Nismo280zEd

I apologize if my question is rather newbish, but I'm trying take in as much knowledge as I can for my turbo build. I just recently picked up a stock T3 turbo from a zx and intend to install in my 280z. I like running E85 and live close enough to a station that I can justify the drive to fill up with it. So what I take from your post... is If I run stock L28E compression 78 280z internals, running E85, and the stock T3 turbo... I can actually run say 10-12psi safely with a good tune in megasquirt?!? I was under the impression the highest I could go was 5-7psi on stock compression so adding the ethanol I could up my psi without risk? I should also mention I will be running an intercooler and eventually meth injection. So does this mean you can run a highlift cam on a turbo motor also? -Ed

Ahh your right... forgot about the meth injection. Thanks for the temp references. So essentially you would have to eliminate 400 degrees roughly to get it even close to diesel temps? Even though the temp stays the same with different pressures, the turbo is still doing more work at 25psi than at 10psi. Like your motor does more work at 9000rpm than it does at 3000rpm.

I don't think that's going to work but good luck. My 240sx tank is under the back seat, different contour than the back of the z. Be prepared for a ton of fitment. Atleast the tank fill is on the same side.

Ok... A mathematician, a physicist, and an engineer are asked to find the volume of a little red ball. The mathematician does some measurements finding the surface area and using some calculus to come up with the volume. The physicist thinking he has a simpler method fills a graduated cylinder with water and measures the water displacement and comes up with the volume. The engineer looks at the little red ball and starts going through his books until he comes across his Red Ball Table and looks up the volume. well I thought it was quite funny.

I watched Phil's latest video... he was running that sucker at 25psi. I think 10-15 should show no problems. Also, Phil was running rich top end, creating more heat, and if his timing was agressive up there... even more heat. A good tune and slightly less timing might yield a much longer life.

I'm feeling kinda lazy and don't really want to look up the enthalpy for our E10 gas blend and Diesel to determine the theoretical Kelvin they both exothermically produce at the moment, maybe later on in the weekend. However I would be curious as to the temps difference. I would also be curious to know if people experiencing "premature rebuilds" are using turbo blankets and wrapping the exhaust manifolds. It would also be interesting to see the temp difference between a tubular header as opposed to the cast headers at the turbo inlet. Also curious if coatings on the header and or turbo would help lower any of the temperatures as well. Just bored and this has my attention this evening. -Ed

Is there anybody that makes a bearing of slightly more resilant material that will withstand the hotter temps produced by running on gas motors opposed to diesel? Seems like the turbo is not the problem, just heat, which with engineering and a little creativity could possibly be cured? I know we have several machinists on the site, maybe upgrading the material used to rebuild the holsets would lead to greater longevity? -Ed

Actually I didn't want the Z at first. It was my fathers car and the way he is with things I felt the car would never really be mine. I wanted a Volkswagen beattle instead because it was rearwheel drive, dirt cheap, and plentiful. Fortunatley for me my father hated this idea. The Z was side swipped while he was driving home one day. So my dad got another car and it sat in the garage. He told me if I fixed it, I could have it. So at 14 I started working on it everyday. Little did I know this would start a trend in my life. I finally got it running the day the twin towers came tumbling down. I'll never forget that day as long as I live. Such sadness, confusion and excitement all in the same day. Once she ran though, I was hooked, until she broke. It's very much been a love hate relationship between us. Now she sits on stands at my parents house again, waiting for the turbo I just bought and some frame rails and a little wiring.

This part scares me as well, lots of photos before complete disassembly I'm hoping will aid in the process. Thanks for the information. I need to rebuild my 240sx 5spd aswell, syncro's are about toast. -Ed

Damn... thanks Olie... It is mounted to the outer that drives the A/C. It's an experiment to see how well it holds up. I really like the setups Derek is selling, in the future I might go that route, or just machine the flywheel and hide all of it. Olie... what have you replaced it with? -Ed

Wooo bravo!

Found this site tonight. http://www.importdrivetrain.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=526 Synchro kits for 60 bucks and bearings for 60 bucks for the 5spd 280z Having never rebuilt the Z transmission before... Is a homemechanic able to replace the bearings or are they all pressed on and have to be installed at a machine shop? -Ed

wheel from DIYautotune.com VR sensor is from an 89 911 porsche. We are doing megasquirt on my fathers 911 as well and I scored two spare VR sensors form the project. I have not had time to mock up a bracket and test with a scope yet, but I'm sure it will work fine as it used to count many more teeth and more quickly on the 911. As far as slipage, are we talking like 5 degrees or? -Ed

Yeah I was actually thinking about that myself. cutting some away to get to the bolt. Locktite has not yet been applied, still mocking everything up. When it's go time I'll put some on.

Well I was holding out for a long time trying to find the best way to mount this thing, I finally bit the bullet went to the machine shop and had my guy do the hard work. It came out beautifully, then Derek informed me he had completed is mounting kit with sensor mount and wheels lol. Oh well. This is how tight the tolerances where, he had .040" to play with for alignment of the screws, he also indexed them for me. I know the screws are long in that pic, I have shorter ones just haven't installed them yet. Won't be running the A/C anytime soon. Here it is all painted up and mounted. now to make the sensor mount.

From my experience battling rust. They best way I can describe it is it's like cancer. You need to get rid of it ALL or you risk it coming back. I've tried every rust converter/concealer under the sun and what works the best is sweat, blood, and metal. I'm at the same point your at, fixing rust on my 2+2 rails (78) and finding rust underneath previous repairs I've made. It's extremely frustrating, I know where your coming from. Think about how nice it's going to be when your done. Post pics along the way too! -Ed

creative. Curious as to why you didn't get a 280z pulley to use instead of hacking up your ZX pulley. Either way you got it done. -Ed

Well damn... cats outta the bag now. This is what I'm rebuilding my Z for also. Except I'm swapping the rear for a 240sx suspension. Spend some time stiffening up the chassis man. I'm stitch welding mine and putting on beefier frame rails and other odds and ends. Great minds think alike or stray together? -Ed

wow... that's all I can say. You do some awesome work. My dream setup is a turbo blow through ITB setup with injectors. This is the closest thing I've seen. I had no idea people still do castings. Very Impressed. Let us know when you decide to sell some pieces. Those Injector clamps are pretty trick! -Ed

about 15 min from Jeff

Damn... that is some amazing light spread. I have projectors on my 240sx with HID installed and don't have near as pretty of a light spread.

looks like the ignition coil. This might help you http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf there are very few changes between 77 and 78. I have a 78 also. -ed

you beat me to it! lol. I was thinking about using this on my hatch as well instead of the push button. My only concern (that I could not get an answer from the other person I know that has these installed) is.... Do they rattle when driving? I've had several hood pins on my Z and I can't stand going down the freeway with the damn hooding vibrating with the play in the pin. I almost resorted to welding springs on the back side of the hood to keep it from doing so. If you can give me any feedback on this much would be appreciated. Everything from their website seems to imply a very snug tight fight meaning no rattling and play. -Ed

Awesome thread, definatley learned alot reading this. My only complaint is there is absolutley NO sound dampening information on Raamat, Second Skin sites. I used to think brownbread was the best bang for your buck (bquiet also) but now it seems there are better. However I would really like some technical specs on the products ability to absorb/dampen sound. It's great to know what temp it holds till and what it weighs but what about what it's designed to do lol? Anybody help me out here? -Ed

So I'm looking to replace the rubber on the front and rear windows (windshield and hatch glass) I have a 78 2+2, now i know the hatches are different, but I was not aware the front windshield differed from the coupe on a 280z. MSA lists 2+2 windshield weatherstrip at 77 bucks while the coulpe is 44. Whats the difference? -Ed