Nismo280zEd

sorry i couldn't help you with the Z motor wiring, mine was burnt and melted to an unrecognizable shape This summer i should time to figure out the intermitten for the honda. I'm assuming it requires another sort of relay that plugs into the extra slots. -Ed

page three the picture shows you how you get your different speed, power both the high and low at the same time and you get medium. I didn't not have time to wire it to the Z switch, currently i have it two auxilary switches on a switch board i have in my z. And like i mentioned before i dont' have the honda book to tell you how the intermitten works. -Ed

Here is an additional Picture of the motor to Arm mounted in the car. -Ed

Ok here you guys go, Email me if you have any ? or need aditional pictures. I didn't feel like taking the motor out of the car, but let me know if you need pics i can get some if you just need a visual of it. My wiring is only temporary right now, like i said i did this the day before i left for Lubbock. Also only high speed and low speed are noted here... when power is given to both then you get your third speed. Medium i guess you would call it. I'm guessing the other slots are for the intermitten relay on the Honda, I left my Honda book at home so i can't look it up right now. -Ed

ok here they are There ya go -Ed (sorry it took so long)

Everything SHOULD be ok... but i'm just very over cautious now days since my car caught fire. I ran this mod for several months with no problem or signs of too much electricity going through the wires. I should also mention as to not scare you off that my car caught fire from a hydraulic leak onto my header, not electrical wiring. I finally everything over here to get some good pics today of all my mods. I'm not quite sure why you had to grind down the nut and use loctite. maybe the ZX altenator is different. I did not use the Z washer if i remember correctly, I think i used the maxima washer as it was smaller... I'll check today and get some pics to help you out. ----I checked when i took the pics today.. I'm not using a washer, and i see no reason to really, the direction the altenator rotates will only tighten the nut. (like your lug nutz on the car once torqued they are good) -Ed and yes 125amps is very God like in the Z

75 at 3k?!? wow... i don't think i could handle that. I'm used to cruising about 85-90 at 3k-3200. and 115 max? 120 is cake in my 280 and i can't imagine being limited to it. Sounds like that tranny would be best for 1/4 mile runs maybe... lowering gearing... quick starts. -Ed

Null bound is your car lowered? I have a bigger wheel gap on my 280 with 17's i'm running 40's though what sizes do you have? i'm 205/40 up front and 215/40 out back -Ed

lol awesome 8) Does this mean i get another star? lol j/k I'll get some pics for you guys in the light, just glad i could help you guys out. Ed Oh i forgot to metion.... the screws that held the Z motor in.... also can hold the honda motor in, they are the same thread etc. -Ed

Ok boys. I bought mine new from the local automive store (O'Reilys) here was 120 i think with a lifetime warranty. (I can check the reciept if you want the exact) This is a farely straight forward mod as long as you don't screw up. With that said this is what i did. Start off by modifying the wiper arm as this takes the longest. Upon removing the arm and motor out of the car make a note as to which side of the arm faces toward the motor. You do not want to grind the wrong side.. then you are very screwed. Now on the side facing the motor you want to take a file and file away at the metal to achieve an angled circle that matches up with the angle on the motor this takes about an hr depending how familar you are with filling. After you get the arm to match the motor and it is on the correct side you need to modify mounting bracket that the motor mounts to. Position the honda motor over the bracket the same way the Z motor mounted notice that some metal on the bracket prohibits the motor from mounting flat on the bracket. I took a hacksaw to mine and cleaned it up with the grinder. (keep in mind this was done the day before i was to go to lubbock so just getting it together was the priority, not how clean hidden plates look.) After removing this metal the motor should be able to sit flat and square on the mounting bracket. Now that the motor can sit flat notice how the three holes to mount the honda motor are almost in the same location as the Z motor was, just in a tighter circle. I put some grease where the holes are on the motor and carefully placed it in the center of the circle. When you remove the motor, the grease marks where the new mounting holes need to be. I was in a hurry and misdrilled my second hole. So i used the first one.... sloted the second and third, this ended up working very well alowing me to center the motor to my liking. After you do that all you have to do is bolt up the arm to the motor put it back in the way it came out. Easy as pie. It's easier for me to just show you how to wire it up instead of telling you, I will try to draw something up and post it tomorrow or saturday if i can figure out the new upload setup. Ok well this is the general write up... hopefully take some pics tomorrow in the light. -Ed

Yeah no prob, I could work on a write up for this weekend for you guys. With some digital pics if i can get them to load on the new site. -Ed And no, I do not have the motor in a bag as the motor is designed waterprof the way it is.

I forgot to mention If anybody does this i could take a pic of the wiring on the connector for all to use as reference? -Ed

Well guys sorry to keep you hanging. The 94 Honda accord wiper motor is very easy install. I am very happy with the results. Currently i do not have the intermitten part hooked up, but i do not care to hook it up either. I have wipers!!! Anyways the install is very clean ground out the wiper arm a little to match the angle of the wiper motor bolt on the accord. Bought a nut from sears couple washers... bam wipers. 3spd wipers. With a lifetime gaurentee on the motor. Does it get much better? the Honda motor even uses the same screws as the Z motor to mount it! just have to redrill on the plate. New fast wipers 120 bucks... i'm very happy. -Ed

ok so i'm going to do this myself since a full rebuild kist only cost 119 from a source i found. Any tips i should be aware of ? I have the repair manual and everything looks pretty straight forward.

what kinda rpms where you at in 5th doing like 85-90? in a the 240sx?

i'm in need of a new tranny and if you can use a 280z drive shaft.... i woudn't mind tryn' this out.

Does anybody know of a reputable dependable transmission rebuild shop between Houston and Lubbock in texas? My 5spd didn't like the trip up and something is wrong with 5th. thank you very much -Ed

Hey, I could not find anything on this topic in the search, but i KNOW there is info out here on it. I'm looking at where i can find an adjustable timing gear for the 280z, i know they seel them just can remember where... Also a technical question. How many degrees would it change the timing by jumping a tooth on the timing gear? 5, 10 degrees? -Ed for some crazy reason my car like to run about 40 degree advance, runs great there 2.

I never thought about the tank needing to me grounded, my fuel gauge sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, usually doesn't work till below half tank, brand new sender. Figured it was the gauge but i have reason to believe otherwise now, if i actually made a direct ground to the sender or tank would this help? -Ed

Just reading about a totaled MR2 makes me want to wet my eyes. I absolutely love those cars with that body style. what other can do 0-60 in 5 flat stock from that year!?!? Japan sure does know how to make them. How you can gro from an MR2 to a Civic boggles my mind however, what about selling the civic pickn' up and old 240sx for him if he likes imports. Good rear wheel drive cars, slow in stock fashion but have potential if you have money. Just a thought... -Ed btw... I wouldn't mind having an Integra as well, nice Type R

I don't know about you guys, but the whole point of installing an alarm in my case is cheaper insurance. Cops don't even give a car a second glance when an alarm goes off. I installed a couple kill switches, and have my fuel pump on a switch, also a couple relays as well as a remote start. My own father can't even start my car. -Ed

well i think you the closest one. -Ed

OK here it is. Mods please make this a sticky as this is a frequently asked question. How to change your 50-70amp Z altenator to a 125 amp beast. ok, to answer everybodies question Yes a Maxima Altenator can easily bolt up to a Z engine. I will post pictures of the bracket i made and the installation as soon as i upload the pictures to the site. Here is the basic install of the Maxima altenator. I used the 95 Maxima DOHC (dual overhead cam) altenator, it puts out more power than the SOHC model does. The altenator will run you about 225 without a core, but you can easily change that with a junkyard part. Ok here it is. First thing you want to do is reduce the bolt hole size on the Maxima Altenator to the same size on the z block (6mm?) I did this by going to sears and buying some plastic bushings that fit the bolt size i needed, then simply taped them into mounting holes on the Maxima Altenator. When you tap the plastic bushing into the mounting holes, they might become smaller, in which case simply drill out the center of the bushing to match the bolt size for the z. Note, on the Altenator one of the mounting holes looks like a brass bushing like it can move, it can. When you tap the bushings into this mounting hole it will move, but this is good as you will have to adjust it till it fits on the Z block mount just right. Now you want switch pullies from the serepentine on the Maxima altenator to the V-pulley on the Z altenator. This is easy if you know the proper way to do it. Start my disasembling your brand new Altenator. I believe there are 5 or 6 long screws that hold the top of the altenator to the bottom. You should now have to pieces to your Altenator place the piece with the pulley attached to it in a vice. To do this you will need a couple paint sticks or some other soft wood. Put two paint sticks on each side of your vice, then place the core inbetween them (the big steel piece with triangular pieces). Simply tighten the vise and make sure you hear the wood crack as it is forming to the triangles, this will keep it from slipping out. At this point all you have to do is remove the pulley by removing the nut that holds it on. Now take the pulley off and place it to the side for now. At this point you should follow the same steps to removing the z Altenator pulley. OK now you have to go to sears again and buy some bronze bushings/bearings I used 3 that i picked up from sears (should have the pictures later). These washers or bearings or bushing whatever you choose to call them, simply fill the space in the Maxima altenator of the Z pulley will not rub the casing on the Maxima Altenator. Now with your spacers installed place the Z pulley on the altenator and BE CAREFUL TO CENTER THE PULLEY BEFORE you tighten it. At this point you should have the Z V-belt pulley on the Maxima Altenator, but you still have two pieces. If you look insed the second piece you will see to spring loaded pieces that have a curve on them, these are the brushes that keep contact on the altenator as it spins. You need to compress these into the housing in order to install pice 1 of your altenator into piece 2. if you notice, there is a small hole on both of the brushes. Now look on the back of piece two... there is a small hole. you need to find something about 2-3" long that fits into that hole, I found a long finishing nail lying around in my garage. Ok, you want to take your fingers and compress both brushes into the housing, then with your other hand, slide the nail or whatever you found into the whole from the back through both brushes. This is a bit tricky and takes a little trial and error to get it right if you've never done this before. Now both brushes should be compressed into the housing of piece 2, now you can install pice one into piece two. Slide the housing so both mounting holes line up (the ones with plastic bushings you installed in them) now put the 5 or 6 scres back into the housing and torque to maybe 5-10 lbs max. make sure the screws are all striaght and not going in sideways. Alright, we now have an altenator that will bolt up to a Z! almost... you have to create an extention for your tension bracket for it to work properly with the Maxima altenator. I used a piece of steel angle iron. cut it about 6" attached one side to the timing cover and the tension brace on the other side. the angle iron runs horizontal. you need to cut out a 1" nitch on the top side of the angle iron on the timing cover side so the belt will not rub on the bracket. ( i have a picture of this as well) Wiring based on 280z Ok, now the altenator will fit onto the Z. install it the same way you would the Z altenator. Now for wiring. ok... This is fair straight forward. the post on the altenator is the out put post, hook up the old out put wire onto this post. (cut the ring terminal at the end and spread the two prongs apart to make it big enough to fit the post, or install a bigger ring terminal) connect the old ground wire to the small screw on the back of the altenator. ok, now the altenator has two small prongs on the side of it in a black open space for a plug. These are simply for the gauge in the car. (I tried to make this general to apply to all Z's, i'll post a pic of the 280z wiring) Ok, now your altenator is complete. Mine reads 14.6 at the battery when the car is running. Here is a potential problem, make sure all your wiring is good as it will carry more twice as much amps through it now. Also i've encountered a problem. My altenator actually drained my battery with the car off, now the first time i did this that did not happen, when i got my new altenator for free (thank you lifetime warranty) my second one DID do this. Now from what i've read on this board you can simply install some inline diodes which act like a check valve for electricity. Ok, now you have an altenator that can run your halogen lights, powerful radio, aftermarket fuel pumps, fog lights wipers, and still have plenty of juice. Enjoy, Ed

what's your sisters name? she single? lol Yeah i go to Tech used to live in Houston as well.

wow... someone really spent some time with all those pics, great link! -Ed as for your carbs i would do what you originally thought, but the EFI i would just adjust the timing a little, put in clean filter. Those arn't dirty enough to worry about, the EFI on the Z carbs plugs real easy at idle. If you only drive around town locally, you probably never run it high enough to clean em.