tubed one? Maybe you could shorten it like an inch and angle it forward, like toward the radiator, that might wedge it just enough infront of the strut tower? YOu have some pics maybe i could help more then? -Ed

mike.. weld up an angled flange on the tubo inlet from the header to rock the turbo away from the strut tower... that should give ya enough clearance. -Ed

Found these over on the Houston240sx website, they look like they will fit the Z as well if I remember right. http://www.tougefactory.com/shop/index.php?shop=1&cat=70 sweet lookn' wheels at a sweet price -Ed

17x8 with +12 it'll be tight but I believe it will fit, although i thought with 8" wheels you need zero offset. I'd measure it out if i were you. Either way you'll prolly have to roll the flares. -Ed

I just picked up an S14 the other day, if either one of you guys have the front fascia/ air dam and or rear bumper, I'd be interested, as well as the front hubs if 5 lug. Let me know. -Ed

just want to bump this thread as i'm trying to get the brackets machined to do this conversion.

Well i still don't have this problem fixed and i have a 400$+ alarm sitting in my apartment waiting to be installed. ZCARNUT Since we seem to agree my wiring to the alt is correct, maybe it's the fuse box... Also.. I'd like to talk to you a little bit about my electrical system in my car as i'm sure there are many things that can be improved. Do you have autocad? I might be able to find the time to draw up how the car is wired right now on cad so it's easy to view and trace. -Ed

black dragon auto formerly victoria british carries them and the nut, as well as MSA and o'rielly's can get the sender but not the nut. -Ed

take it to a paint shop, they can color match it, or cheaper solution... look up the sunburst yellow paint code and give you that.. prolly a difference of around 50 bucks between the two options. but the sunburst yellow color prolly won't match unless it has been painted less than a year ago. -Ed

if you swap the two wires "L" and "S" respectively, then it doesn't charge, so i've found out by accident. So I'm guessing the problem lies in the wiring still? ...i really thought we were on to something -Ed

Ok, so i know the 200sx 300zx and maxima all have the VG30E engine, as well as the altima I believe, so my question. Will the camshafts made for the 300zx VG30E engine... work in the maxima VG30E engine?

I have a kill switch but that doesn't solve my problem, yes that will allow the alarm to work, but the alarm also has remote start, which i plan to use in winter, plus it's just a cool feature. I don't want to start my car on battery only cause when i go to work that early, i'll prolly forget to flip the alt kill switch. Zcar nut, You mentioned it has to go through a switched 12 volt source, this might be the problem. The whole car has been rewired except for the tailights basically, my car does not use the ignition switch, as the key thing happened to me and i don't have the money to buy all new locks currently, so i have a series of switches and a push button starter. the main output post goes through an 8ga wire to the 80a fuse to the pos battery terminal. The sensing wires you spoke of... located on the side of my alt, yes it's basically the same as the 90a version, from it mounted in the car there is a top and bottom prong. the TOP prong is 12+ input from my fuse box set for power in ACCESORY for now. the Bottom prong loops back into the 8ga output wire without a switch. So if i understand you correctly, I need to rewired the BOTTOM wire so that it has power for ON only? as it would not be needed for ACESSORY? So once again, output goes to 8ga wire through 80a fuse in the car, then back to the battery. there is an 8ga wire grounded to the back of the alt and the car body. the TOP wire of the two prongs is a 12+ source from the fuse box power in ACCESORY and the BOTTOM wire goes back into the 8ga output wire without a switch. Can I get verification before i cut and splice? -Ed

I currently use Devilbis and Binks. Devilbis HVLP for color/clear budgetting for another HVLP for just clear several Binks old school guns for primer and heavier paints (syphon feeds) -Ed

yes your right.. it's not volatage draw technically speaking, it is current draw causing a voltage drop from the battery over time. Yes, I'm well aware the alternator already has diodes in it for this purpose, however it's out of 7 alternators that i've had 1 had diodes that actually worked on it. So In my logicall thinking, I thought it would be better to just wire it on the output line from the alternator to the battery. I said 80amps even though the alternator is rated for 125amp. I've run an 80 amp fuse inline from the output post for 3 years now and it's never blown, or even remotly appeared to be near full potential. I'm simply trying to stop the "current draw" from the alternator on the car. It's a 95 DOHC rathed at 125amp wired up the exact same as the maxima diagramns. Yes i'm positive it's the alternator as i have taken every single wire off the terminal block one by one till it no longer had a draw. Previously i rand a large solenoid inline on the alt and this worked, however at the cost of 90 dollars and it only holding up to the elements for about a year, I'm no so sure it was a great cost, plus I thought the diodes would serve a more permanent solution to the problem. Yes I looked into using other diodes from alt, but it seems like all the imports use a series of three diodes at a replacement cost higher than i bought the alt for. Basically... I got a really nice alarm for my car, but can't wire it up cause i can't leave the battery connected right now. I would like to solve this problem before i relocate to the next apartment complex 12 days. -Ed As an electrical engineer zcarnut, maybe you can help me solve this problem.

not sure if it's the exact same, it is a nissan comp cam, gotta check the markings on it to see which one it is. -Ed

that header looks pretty nice even for being used. I"m curious as to how low it hangs when bolted up. I've run two MSA headers 3-2-1 the one i have now is their "thick flange" header, but i had to take 2" out of the 2 pipe collector to shorten it up as it draged the ground. Now it sits about the same height as the oil pan, maybe a little higher. Let me know or if you have any pics of it installed from below. And yes you said it... to each is his own. I'm just not a fan of tababe mufflers, I feel that companies that dabble their hands in many fields loose certain quality in others, but that is just my opinion. And as you said to each is his own and everybody likes a different sound. Good luck with the project and i'm curious as to the header height. -Ed

I've had two friends have the same thing happen. One of them was in a civic, and the damn antlers went through the door into the car and stabed my friend!! They are fine, but that was seriously scary.

I thought i'd post this maybe somebody has some sources i'm not aware of. I'm looking for some diodes that can handle 80 amp continous either alone or combined with 2 or the same, etc. Anyway, it needs to be rated for 15 volts as well. I'm going to solder them inline on my alt to stop the voltage draw it has. Everything I can find is for 120 volt which when you do the math doesn't work out for the appropriate amps at 12-15 volts. Any help would be great as i'm kinda following blind sheep on this one hoping that it works. -Ed

have only used the waterborne paints on models thus far, not anything large scale. I thought it took longer to cure to me though. But then again it was just a 1/24 model. -Ed