74_5.0L_Z

The front fenders, airdam, and hood are fiberglass. The ducting was shaped in foam and covered in fiberglass. About the front suspension, I have a proposal: Why don't we (the members of HybridZ) undertake the design of a front suspension that utilizes the factory front frame rails. We have several members on the forum with some expertise in this area and several like myself who wish to know more. As a start, I propose that the front frame dimensions (just the frame rails not the strut towers), front crossmember, and rack be retained (to the inner tie rod only). By holding a few things constant, we can reduce the number of variables in the design. The design should use upper and lower control arms and a readily available spindle assembly. Things that should be considered are bumpsteer, roll center, camber gain, scrub radius, etc... Is anyone interested in playing? Who has suspension design software to try out various proposals?

I built my tube chassis front end to quazi-stock dimensions and used the front strut suspension. My reason was simple: I had recently finished the front suspension before I wrecked the front end. I had brand new coil-overs, koni struts, camber plates, and aftermarket brakes. Given the expense of doing the chassis, I opted to save some money by using the components that I had. If I didn't already have a bunch of new components, I may have gone with a upper and lower control arm. As it is, I did not. I do sometimes think about modifying the front suspension as follows: Keep the stock mounting fo the lower control arm and rack. Eliminate the strut. Create mounting points for an upper control arm (this would be easy once the tube chassis is in place. Use either a readily available factory front spindle (Mustang or Corvette) or one of the modular circle track spindle assemblies from Coleman racing or Afco. Whether I use a factory spindle or aftermarket racing version, I would source tubular control arms from Coleman or Afco racing.

I'll take these one at a time. Do you have issues with driveline vibration when accellerating hard? No, the only time that I notice any vibration is at steady state cruising. Usually around 80 or so mph. Even then, the vibration is just an annoyance. How about u joint wear? I've had the same driveshaft for 7 years. No problems. What engine crossmember did you use? I started with some plates welded to the frame rails that utilized the 5.0L rubber mounts. Later, when I rebuilt the car for the second time I switched to a front plate/mid plate configuration. I am in love with that type of set-up because it frees up the space on the sides and under the engine. Do you (know) what the length of your driveshaft is? My driveshaft is 19.25" from the center of the front U-joint to the center of the rear U-joint. If you search my old posts (circa 2000), you will find a listing for the part number of the neapco adapter. Where are your corner weights listed? Here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92703 The first post lists my old cornerweights and the last my new.

A very good question. My engine is installed centered between the frame rails, and it works. However, if I were to do it again, I would offset the engine towards the passenger side. This would provide the following two benefits: First, it would allow for better U-joint angles on the driveshaft, and better centering of the shifter in the factory hole. Second, it will make corner balancing the car easier. If you look at my post regarding my corner weights, you will see that the right front is very light compared to the left front. Also the left side percentage is about 51.6%. Offsetting the engine 1/2" - 3/4" to the right will help with both of these issues. The difficulty will be in finding block hugger headers that allow this engine position.

I just finished repainting my car, and as part of the process I removed the windshield and hatch glass. Removal was simple. I just cut through the rubber close to the glass, and then I just lifted the glass out. Then I finished removing the weatherstrip. After painting, I reinstalled the glass with new weatherstrip. I (like you guys) was a little concerned about the installation. I even called some local windshield people and got a quote for them to come install the windshield and rear glass. They wanted about $200.00. I am really cheap and a bit of a do-it-your-selfer, so I opted to try it myself. There are several write-ups on this site and others, but here is what I did: First, install the weatherstrip on the glass. This is pretty easy to do with the glass out of the car. Second, get some quarter inch diameter rope (~ 12 feet) and push it into the outer channel of the weatherstrip all the way around the periphery of the glass. I configured the rope so that the two ends of the rope met at the bottom center of the glass. The rope will act to open the outer channel of the weatherstrip so that you can get the seal started onto the lip on the body. Third, set the glass in body opening with the tails of the rope on the inside of the car. Try to set it such that the bottom edge of the gasket is close to engaging the lip of the body. Fourth, get a helper to apply light pressure to the outside of the windshield and to prevent the outer lip of the seal from getting pinched. In my case, my wife was on the outside using a plastic spreader to guide the outer lip of the seal. Step four is performed by slowly pulling the end of the rope from the inside and guiding the inner lip of the seal over the lip of the body. Work slowly and evenly. Pull one end of the rope and then the other. When both ends of the rope have been pulled around to the center top, the windshield will be fully installed. Use the plastic spreader to guide the edges as required. The process sounds complicated, but was actually quite simple. I installed both the windshield and rear hatch glass in less than one hour with only minimal assistance from my wife. In my case, I did not reinstall the metal strips in the new weather strip. I don't like the way that they look, so I left them out. Some have said that the metal trim helps with the sealing function of the gasket. It probably does, but I have not noticed any leaks. In my case, the car only gets wet when I wash it.

Great video and one of my favorite Rush tunes. I've seen them on every tour since Moving Pictures. With a name like Cygnusx1, I should have known that you were a fellow Rush fan.

I am resurrecting this thread because I have made some significant changes to the car, and thought some might be interested in the changes in weight and balance. My original numbers were as follows(for full detail see the first post on this thread) Here are the results with 16 gallons of fuel and me (190LBs) in the car: LF = 648 Lb RF = 607 Lb LR = 751 Lb RR = 710 Lb. Total = 2716 Lb These were are my percentages: (LF + RF)/ Total = (648 + 607)/2716 X 100%= 46.2 percent on the front 53.8 % on the rear. (LF + RF)/ Total = (648 + 751)/2716 X 100% = 51.5 % on left and 48.5% on right. my diagonals were equal ie.. (LF + RR) = (RF + LR) -> (648 + 710) = (607 +751) = 1358. Since that time I have done the following: Redone the body (SubtleZ with customized air dam and hood). Changed from a 16 gallon RCI polyethelene tank to a 12 gallon ATL cell. The old tank was centered, and the new tank is offest to the right. Replaced the old lead acid battery with an Odyssey lightweight battery. Moved battery forward and down from behind rear passenger side wheel well to behind passenger seat. After all that, the final results were: LF = 669 Lb RF = 626 Lb LR = 714 Lb RR = 668 Lb. Total = 2677 Lb These were are my percentages: (LF + RF)/ Total = (669 + 626)/2677 X 100%= 48.4 percent on the front 51.6 % on the rear. (RF + RR)/ Total = (626 + 668)/2677 X 100% = 51.7 % on left and 48.3% on right. my diagonals were nearly equal ie.. (LF + RR) = (669 + 668)= 1337 (RF + LR) = (714 +626) = 1340.

Thanks for the compliments. After three years of work, they mean alot. The color is from a 1997 Acura NSX: Monte Carlo Blue Pearl Metallic. The paint system that was used was BASF Base Coat/Clear Coat. I am in the process of putting the car back together. I'll have some more photos in a few days.

A little more progress:

See page 62 for pilot bushing removal. http://books.google.com/books?id=1TFNJyxjMucC&pg=PA62&lpg=PA62&dq=ford+pilot+bushing+removal+grease&source=web&ots=dX6DpicsjM&sig=mS0syVTO9WERQTTdWyQO7oQXH-c#PPA1,M1

This is a very well timed thread. My car goes into the spray booth this weekend, and I plan to install my windshield and hatch glass in the next few weeks. My question is: Will the weatherstrip around the windows seal if you delete the chrome trim? I am not a big fan of it and would rather delete it altogether.

I just finished installing the SubtleZ kit, and I had similar needs. Here is what I did To build thickness in some areas: I ground away the gelcoat. I mixed West Systems Epoxy 105resin/205 hardener with West systems 403 chopped glass fibers. This is mixed to a consistency of cake icing and spread like body filler. Let it cure and then sand to shape. Then re-skim with a mixture of the Epoxy and West Systems 406 Colloidal Silica (finer texture). And then finish with Evercoat's metal glaze. The mixture of 403 and resin yields a strong hard (but textured) surface. The mixture of 406 and resin yields a finer texture but less strength, and the metal glaze yields a perfect surface. The good thing about using the resin chopped glass as a filler is that it has the same strength and flexibility as the base fiberglass.

Careless, I'm sorry if you took me seriously. I meant it as a joke. I realize full well that I open myself to criticism when I post my progress. Further, I appreciate and accept the criticism. I was not being defensive and I apologize for giving that impression.

Careless, You are entitled to your opinion, and quite frankly the vents are not my favorite feature of the car. I prefer them to the stock type vents. Oh, next time I want your opinion, Ill beat it out of you:twak:. Take care, Dan

The entire car (including the vents that are apparently such an eyesore) will be painted by the end of August. The car will be painted Monte Carlo Pearl Blue metallic. I am also planning a ghost stripe that starts in the air dam opening and continues out of the opening in the hood. The stripe will then fade into the hood.

I'm sorry, but what the heck are you doing driving around with cracked fuel lines. Replace the fuel line and filter. Check the oil level in the carbs and top as necessary with marvel mystery oil.

After a couple of months of work, I finally have the front end in primer. I think you will be able to see what the final product will look like. I hope to get this thing in a paint shop really soon.