Nismo280zEd

That what my heat shield is... header wrap rivited to sheet metal with some AL bracing screwed on... works great! I also changed my fuel rail, it comes up the back side along the firewall, runs through a SS pipe i made, then into rubber to the carbs, no return line. you said asbestos insulators... are you refering to the rubber vibrations dampeners used mounting the carbs to the manifold? -Ed

I run an allison coil, Bosch plugs, Magnecore wires, and 77 dizzy. Although the dizzy sucks @$$ -Ed

OK well incase anybody ever read this later on, I found some fuse blocks I think will work. 12 circuits each, non bridged. They hold the AGC fuses (glass style cartridge) . Anyway.. here is a website with lots of usefull electronics. http://www.waytekwire.com also.. http://www.tiewraps.com < Hope this helps andybody later on doing electrical. Wayetek sells Bosch relays. cheers -Ed

Well I originally wanted to go with the Glass type cartridge fuses, however i can't find a fuseblock with enough circuits on it. Bigges one i found was a 10 circuit gang AGC fuseblock. So i guess i'll go with pegasus's racing ATC blade type fuse block, they have a 20 cirucuit and a 10 circuit should be overkill. -Ed

OK well i guess nobody is knowledgeable in this area, or feels it is a dumb question either way I have a very curious mind. So if anybody else out there is as curious as I am I found a very informative PDF write up on fuses. Pretty interesting I thought. http://www.wickmannusa.com/download/fuseology.pdf -Ed

lmao. Love it! My personal favs are the wheel questions. Offset and wheel width.. i get so tired of even reading them anymore. Ah.. after a long day of classes I needed this laugh. -Ed

find out the products used, that would be very helpful. Is it just turning yellow or are there small spider cracks or wrinkling in it? -Ed

yes i think that's a really odd cage, and where the heck does the valve cover breather line go to? makes an awfully long trek to some thing by the radiator, catch can setup or something? kinda odd? I'm actually planning on ducting my radiator, well not ducting but shrouding, lord knows I already have too much cooling on the freeway! I actually had to put a piece of cardboard infront of the radiator to get some heater action inside my car. But then again it was like 50 ambient temp i was doing about 80-85 and it was raining. No wonder i couldn't get any heat. Big Al radiators are fun.

Welcome back Larry! The board has changed alot in the last 2 years, as i'm sure you life has. Good to hear you are fighting with appeals, I'm currently taking Law courses and wish I could have helped you more when you needed it. The classic "Wish I knew what i know now, when i was younger". Great to have ya back! Best of luck and wishes. Alos in Regards to Mike Kelly's comment much earlier... about not fighting the feds. I disagree.. our country was founded on this very principle and we should never forget that; however, you should most certainly pick your battles and be smart about it. -Ed

Mike, we just need to accent your car with some orange, it'll make the blue pop, and giveyou a "transition" color so you won't be in a sea of blue. Little things, orange belts maybe, orange pin stripe on the dash, orange shift boot? Orange little accents. But hey, it's your car.. I'll help ya paint it however ya want -Ed

if your running EFI keep it on as it will affect your idle if you remove it. I run carbed and have my valve cover vented and the crank case vented. -Ed

I believe he is basically talking about electronic ignition instead of using point type for controling spark. He does have a point though, getting a longer stronger spark would be more beneficial for engine efficiency, however, if your running nos, or blown motor, you can't have that big a spark, it'll go out. So the multiple spark allows for better burn in those scenarios. -Ed

anybody?

About to undertake a long time needed project. I'm going to clean up the Z wiring, finish updating the little I have left, now that I have pretty much everything working electronically. The Plan: use a 1/8" or 3/16" piece of wood cut to fit under the passenger seat, maybe split it into two pieces not sure yet. Re-rout the fuseblock, all relays, all fuses (in-line etc.) anc circuit breakers onto this board. The board will have some sort of clip in clip out type moutn for easy removal without removing the seat. My problem is... I'm upgrading the fuseblock for the car since I use so many acces items. I can't decided wheter to go newer style, with ATC blade type fuse block, or stick with oem style with the glass ATO? I believe fuses. I can't seem to find any real advantage or disadvantages to either one. I've noticed the Marine stuff uses alot of glass type fuses while automotive seems to be leaning toward the blade fuses, are the glass more durable? Just curious, should be ordering parts this week. -Ed

FSM = Factory Service Manual EFI+NO GAS = LOTS OF MONEY Do yourself a huge favor, get like a 5 gallon bucket... and break the drain screw on the tank loose... see how much Sh@t comes out into the bucket, look at the color of the fuel, notice the smell, see if there is any water in it. When you put the new 5 gal of fuel in, add a quart of 100% rubbing alcohol or the highest percantage you can find. This will take water outta the fuel system. then in the engine compartment, replace the fuel filter, while the line is off... hot wire the pump and force it to pump fuel... flush all the crap outta your lines. then put the filter on, hot wire the pump again so the filter fill of fuel. Take off your return line, and wait untill fuel starts to come out of there. Now your system should be primed. check for spark, and try to start the car. Best of Luck, Ed

I ordered my sending unit from MSA a while ago and it came with the pigtails, however if your posts are what i'm thinking... my carter fuel pump uses the same type of hook ups... kinda like a nail with no point, and a mesh pattern ingraved on it? Maybe carter can send some hook ups, although the ones on my pump fall off... so taht might not be such a great idea. -Ed

wow... that is an awesome property! Love to wake up and see that everyday! too bad about RCNSC... gave me some good ideas for some glass work on the front end. Oh well... -Ed

I'd buy another car... A vintage 911 porsche. 1973 911T with the 2.4L down draft carbed engine, 5spd manual, all disc brakes, and under 2400lbs Some day I'll get my baby..

LoL... Hopefully my first wife doesn't give me as many troubles as this car. I recieved my racing catalogs in the mail today (Pegasus Racing) and they have Fuseblocks for dirt cheap. 20 circuit fuse block, accepts ATC fuses, rated for 30amp each circuit for 21.99 <<-At that price I might just go ahead and once i get it all working.. splice and relocate all my realays, fuses, circuit breakers etc to a board under the seat. Thanx for the advise, Ed

Pegasus Racing carries a full line of Weber Carb parts, DGV, IDF, and our favorite DCOE carbs. All the jest you need, repair kits, floats, even and upgraded repair kit for "forced induction" http://www.pegasusautoracing.com -Ed

I wasn't aware the engine could hold up to those kinda rpms, are you balanced and blueprinted? I also found a great site to get all the weber parts we need without havn' to deal with the TEP people of California. http://www.PegasusAutoRacing.com They even have a "new style" rebuild kit for the DCOE's which use rubber gaskets for those who want forced induction. From the catalog I have they seem to have all the jets anyone would desire. Still dont' know why this isn't a sticky. -Ed

yeah well rainx gets expensive and it doesn't allow you to pass state inspection. Dont' know about other states but here In TX you have to have working wipers. Good to hear about the hella switches, they look really nice! -Ed

lol... no comment... I plead the fifth! And yes you can leave it

If i remember right they have like a 2 gallon pickup on them I think. -Ed

Yours suffers the same curse as mine!!! lol -Ed