Nismo280zEd

I don't want to start an argument on the forum, I would just like to see the pictures you have of the Centerforce clutches throwing of their weights. I've never heard of this problem before from anyone. John C if you don't mind i'm kinda curious as to why you and fellow racers think the Centerforce clutches are junk. Drop me an email Sourcandy@playful.com or a PM. I don't want to start any arguemnts i'm just kind of curious as i have never heard anything bad about them. Thanks, Ed

I've found mazda miata mirrors work well, newer body style look best. -Ed

Bro... Centerforce all the way.. i would swear my life on that clutch. After i dropped my clutch one day i noticed a shimmy when i let it outta first... finally after a week figured out it was the clutch.. only shimmied outta first... still floor it now slippage.. slam gears no problem... only shimmied getn' into first. So i got the new Centerforce to replace the old one (15years old) When i took it apart... all the material on the flywheel side was basically gone. About 1/8th of the material was left on it. No scratches on the flywheel, no burning. All the material on the tranny side was fine. I drove the car for about 3 weeks with it like that with no problems... that is why i would swear by the Centerforce Clutch. And the dual friction comes from two different material types. There is an organic and a type of metallic (bronze in color almost) My father has one installed in his 911, very nice clutch. -Ed BTW i use a Centerforce 2

if your car is blowing oil out the block vent tube... shouldn't that be a sign of another problem? -Ed

I'd go Weber's all the way, easy to tune in my opinion, run fantastic, consistent, i can make my car idle at 400 rpm !!! and thas with a Cam! Not saying i want to but i can. Just don't go big... Get some Triple 40's DCOE Weber's... you'll love em. Really arn't that hard to tune. Most peole just don't know what they are doing. -Ed

i payed 220 to get my tranny completly resealed (parts and labor) and i agree witht the others... tranny mount time is bogus.. tell him you'll screw it on yourself in his shop, only one nut. I think the clutch price is a little high aslo i got my Centerforce 2 for 170 new hope that helps. -Ed

Aight what's so bad about thrown on an 18 and havn' some tuck on the fenders? I think it looks pretty sweet. And personally having had 15's and 14's the ride sucked compared to my 17's, but then again i like a car where i can feel the road. my 15's had too much sidewall fles even on a 60 series. Plus the tires are more redily available for 17's. Bigger brakes fit under 17's my car used to lift at 120 on my 15's. at 140 with my 17's i can let go of the wheel and it feels very stable. I think it benifited from the added weigh of the bigger rims. My car also handles like it's on rails now, very predictable. Plus the 17's make the car look newer in my opinion. When i tell people my car is over 25 years old they look at me in aww with a "No Way" expression on their face. I'm trying to make my car look newer as i think the chrome gives it an old look. I love the lines on the car and i think the rims make it pop. My dad was against me geting rims the whole time... after i got them and put them on... he want's bigger rims on his Porsche. But in true honesty "One man's trash is another man's treasure" and i do not think we should be wasting valuable space on the forum arguing about opinions. There is always going to be one person out here that does not like what you are doing with your car. Keep in mind everybody on this forum loves their Z and feelings are easily crushed. Walk softly my friends. I have nothing against people who are running 15's or 16's or 14's either... these are purely my opinions and reasons for switching to 17's. So lets please get back on topic and post pictures of 18's or 17's as the man originally requested. There is just about 2 pages of biased arguments on opinions on here. -Ed

how much did 25 feet cost you guys? i bought the aftermarket weather striping kits for the doors 40 bucks each... they work pretty good but i fell they are kinda short as the corner doesnt' fit too great. -Ed

i also found Miata mirrors work well

has your underbelly actually had any effects to the car? good or bad? I'm kinda curious.. i want do mine for protection and to keep air from the ground going up into the engien and out the hood. -Ed

on my 280 the realy would get hot and cut in and out... finally just wired the fuel pump to a switch that got power on acc, it's also fused, works excellente.

mines not for looks, its for theft (well hidden)

It's pretty easy to wire, up, cut the wire from the ignition switch that goes to the actual starter... thats the wire that starts the car when power is given. I have mine setup so you put the key in turn the switch to on, then press the starter button. I have it relayed using a 45 amp relay and a heavy duty racing switch hidden under the steering column. I have my switch on the ground wire not the power.

i'll agree here... last time i used some auto motive high heat paint, but after i put the carbs on my engine i used some POR-15 engine enamel... gives you nice thick coat... some good $hit. can't beat the por-15 products in my opinion -Ed

Ross... Always loved your parts and quality of excellence. As for the opposers to this project, Z cars are more popular then ever since the 350 was introcuded. And lots of people my age (college students) consider them great cars and are willing fork out the money. I myself would buy 1 maybe 2 sets for my 280 as that is now the weakest link on my car. I also would like to see some heavy duty stuff on them, or possibly replacable bearings. -Ed The Z will only die if you let it.

My numbers are acurate as well as my fuel gauge does not work, all i use are numbers. And the way i have my car tuned it get's better milege over 80 than under say 70-80 compared to 80-90, I think has to do with the rpm range, cause around 80-90 the came produces the most torque, so it kinda makes sense in that way. -Ed BTW city driving my max shift point is 3k, usually take first to that and progressively shift lower each gear, 2nd at 2700, 3rd 2500, etc. (this a 5spd as well)

Oh, so creates less slag by having a pocket or argon around it instead of air i guess? -Ed

I saw one of those installed on one of the weekend car shows Horsepower TV i believe. Never said how it worked for them though, and i don't know anyone who has one of anyone that has ever used one. From what i saw in install it kinda bolts on.... I'd rather spend the money and get the Quaife you know the quality will be good.

Now this is what the Z forum is all about. Nice job guys. That's why i love this forum -Ed

I might be wrong here but I thought you had to use Argon to weld stainless? or some gas (I've only done steel so far, wanting to try AL and Tig) btw i have a MIG And that car is going to be killer when it's done Second thought... you could run the exhaust out the side of the car, Side pipes, not like we have to meet emissions. Just a thought i personally would like a pipe out the back as well, but just an idea. -Ed

yeah but wouldn't that be sweet... (dreaming)

Well this is really going to piss some people off then. My spedo is tested true and accurate with several of my friends cars. I run 2.8L slightly shaved head, 1mm head gasket, Nissan racing cam, racing valve train, ported and polished head, MSA headers, 2.5" exhaust into a magnaflow flow through muffler. Intake i'm running triple 40mm Webers. I get 18 around town as long as i don't drive like an idiot. And on my 550 mile trip from Houston to Lubbock and tweekd my car to 27mpg and that is doing about 85-90 down the highway and i feel i can squeeze it up to 30 with a little more tunning. Your OEM stock Z's arnt going to get as great milege as some of the modified cars on here. stock Z's suffered from poor intake and exhaust flow. When you open that up the engine can breath, anything helping the engine breath better is going to increase your gasmilege as long as you don't drive like an idiot. Also mentioned was 4 banger imports barely squeezing out 30+mpg. My g/f 94 honda accord bone stock got 37mpg on the same trip. Just wanted to set the facts straight. One of the main reasons why the 4bangers suffer for mpg on the highway is the short gear ratios running 4k at 80. Something to think about. Ed

on that site in the pic they say 13,000 rpm do you mean to tell me those people have a Z engine that can run 13,000 rpm!!!??????!!!!!???????? nobody ever told us how much the part is american.

sorry for the confusion. Overall... it has three speeds. Currently i have 2 (high and low) your are correct with the intermitten being the 3rd speed. sorry guys, lots of late nights here at college.

I apologize, my misunderstanding. Sounds like I'll stick to my factory 5 for the time being i guess. -Ed