Nismo280zEd

Ok, so I've been having this problem... http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31193&p=210763#p210763 it's been posted on here and posted on MSEFI boards. I can't seem to get MS to see the damn signal from the Sensor. Working on the car in 100+ heat and I'm about ready to destroy the board out of frustration. I've run out of things to try, any ideas are welcome. If I can send my board to somebody for inspection, that is an option too. I have no problems taking pictures of components if it would help. Let me know guys. Getting desperate, really wanted this running for Father's Day.

I did get the setup to work however it seems the pickup is rather sensitive in the dizzy and mine went out. To get another one was 100+ so I scraped the setup all together. My Z has been sitting since then. Hoping to resurrect her this summer. EDIT... re-read the thread and seems a couple other have working setups, I just didn't seem to have good repeatable results.

To make mine look better I shaved the parking lights off the sides, and welded the headlight buckets to the fenders. Makes a big difference, the car doesn't look as long anymore. I'm also going to graph in 240z turn signals into the MSA dam on the front.

I did two logs of cranking, show no signal at all for rpm stays 0 the entire time. Checked the jumpers on the board for VR input. I have VRIN-TachSelect and Vroutinv-Tsel So it looks good according to the manual. I tried adjusting the pots back till i heard them click, tried cranking, still no signal, tried turning them while cranking I'm getting nothing. Any ideas or do I need to go buy a new probe.

Update, got confirmation that the sensor is wired correctly, but sense I'm missing my probe unable to check if functioning properly. I'm getting no spark currently. -Ed

Ok, Running 029y4 code on a porsche 911 3.2L motor trying to do a wasted spark with 6 COP and 6 coil drivers. Still having a reset problem as soon as I crank the car, but it's only one reset when I first turn the key. I ran a wire directly from the battery via fuse to MS. So I think it'll be ok. Doesn't seem to be changing settings in MS. Setting wise, using generic wheel setting running a 60-2 wheel sensor is off the 11th tooth using wheel settings I have... trig a 1 return a 9 trig B 21 return B 29 trig C 41 return C 49 used the spreadsheet in the manual and just plug and chugged. MS is in car all readings working it seems. One problem, don't know if I'm getting signal from the VR sensor on the crank. My rpm does no fluctuate while cranking. My car got broken into last thursday so I no longer have my oscilliscope probe to test signal from the senor. It's a three wire VR sensor, one is signal, one is shielded ground and the other is ground I believe. (not 100% on this) Anybody have any ideas on how I can test the signal from the sensor without my scope? I'm also running calculated VE and spark tables based on what MS created for tq and hp numbers. Any help would be appreciated. -Ed I know it's not a Z but it is a 6 cylinder and I could use some help. Porsche guys seem to turn their nose up at MS.

while not a direct bolt in, you can get larger cores capable of more BTU's of heat also.

wow, they actually seem pretty bright. Do they show up as well during the day? Did you have to add any resistors inline with the LED strip so that the blinker speed wasn't affected from OEM? -Ed

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15 Don't know if you have heard of powered by max but they have some sick steering angle kits. Something to look at perhaps, my friend has this kit on his s14 and I'm about to install it on mine, it's a ton of angle.

How did I miss this thread? Awesome concept. Much better than the 370z

Interesting thread and awesome program! What would happen if you tappered the runners... say your using 1 5/8" runners... what if you used 1 5/8" at the head and 1 3/4" at the plenum and increased the overall volume of the plenum. My logic here.... tappering the runners should naturally create vacumn and enlarging the plenum volume would decrease the velocity of the air coming in. I'm thinking that this would maybe make the runners suck the air in more evenly than the air being slammed into the runners ? I really don't know just curious on this one. -Ed Either way... props on crunching the numbers!

I myself have dealt with TEP and would never buy from them again. I originally bought my triple webers from them and payed top dollars for the complete kit. Everything needed to bolt up or so was advertised. It was supposed to be bolt on and go. After half a year of modifying things and changing jets the car ran decent. When they sent it to me the manifold was hitting the linkages so I couldn't even open the carbs up. I have the thread posted on here from back in the day. They are complete @sses to deal with when something goes wrong. Thier attitude was they just didn't care, you already paid them so "tough $hit". That's just not the kind of place I like to do business with. I've learned my lesson. I guess it's like Ebay... sometimes you get a sweet deal, other times you get screwed. -Ed

I'm confused here... what is your goal? A good running car or a sleeper? If you put the intercooler behind the radiator you are effectively feeding HOT air through the intercooler pretty much making it pointless to even have one IMO. If your worried about people seeing it... angle the rad and put the IC on the bottom and duct it. Or... paint it like others do. -confused- -Ed

When the list gets started add my name. I rolled/pulled mine on my 240sx with exhaust tubing and a baseball bat, but it's still a little lumpy, I'd like to finish it off. BTW... trick to no cracking is the heat gun. Done three cars only cracked the paint the first time. You have to get it quite warm hot actually.

If parker says it's good enough for 250psi without a clamp, it's good enough for me. They've been doing fitting for a long time lol.

Yeah I think I'm going to have to give my machine shop guy a template and have one made it looks like. I just thought there were companies that made the virgin flanges, guess I was wrong. -Ed

Sounds like you guys like the product, I'll start looking into a local distributor for myself. -Ed

Was curious to see if anybody was running these? http://www.parker.com/literature/Hose%20Products%20Division/4281%20B1.pdf I was thinking about converting the Z over, more cost effective and longer life than hose from the local parts place. -Ed

thanks for posting the timing map. I'm going to run a very similar setup, factory T3 on my F54 block with N/A internals. -Ed

interesting. So your having a problem with too much sensitivity. I might have to try this out. I was afraid it would not be sensitive enough and hear the faint knock that I would not be able to hear in car. -Ed

I can understand datalogging oil pres at the track. I was thinking more for daily usage. Good luck on your quest for gauge glory. -Ed

I run a nissan racing cam on my N/A setup, took longer to tune but it ildes pretty dang smooth. Well did, till I blew a piston ring lol. -Ed

sorry to bump this old thread but I'm curious as to results http://www.viatrack.ca/ read that site and the posts here and would like to know how well the knocksense works or if it is even needed for MS -Ed

While I think this is pretty cool I just don't understand the practical side of it? If your driving your car, you can easily read the oil pressure gauge that is in the car, if your tunning you don't need to know what oil pressure is to adjust timing or fuel. I guess this is a just cause I can mod? -Ed

So I enjoy doing things the hard way sometimes. I want to make a tubular header for my turbo. Yeah... because I can... purely for no other reason. However I'm having trouble tracking down somebody that sells just the exhaust flange. I have a header on the car now, but I'm not too enthused at hacking it up just to create a project DIY turbo header. I just want to practice fitting pipe and welding and figured this would be a great project. Not looking for a kit, just an exhaust flange from the head. -Ed