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Everything posted by ryant67
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At the risk of being unhelpful, I remember the Late John Coffey (jeez I miss that guy...) frequently referring to Erik Messley as his suspension guru. A little googling came up with Erik's email address as: emiracing@mindspring.com I'd probably shoot him an email and see what he thinks. He had John competing with Dodge Vipers and winning, so it should certainly be a good place to start!
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The Isky L6 grind is 270 duration and .540 lift. I suspect the Potter cam has a little more duration and steeper ramps, meaning more duration at .050 lift. It's more money, but potentially a bit more performance too. The Isky is $140 for the regrind, but that doesn't include the cost of your own supplied core and shipping both ways for those who aren't local to Isky.
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Steve is indeed a good guy, very active on the Facebook groups and well known.
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A similar thing happened out there in Ontario a couple of years back. An owner put up a $10k reward for information leading to the return of his stolen Z, which had had owned for 40+ years. This put too much heat on the thieves I guess, so they ditched it in a field. Unfortunately it sat in that field for a month and developed some rust prior to being found... Anyway, someone eventually saw it, contacted the owner, and he got it back. The guy that found it declined any reward too, it was nice to see! https://www.thestar.com/news/gta/2015/04/23/owner-reunited-with-his-bluebird-a-stolen-vintage-sports-car.html
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I think another issue is that while you can select a muffler that will be quiet when first installed, once you've ran it hard for awhile it will start getting loud as the packing deteriorates. My Magnaflow was borderline too loud on install, and now it's just beyond excessive. I really need to nurse the throttle to keep the noise down in the city... There are places that manufacture mufflers that you can open and repack as needed. I think that will be the direction I head in next time... Coast Fabrication makes them, but I think you'd be looking at a custom size to get enough volume to keep the noise down, or daisy chaining a couple of them... http://www.coastfab.com/ultra-lightweight-racing-mufflers.html Burns makes them too, although I think it might actually be Coast manufacturing them... http://www.burnsstainless.com/ultra-lightmufflers.aspx
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$3600 for the Pandem (RB) kit from Greddy, so all said and done they are probably comparable in price, shipped and everything. I quite like the Speedforme kit as it's not *too* over the top, the car is still very much a S30, just with some flair and modern touches. Anyone that buys one will certainly win points for uniqueness too, since I doubt anyone in North America is running one, whereas I have seen a few Pandem and Moonbeam kits already. I never liked the rear valance on the Speedforme kit though - it doesn't seem to match the subtleness of the rest of it - so I did a quick photoshop altering it to make it cleaner. Less holes and less busy looking.
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Thanks for the info! Clearance shouldn't present too much of a problem - the EFI Hardware air horns I use have a separate flange, and then a set screw holds the horn into place once slid in. Solves some mounting headaches. Right now I have an ITG Megaflow JC100/65 mounted onto a grommet secured backplate. Your solution is tidier and more secure though!
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I've been looking at buying that same Reverie item - I imagine the quality of quite good? The price is certainly very fair right now with the exchange rate! Really like the look of the sausage filter too. I bet it makes it much easier to maneuver the filter on and off, while also giving more clearance. Great job!
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Not sure about the benefits, other than being able to see two halves instead of one whole. With old carbs that might be somewhat useful when troubleshooting issues and balancing, but as you said, with new ITB's that are in spec and controlled by a reliable ECU it would likely be overkill. If it were me, I'd probably just plug both of the existing 02 bungs, and place one further down the line after the marge and call it a day...
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That looks really great - and the rest of the interior doors too!!
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Stainless steel headers, exhaust and JDM twin-pipe rear muffler
ryant67 replied to SeanD's topic in Vendor's Forum
Looking again, I suspect you are correct. There should be plenty of clearance. I just googled up some more pics of oil pans, and I can see my pan (black) is a bit different than the typical competition oil pan (silver one in the pics), perhaps some old school DIY job? In any case, since my oil tray is offset, unlike the competition pan, I'm sure will be fine. Time to crunch the numbers and decide what I'm doing - I've been drooling over your header for a while now. Sorry to clutter up your thread! -
Stainless steel headers, exhaust and JDM twin-pipe rear muffler
ryant67 replied to SeanD's topic in Vendor's Forum
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Yeah, looks like it would be close... thought I'd check, as I recalled reading of clearance issues with the "old" design competition oil pan and the competition header. I notice that most of the competition style oil pans you see now have a notch on the corner of the pan by the header at the rear of the engine block, which presumably came about due to this clearance issue. Here are pics: -
Stainless steel headers, exhaust and JDM twin-pipe rear muffler
ryant67 replied to SeanD's topic in Vendor's Forum
Hi Sean, do you have any pictures of the race-sport header installed on a car from underneath? I'm interested in grabbing one, but worried I might have some clearance issues with my large competition oil pan and mating issues with my existing exhaust system. Would be great too see how out all lines up. -
Dash looks great! Barring anything unforeseen, it's really looking like you will have the car on the road this summer! Are there any tracks for drag racing or club nights for autox or something down around there? Might be fun to get a mini meet going with the Rochester guys. Pretty crazy looking at all the snow you guys got. Up here in Kingston we didn't get any, just a whole lot of wind.
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Ah, stuff like that freaks me out a little. Browsing Amazon on my desktop computer then seeing ads for those items on Facebook on my phone. Guessing the ad vendors know who we are and what devices we use.
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Not sure what kind of ads you guys are getting on this site, but mine are generally tasteful and never offensive or malware... Right now as I type this I have an ad for Jaguar cars at the top, and another for TD Bank at the bottom. That said, if paid membership would allow folks to go ad free, I am sure many would be glad to go that route.
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NA 3.1L=>head & camshaft questions. No shortcuts, max
ryant67 replied to zredbaron's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Good to see another post. I wouldn't sweat over how you share things, as I imagine most folks are thankful for whatever information they can get. I know I am anyway! Is the car back on the road now? -
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Any chance of you offering a 60-2 wheel option too, for us who run Electromotive systems?
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Stronger motor mounts
ryant67 replied to jessejames's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
If you have some decent fab skills, here is a thread with some ideas: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/86839-urethane-engine-mounts-for-l-series/ Edited to add this thread too: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54341-captive-engine-mounts/ -
Another option - Cobra GT3 seats. http://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/cobra-gt3-bucket-seat/prod_6052.html The US Cobra dealer doesn't have them on their site, but I imagine they could get them. Judging from the price differences, I would expect them to sell them for around $700 each though...
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I'll post the link for you: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391472202342 This doesn't answer your question, but I will throw this out there as another idea. Came across them while raking through ebay, and they look pretty cool too! http://www.ebay.com/itm/332006622925
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T3 Coil overs vs DIY Ground control kit
ryant67 replied to turbogrill's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Well, it would differ in that the shocks aren't the same. T3 uses Koni 8610-1437 race shocks, which run about $250 each. Don't forget incidental expenses too, like supplies to strip the finish on the housing, repainting, spacers for the shocks and so on. You can DIY for less, but I think T3's prices for the coil overs are very fair, especially when you sell your old suspension after switching.