Nismo280zEd

Aight Mike so how is it a 4x4....? A week? shit... try 2 1/2 months fighting over a damn alternator... and 3 weeks fightn' over a header from MSA eh... oh well... I'll post some more pics once i get some paint on Mike. -Ed

Clearly i must be nutz

Ok so after a bad attact of the "while i'm at it's" A simple intake manifold gasket change turned into a new header, which turned into a new muffler, into a completely new exhaust. Somehow it also turned into a new alternator, a "winged hood" and welded up headlight buckets. Also a round racing style fuel door and new parking lights. Anyway!.... I'm curious about what kinda power numbers i should be looking for with my triples, I plan to get a dyno run sometime soonish and would like to know how i compare. My setup was mentioned before, N47 ported and polished head. Racing cam from japan, and valve springs. New 6-2-1 "thick flange" header into 2.5" exhaust piping. I should mention the head has been shaved quite a bit and a 1mm head gasket is being used. I'm honestly hoping from something around 200-220 rwhp am i nutz? -Ed

These cars arn't cars at all... Just play toys in my opinion. Fun little matchbox's to drive around. For racing they SUCK!!! My reasoning? Why put over 200hp to a front wheel drive car? All your gonna do is blow CV's break axles, get torque steer, and a whole world of problems. These cars would be much better off with a RWD base and then stickn' some power in them. Then they wouldn't suck. I've never heard a custom car builder say... "yeah lets make it front wheel drive... that'd be fun huh?"... and I hope i never do

yeah i smacked my head once today sanding... (hood wasn't all the way up) won't do that again! lol I have plans to cut the loop off from where the lids clipped down.. but that is all. -Ed

She can fly! and underneath the hood.... Here is the other on going project... Rust is a B**** -Ed

yeah yeah... lol moments of stupidity are pricless 8) -Ed

Thought i might share my latest transformation... I never did like those inspection lids... just a big mess on the car. Also welded up the headlight buckets, along with the custome louvers i did back in early summer. BTW the "wings" on the hood where hand made outta 18ga sheet metal with edges hammered into them and support welded from underneath. Have a few other things i'm adding but you'll just have to wait till i'm done to see those -Ed

That engine is the devil as far as i'm concerned. Two Maxima's 90 and 93 both with never ending problems. Gotta be an electronics engineer to figure anything out with them. -Ed

If only Japan was more open with their aftermarket -Ed

Mi amigo. This s problem plagued me for a year straight. Finally installed a fuel pressure gauge in my car, and raelized that my fuel pump relay was over hearting causing it to turn my pump on and off. I ran a hardwire to a switch inside witha fuse for a while with no problems Finally put in a new generic relay. Try running a hot wire to the pump and see if you have that problem again. -Ed

maybe that price is justified if you have a show queen, which not many of us on this sight do. Otherwise, I would suggest the boat carpet idea, it's what i have, and if it gets wet, guess what, it's not stained, ruined, moldy, or smelly. !!!! plus i payed 10 bucks for enough carpet for my whole car!

Just thought you might like to make a few revisions to your post, you misspelled a couple words. However i still got the jist of it. But arn't we taking this a bit extreme? A wise man once said "Man who see into future miss what happens in present" -Ed

What a straight up Balla. usling the flashlight piece.. ingenious! 8)

ok here is the exact sound... push open the thottle and let it go... the butterly slams shut... makes a "click" noise. so i suspect it's backfire through the intake. gonna retard the timing a lil and let ya know hwo it works. -Ed

I have enough problems tryn' to get the damn OEM gauge and sender to work together properly... dont' even wanna think about mixing gauges and senders! -Ed

car has been running well still, still have clicking in the carbs but that could be due to vacumn leak and adnvaced timing. Will retard to about 12 and try that after i get my new gasket. -Ed

haha no prob! Just call my work tell them i can't come in tonight lol. Maybe we could work out labor in exhange for beer lol. -Ed

could this also be a cause of "clunking" when shifting? Hi Jeff -Ed

Ok, sorry i couldn't post yesterday, computer was on the blitz. Ok, so i adjusted the butterlies or throttle plate as stated blocking the third hole (hole closesest to the intake manifold) then gently bottomed out all air mixutre jets and backed off a full turn to start with. (360, not 180). Started the car, it dled too low. turned the screws out a half turn each, still a little low. turned the out another half... perfect. Idles between about 800-1000, enough to keep the engine from shaking bad. (big cam) Car runs very well, except top end i have backfire when i shift, and when going at steady speed say 40mph in 4th carbs will "click" but not backfire, is this a normal thing? (webers are still new to me ) this is when the car is at temp i should mention so it's not from being cold. One other thing i wanted to ask, what degree of adnvace are you guys running? I've been playing with it, i've got it about 20 riight now seems really smooth there. -Ed

Well i tried tuning it the way you said.. but i guess i miss interpreted, i put the butterfly just infront of that last hole, and started it up. ran pretty good so i got out my color tune tool, to adjust the mixture. When that was all said and done it was idling about 2k. maybe a little higher, so disobeying your instructions i used the throttle plate screw and closed off the throttle plate till the idle kicked down. Which lead to whole world of other problems, including the throttle hanging, brakes nor workn' , etc. So i shall tune again tomorrow and not use the color tune tool. Keep ya posted. -Ed

Ok, sorry this took so long, but my job does pay the bills. Ok... triple weber 40 DCOE setup TWM intake manifold 4.5 Venturi 30mm chockes on the main jet... going from the top to the bottom of it: 200 F11 115 Then i guess.. secondary jet ? right next to the Main jet in the housing reads.. 45F9 Then there is another one about mid carb on side of houseing, I unscrewed a cover bolt with rubber o-ring, then under there was this jet i guess... was stamped 40 Let me know if you want some pics.. i took some with the macro on my camera. Now as for this adjusting of the throttle plate... when you remove the nut and look down... i see three holes, so does the butterfly cover the middle one and leave the other two open, or cover the one closest to the manifold? LIttle more info here would be apreciated. -Ed

catch can, like an overflow canister?

I hinted at this but i guess i didn't clearly state it... I'm running tripple webers with a TWM intake manifold. So i can't not simply "hook them up" to their stock locations as there are none. You said capping if off would pressurize the block, do you mean create too much pressure? cause it's pressurized anyways. I also dont' really see how blocking it off would contaiminate the oil anymore than having it open, like you said it's only dirty air going in and out there. Not like carbon deposites are being re-circulated. Or atleast that's my understanding from your post. So are you saying if i ran a hose from the crank, and a hose from the valve cover, and hooked the crank hose up to a PCV valve and into my vacumn, then installed the valve cover hose into the vacumn system, (like the stock manifold) that the car would have OEM properties? Nissan designed the engine to be pressurized for a reason, I would think that is kinda essential to keep. Is the right way of thinking here? -Ed

Man i must be doing something wrong. I'm running a huge Rond Davis radiator with twin cooling fans anything under like 50mph i gotta have the fans on too keep it cool. I do live in a very hot enviroment though. I've got the 50/50 mix, a cold 160 thermostat. I'm thinking about buying some of the special products that enhance the radiators performance, i think redline sells a product that you can add in. I just don't get it. Only gets hot when i get hard on the revs though... that's to be expected. otherwise like tuning my carbs sitn' in the driveway i only turn one fan on and the temp never moves. -Ed