Nismo280zEd

replaced the gasket today.. so far no signs of improvment.

Magnaflow is a loud muffler.. i have the street series on my car... and at high rev it is ear piercing, but mean as hell. My friend had a race series on his acura integra... too loud for my taste... we'd have the system up in his car and still hear the damn muffler. Also... if you need a 3" muffler you should be looking for "turbo mufflers" turbos all import turbo mufflers are 3" in 3" out... apexi makes an N1 straught through muffler but kinda loud. Ed

I used the booster and master cylinder brand new from a ZX... the rod (i'm assuming your talking about the rod taht goes to the brake pedal i just adjusted. This is probably all you need to do. i adjusted mine prior to filling and everything and i had pressure with the car off. (ie.. pump the brakes till they get hard) Let me know how it goes and if you need a pic... -Ed

i did the install no problem but then again i used the matching brake booster as well. did you check to make sure the master cylinder was working properly prior to installing fluid and lines? Honestly sounds like there is a hole in your brake booster or your arn't geting any vacumn... maybe check the vacumn lines, also do you have a vacumn bottle installed? -Ed

I'd say weatherstriping and hinges... i didn't know my striping was worn tilly my friend sprayed water at door frame... water appeared... amazing how that hapens. -Ed

Aight here is what you do next.... Find a really big box... maybe a couple of them.... Put all your shiny suspension pieces in that box... Then drive up to me in the Woodlands lol j/k I think you shoudl up the brakes next -Ed

yeah... that's what i suspected, excessive fuel not burned exploding when it hits a hot pipe, i don't know about yours, but cold mine really doesn't do it... but when it warms up it's alot of popn' So i guess just more mufflers? mines carbed i can't re-map anything bummer. yeah... the ladies definatly think your car is a piece when they hear that sh**.

Yeah actually that makes alot of sense.. describes my car perfectly. Ok well the gasket between the header and the pipe under the car is definatly toast.. i'll replace that one and see what happens I'm assuming it doesn't take much cool air to do this. And no i have no other mufflers or cats on my car... a straight 2.5" pipe from the header to my muffler. with only two turns. I think i'm still gonna put in a glass pack style muffler with some SS guts on the inside to take some DB outta the exhaust on topend. Kinda ear piercing at the moment. -Ed

hmm hole in my exhuast eh? ....well i definatly have the loud pop, but i also have the popcorn. when you say hole in exhaust do you mean header? pipe, muffler? i found one leak by the muffler, but i welded it up. Could it be caused by the gasket leaking between my header and pipe? cause my intake/ header gasket is brand new.. and i didn't see any holes in the header. I guess i could check again. Ed well the 3" pipe thing is easy enough to try.. what if i went to a 4" for like 15" would that "capture" the pop even more?

hmm... so like going to a 3" section of pipe then back to 2.5? woudln't this just make it louder? -Ed

alright.. i know for sure i'm not the only guy on here running an L28 with triple webers. My setup is as follows: N47 head mild porting and polishing Racing valve train and cam Slightly shaved head 1mm metal head gasket OEM bottom end 6-1 MSA style header into 2.5" pipe all the way to the back where i have a flowthrough Magnaflow muffler I run triple weber 40's with 38mm chokes i'm pretty sure. my timing is within' the norms.. nothing extreme. Ok so my car backfires when i decel. Now i know alot of you are going to say the carbs... thats not the problem.. i ran EFI with the same setup and it backfired. Now a mechanic told me it's the sign of a healthy engine. my fathers 911 does this and so does my friends 56 Ford both in excellent shape. I figure it is simply burning off the excessive gas in the pipe since i dont' have a cat. But now i'm just sick and tired of it and want to get ride of the popping. Surely i can't be the only one who has suffered this problem? I can't see room for another "standart" type muffler under the car so i was thinking maybe an 18" or 10" Glass pack style muffler would do the trick? or maybe two of them? I'm tyrn' not to hurt the flow here but come on guys.. you can't pick up chics when your car backfires.. they just dont' understand. Help me out guyz -Ed

Here is an easy way without takn' the whole front of the car apart. Unscrew spark plug number one take the plug out... rotate the crank to TDC via timing mark on crankshaft pulley or the screwdriver test. Take the valve cover off and look at the cam there are intake and exhaust lobes. the cam should be pointing like a V intake and exhaust pointing into the air when you look at it from the radiator point of view. if that is ok check your dizzy it should be about plug number one maybe a lil after or a little before. Also when the cam is looking like a V the V should be centered from the head block. What i mean by this is the block sits at an angle... if you have the cam lobes pointing up equally your timing is wrong... needs to be equal angles to the head. does that make sense? kinda hard to explain without a pic. -Ed

ok i gotta say this man... From the front your car definatly reminds me of the "nightrider" car. Hope no offense is taken here. did you glass over the cowl vents or make a complete fiberglass one? -Ed

nice gas cap... what'd you use? -Ed

I guess that is a fair enough question to ask. By warm up... i mean you have your tempurature gauge... F is in the middle going down the highway with a 160' degree thermostat to keep it a lil cooler (when tested acutally fully open at 170 the needle on the gauge is just barely before the F just drivn' around town in the 40-45mph range it's on the F now when i start to run it... say going down the high way at 90.. no problem then coming to a stop in a traffic jam withing 15 min it'll sneek past the F with both my cooling fans on and will peak about 3/4 between the F and the red mark on the temp gauge. which is usually when i flip the heater on inside the car and sweat my nutz off, but hey it keeps my car cool. That is what i mean by "warm up" And yes this is only a problem in the summer months here in Houston Texas where the road temp is probably close to 130 in the summer maybe hotter. I know they did a test on the news... the inside of the car only took 15 min to heat up to 140 F in sun. -Ed I should note.. i do not think the problem is the block either, but the fact that the pump does not displace enough water sitting idle or atleast that is my theory.

I'm curious of this too, i'm currently considereing a new Sanden compressor from Jegs with a v-belt pulley on it and just fabbing up my own system. Can i re-use the old condenser from my 78 or should i buy a new one.. i'm already getn' a new dryer. -Ed

I agree... i bought some of the high temp paint they sell at walmart in the silver color.. painted it up almost 2 years now still lookn' good. only a little surface rust on the flanges where i take the exhaust off. So is the jury still out.. can you weld stainless with out argon?

I thought you didn' have to use argon, that it was just recomended that you will just get slag on the weld. I'm gonna have to find that post again. Ed

I thought you didn' have to use argon, that it was just recomended that you will just get slag on the weld. I'm gonna have to find that post again. Ed

yeah when i first put my electric fan on hard wired to a switch... i forgot to turn it on while in the car with my g/f.... yeah... then i finally realized what i did flipped the fan on... was just shy of the red mark on the gauge.. turned off the motor let the fan run... started it up about 10 min later and drove home.... no problems. I think your fine honestly.

i run a f54 block and yes it does tend to heat up, i have an aluminium ron davis radiator dull cooling fans (highest output i coudl find) I run a japanese racing came and triple webers as well and mild port polishing on the N47 head. on the highway no prob, but street driving if you push it i'll warm up on ya, i'm gonna try and find an electric water pump next I think that might fix the problem.

poor but very interested! -Ed

you guys kinda missed the main concern i had here... typical fiberglass products you recieve are nice and smooth to the touch. The products i would be making woudln't; they would be texturized still untill i get a place to sand and paint. This would result in a cheaper priced product since less time would go into it. And i've been glassing since i was 5 everything from cars to boats and then some. As for pricing i'm not sure as i haven't figured out my actual cost yet... I want to do this for something on the side in college for some money and to help you guys out cause i know all the companies that do fiberglass pretty much don't exist anymore. I'll do some sample pieces this summer and post some pics on here and we will go from there, but only 5 people responded to this thread out of 134 people who looked at it... which means roughly 4% of the z people are interested in Fiberglass parts. So i'll just go by ear and see what happens this summer... If your in the Spring or Wooldands area and need soemthing painted drop me a line. -Ed

Would anybody be interested in having some fiberglass Z parts for their cars? These would be what i would call a "raw" finish until i get a house out here or someplace to sand and paint. By raw i mean it would have the fiberglass matt texture still, you would have to body fill and sand it. Would save some money on the cost of the part though for buyers. For parts i was thinking, fenders, hoods, cowls, some vents to start with. Let me know how many are interested on this forum. Trying to get an idea if there is a market or not. -Ed (poor college kid needing money)

I would like to clarify before this conversation gets too heated that CF is not a race clutch. Not entended to be run on track cars. It's for street cars that go to the drag strip on Sat night or an autocross every once in a while. Not entended to see constant track use, this is why i think it is a great clutch. Yes i would agree for track use i would not buy a centerforce, but for the street it's a great clutch because of it's slighty stiffer pedal feel, but not like pushing a damn rock onto the floor to shift like some other clutches. That is my .02 -Ed