Nismo280zEd

you can use pretty much any animation program to create what you are asking about. if you can't do the tripod thing... just take lots of pics... then go into photoshop and crop them so they are all centered, etc.

to answer your original question yes it will help imensley!. also siliconing around the two holes that your efi stuff goes through on the fire wall helps.

talking about driveshafts.... is it possible for an original driveshaft to wear down soo much that it leaks outta the rear tranny seal? cause i have a brand new seal and just got the tranny resealed and it leaks at the rear seal. is it possible? anybody know the exact specs for it?

can't see your pics bro. wants a username and password. Give me some pics and i can play around with them in my free time. do you know how to use masks and gradient transitions? that might help you alot... also recolor them to match.

pretty please could somebody send me a copy? i have adobe photoshop 7... i can blow it up as big as you want. -Ed

I don't know what brand intake manifold you have... but mine does not have a balance tube that connects all 6 ports. i only have a vacumn port off #6. I'll have to look it up but i'm pretty sure i have the TSW manifold... it just has runners that go to the block, however.... i do have the air vents all connect to each other and to the valve cover... if i just capped those while adjusting?

ok... being a full time college student now with no job currently, I can't afford to go buy a 60$ synchrometer and a 60 atachment to make it fit to webers, plus i don't have my airhorns on anymore. So i'm sitting in math class today bored off my @$$ and i start thinking about making one. all it has to do is measure vacumn esentially. So i star thinking... take something like a clear tube.. say like 50mm diameter use something that fits inside it like a ping pong ball... attach the ping pong ball on a spring and attach the spring to the end of the tube. put an O-ring on the other side of the tube.. and that would sit on opening of the car.... then you just use a sharpie and put marks on the clear tube... adjust all the carbs to the same mark.. What do you guys think? any other ideas? -Ed

hmm... interesting... if all you did was switch coils like you claim... then nothing will change. I suspect... you put on a new coil, tried switching the ignition unit and pulled the plugs... In doing so you could have easily, switched spark plug wires, ie put the wrong wire from the dist to the plug, turned the dist to bump the timing off. Or messed up the wiring to start the car from the transistor ignition unit. The coil is NOT your problem judging by the voltage you claim as 9volts (assuming a fully charged battery here) then i'm willing to bet money you wired the new ignition unit wrong. I speak from previous expierience wiring my 280. I'd recomend double checking your wiring. but it's not your coil, i've used good and bad coils you can't tell the difference between them at idle, only till you heat everything up and the coil starts to misfire and act up. hope this helps -Ed

yeah that's ok... good info for future Z enthusiasts craving info. I have an electric voltmeter so it really doesn't matter if it's hooked wrong etc. Anywas the whole problem is getting mine from houston when i'm 600 miles away in lubbock... don't have a spare light to hook up either. Thanks though.. i'll figure something out -Ed

ok.. the cracked box thing is your fusible links, they are basically 25 year old technology for fuses. easily converted. maybe the box by your coild your talking about is a resistor? a ceramic piece with a spring inside and two wire posts on each end? other wise your going to have to descirbe it better, what brand is the coil? -Ed

Yes... i have bypassed all relays, but only because i had to because the got burned up in a fire. Hotwiring those components i would strongly recomend not doing unless you like electrical fires. the whole point of a relay is to take the electrical load so that you don't burn up your switch or burn smaller gauge wires, etc. If you hotwire it you no longer have this safety feature and protection. I agree the 25 year old mess of wires on the Z is not very pretty, make your life easy... go to autozone or whatever car parts store you have, buy some 35 amp 5 prong relays (generic) and just wire in new relays. That way you have clean wires you understand.. and your saftey protection. If you need any help just let me know... relays can be confusing at first. -Ed

Hey... i could desperatly use that wiring diagramn on the computer. but i can't get the file to DL off your website... anyways you can send me via email? if so.... Sourcandy@playful.com thanks Ed

i believe mine put out 70amps with my 78 280z (fuel injected) That is not enough power if you are ever in the rain, headlights on, blower on, wipers on, and stereo, it just doesn't have enough juice. Which is why i upgraded. Most guys on here upgrade to the 94 maxima alt but for the price it was i didn't think it put out enough power. So i went with the 95 maxima alt. puts out about 225 amps 8) now that is more than enough juice... no problems at all If you need some help installing let me know i can put some pics up later when i get my card reader. -Ed

The radiator costs 248 then 25 for each inlet outlet size change... had them changed to 1 3/8" to match the engine so with tax and shipping etc. payed 298. And it was worth everysingle penny! Once i get my card reader back for my camera i can post some images of what i did. Really clean install i think. -Ed I forgot to mention... yes it is a Ron Davis.

lol.... now that is funny

Well i finally got some free time to let you guys know how everything worked out. Radiator is more than ample enough to cool a Z with two 10" fans. Ran it 600 miles with no problems. Actually cooled it off too much! lol need to put a warmer thermostat in it... cooled so much that i couldn't get hot air from the heater untill i came to a stop light and let it warm up a little. btw.. did the whole trip without the fans on. Anybody looking to do the conversion i would highly recomend it... very easy and looks great.

like i said i rewired the Z, previous wiring got toasted from fire. everything from the firewall forward is new and larger gauge. You might be on to something with the altenator. Hey... does your volt gauges always have power in your car? mine does. Anyways i upgraded the altenator again to the 95 nissan maxima dohc puts out like 235 amps or something ridiculous like that but it works fine when i'm driving. Maybe too much power to the battery? my gauge does read about 15-16 volts on the highway. I don't quite understand how to test with the voltmeter... i put one terminal on the battery positive and the other on the circuit? let me know... -Ed

anybody? I've rewired the old 280 from fire damage. Is there anybody that is really good with electronics.. i need some help diagnosing possible battery drains. Thanx. Ed I can draw up how i have it wired on autocad if anybody likes.

OK so i finally got the thing done. I ordered the radiator from Ron Davis Model number 26163 I believe (i'll double check that) Had them put on 1 3/8" inlet and outlet on the radiator chevy style (i did not do the double pass). The radiator is absolutely Gorgeous! and weighs next to nothing... by the time i payed shipping and the custom inlet outlets sizes the grand total was 289. I used 1/8" steel x3" and made some brackets to hold the radiator. Also had to drill new holes to mount them in. Then inside of the mounts i used one of those flexible cutting boards prolly 1/16" thick maybe a little more and lined the steel radiator supports with those as to not damage the Al. radiator. I still have to Silicon the hole radiator to the to the support braces it rest against and seal any holes. I have pics of this and will post them when i have some time. Just wanted to let you guys know the radiator DOES fit, you could actually put one in there 1" wider if you wanted. I'll keep you guys posted and tell you what radiator hoses i used aswell. -Ed

Well maybe i'm trying to ask my question the wrong way... a comment was made... Most people tune there cars so it's OK and when they get to drive a PROPERLY tuned car the difference is night and day. Maybe i should be asking of your definition of properly tuned, to me properly tuned is when the engine consumes fuel the most efficiently producing the most hp and smoothest curves. (i'm only talking about engine tuning here)

so does anybody have an idea of a good setup for sealevel elevation? -Ed

Well i've made up my mind... single pass Ron Davis radiator model 26163. 219 bucks. Your car is designed with certain pressures in mind.... when you start changing them... things don't work like you think they will.... If you drop the pressure from stock... that means less water going through your pump with each turn which in time could wear out your pump faster from less lubrication.

I just heel toe downshift, Lots of fun and really realy easy to do in the Z. Especially with my big size 12 feet. -Ed

Yes, MSA does provide the spacers needed to install the wheels onto your Z however my point is... if you are going to pay MSA to go buy spacers and then pay to buy wheels from konig, why not just buy spacers from Ross C. for a very reasonable price, and then pick ANY wheel you want that will fit a honda. Leaves you with alot more options and you save money.... i believe MSA kit is 1200 for just rims and spacers? i payed 1100 for my 17's with the tires i wanted, mounted and balanced and spacers from Ross custom made. But hey... it's your car and your money. -Ed

Well i'm really leaning toward the honda motor as i live in houston, TX and it rains quite i bit here... also Flroida is in my future and it likes to rain there as well. So far, i've re-wired ignition, headlights, radios, altenators, converted fusible links, wired in relays to take more load, new fuseblocks, etc. I think matching up prong for wire from the motor shouldn't be too dificult. Pluse i've got the repair manual for the honda so it should ahve the wiring for it in there... and if that doesn't work.. i have the car to go look and see how honda wired it. Plus... the honda and the Z have the same amount of switch speeds, Int, Medium, Fast. and the both have the feature to push where it sprays fluid and wipes. So i think it should go pretty smooth. If all works our i'll write up a post and put some pics on here for future Z guys.. i know many would be interested. -Ed