Nismo280zEd

I was not aware of the drop in "r-12" compatible refrigerants. I might try that first before buyn' new stuff. Also.. I live in Houston Texas, the ambient air temp in the car easily reaches 140 in a matter of only 10 min. So the A/C system really needs to be above par as i don't want to sit for 20 min to cool off, by that time i'm already and home and soaked. Yes i've heard about mixed luck with 134a, that is why i figured if i took a system off an explorer, big vehicle to cool... I figure it would be more than adequate too cool off the hatch back Z. I'd also like to install a new fan motor and A/C controls, but one step at a time. -Ed

Well, the factory had it plumbed up into the intake manifold with a PCV valve screwed into the manifold. So basically it vented into the intake manifold (This is how the EFI setup was on my 280z). Also the breather hose from the valve cover went into the intake manifold, along with a bunch of other crap. I capped off my crank case ventilation tube today... made a big difference, gained alot of low end torque on my car, and ran alot smoother. But i would like to know the proper way, or atleast what other people have done with their converted triple webers, or mikuni, or other. -Ed

OK... while thumbing through the forums the other day i came accross an arguement about the Arizona Z car 4 bbrl intake setup vs. conventional... Anyway... i was readn' about how the crankcase ventilation tube should be capped off, not vented. So i'm thinking about this today.. and it dawns on me... I completly forgot the L series engine is pressurized compared to other engines. So it makes since that it should not be left open.. thereby causing a vacum leak liek when you take the oil fill cap off or the dipstick. So i blocked it off... Then i'm thinking... well it that shouldn't be vented, maybe the opening on the valve cover shouldn't be either... then i start thinking about my old EFI setup.... So i'm wondering... do i blocke them both off, or? Do i connect the two up with a PCV valve? or should it be tied into my carb intake manifold? Basically i'm asking the proper way to do this. Cause i know everybody with triple webers had to have conquered this issue. Thanx, Ed

Not bad, not bad at all.... for some reason i can heard Adam Sandler in the back of my head when thinking about my car at the next meet ..."There all gonna laugh at me"... As long as no rain I should be there. Nice Blue... kind looks like what mine should. haha -Ed

But are the R-12 designed systems going to perform as good as a 134a designed system? I don't wanna be putn' propane in my a/c system like some of the guys on here. The other thing i was thinking about was takn' the system from a Ford Explorer and adapting it. -Ed

no... that's why you don't use "Bondo" body filler. Use fiberglass and marine grade body fillers, then you wont' have a problem with water. -Ed

So... the butterfly is going to block the second port or be infront of it? What exactly is the proper way to set this throttle plate. Gonna try and do it this weekend. Also... sorry for my stupidity early on the choke comment. Got some part names confused with other parts and bad information. I have 30 mm chockes as mentioned, and after this weekend i'll prolly be able to tell you what some of the jets are when i take it apart. -Ed Forgive the EFI guy

ok so today i was cleaning my carbs and i had them off to wrap my header, and noticed on the venturi it was stapmed 30... now i was under the impression i purchased 38mm chokes.... so... is this still possible or? Little confused here, can i measure the choke? -Ed

both parties have points here, however i agree with wayne. The world is full of big bad people but that's not an excuse to be a dick, whatever happend to the customer is always right? or inocent until proven guilty? I look around at our country sometimes.. and it makes me wonder what my future kids are going to have to put up with. -Ed

I think your mistaken, 78 was the last year of the 280, in 79 nissan took over and called is the 280zx. 280 has drum in the back. -Ed

Since my compressor crapped out.. and my dryer has been exposed to air for a while, and my condenser isn't in the best shape... i was thinkinga bout installing a Domestic A/C system for cheap parts, etc. Then i saw this at courtesy nissan. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-AC has anybody tried this kit out? -Ed

10 teeth!?! good lord man! only takes a couple to make it run like shit or really smooth. Sounds like a problem i used to have... does it not like to rev above like 4k under load? and hicups sometimes? my problem was my fuel pump relay getn' warm and not working, cutting fuel to the engine... that fixed all my problems. Also... was this cam recently installed? you might be too advanced cam wise. and if the mark read 10 at TDC from teh new pully try it around 25 with the vacumn line off (proper way to set timing) also is your mechanical advance workn' on the dizzy? -Ed

The pipe does not muffle by going to a smaller diameter, it's the same theory as insulating water pipes, it absorbs the noise that flows through. What matters is peforation size, length, and packing material. (honestly i can't se SS packing material absorbing much noise.) Yes the magnaflows are "straight through" but mine has a taper. but no complaints. -Ed *Edit* I would think the reason for the taper is to create some backpressure, 1 for low end torque, and 2 with the taper at low rpm, the reduced exhaust speed, caused by the backpressure, i would think gives it more time to absorb sound, but once your revs pop up.... say 3k or more then i think it acts like a sprinkler, you have pressure behind the taper, and it necks down to a smaller size thereforce accelerating through it faster. which would explain why my muffler doesn't really muffle at high rpms.

Awesome... carbs are fairly new to me, but i'm learning quickly. Any tips in jetting is greatly apreciated, i've only found a couple really useful sights for tunning webers, but the jets are so expensive i'm hesitant to try new ones. -Ed (don't envy, the gas price kills me)

drax 240z i beg to differe.... i have a 2.5" in and a 4" out (tip) on my magnaflow street series muffler, but the inside tapers to like 2" i was pissed after i bought it, but it's still loud as s*** and looks good so i kept it. -Ed (but now i want it quieter)

Yeah.. havn' un-reliable transportation in college sucks! workn' on your car in the dorm parkn' lot bumming jacks and jack stands from kids is not cool. Especially when it snows. WRX very nice 8) aaron... you only paid 100 bucks for insurance?!? I pay 185 for full coverage on the Z !!! -Ed

I have 40DCOE triples on my 280. ported and polished N47 head. I bought my carbs from TEP out of callifornia (hate that place) TWM intake manifold. And stock however they had it setup. about 20 mpg best on average. pretty sure they have 38mm chokes sorry this doesn't help much, but i'm lookn' to change out some stuff to get better street ability. mine don't kick in either fully till about 4. Also have a Nissan racing cam from japan. -Ed

Same damn thing happened to me on my 280z, first it was the switch, then it happend again, that time it was the wire to the switch. Then both of them went out and wouldn't turn back on, so i re-wired the headlights. Works like a charm now. -Ed BTW 78 280z, not a ZX

I'm donig a similar project on my 280. redoing the front end and bumper. I'm looking for turn/parking assemblies as well... i was thinking something along the lines of an MR2 like 90-96 body style and mounting them in the bumper. I'm still searching though, don't have money for the foglights i want yet. -Ed

I have a magnaflow street series muffler. Can't complain, great flow, awesome sound i've heard nothing meaner. -Ed

I think your going about this the wrong way... Alot of mufflers already have tips on them... woudln't that make life easier? -Ed

Yeah.. i want to update the rear tailighs, i think the 300zx lights look extremly well back there however. -Ed I was also looking at installing some old school RX-7 lights... nice round illuminated lights... i think they would look sweet... or the newer 7 lights if you could make it work.

Hey guys... sorry to waste the space... you can delete this post. I got the dizzy workn' this morning, runs like a champ And thanks to a new air leak on my carb... backfires like one too lol Anyway i had it wired backwards (didn't know it would run that way) I switched the two wires around after unbraiding that whole mess of wires. Happy motoring. Ed

Ok... i know this has been covered before but i can't find the link. I have a distributor which came of a 77 280z engine, but when opening the cap... has 2 pickup coils inside. 4 blue wires come out of the dizzy. two of the wires merge into one... so you have three wires... all blue.. braided.. down to connectors someobdy crimped on... One big "O" type connector and two small "o" type connectors. Now my 280 dizzy had two wires... one green one red. So how do i wire up the 77 dizzy to my 280z? I'll post pics once i get my site up. -Ed Edit... I tried hookn' upt the two small terminals together.. and then the big one to where the red wire went.. the two small to where the green wire went.. it started.. but when i gave it gas.. the timing mark when from 15 to past O TDC

Ugh... Negative ghost rider.. I dont' trust anybody to touch my Z anymore. Last time i took it to a mechanic they tried to charge me 170 bucks for new spark wires and and coil claiming that would fix my problem. When in reality the fuel pump relay was bad. I'm my own mechanic.. I look at it for free. my car has done this for three years now... not like there is something wrong with the engine. -Ed I just need to know where to put the damn muffler... closer to the header or farther?