74_5.0L_Z

Great video and one of my favorite Rush tunes. I've seen them on every tour since Moving Pictures. With a name like Cygnusx1, I should have known that you were a fellow Rush fan.

I am resurrecting this thread because I have made some significant changes to the car, and thought some might be interested in the changes in weight and balance. My original numbers were as follows(for full detail see the first post on this thread) Here are the results with 16 gallons of fuel and me (190LBs) in the car: LF = 648 Lb RF = 607 Lb LR = 751 Lb RR = 710 Lb. Total = 2716 Lb These were are my percentages: (LF + RF)/ Total = (648 + 607)/2716 X 100%= 46.2 percent on the front 53.8 % on the rear. (LF + RF)/ Total = (648 + 751)/2716 X 100% = 51.5 % on left and 48.5% on right. my diagonals were equal ie.. (LF + RR) = (RF + LR) -> (648 + 710) = (607 +751) = 1358. Since that time I have done the following: Redone the body (SubtleZ with customized air dam and hood). Changed from a 16 gallon RCI polyethelene tank to a 12 gallon ATL cell. The old tank was centered, and the new tank is offest to the right. Replaced the old lead acid battery with an Odyssey lightweight battery. Moved battery forward and down from behind rear passenger side wheel well to behind passenger seat. After all that, the final results were: LF = 669 Lb RF = 626 Lb LR = 714 Lb RR = 668 Lb. Total = 2677 Lb These were are my percentages: (LF + RF)/ Total = (669 + 626)/2677 X 100%= 48.4 percent on the front 51.6 % on the rear. (RF + RR)/ Total = (626 + 668)/2677 X 100% = 51.7 % on left and 48.3% on right. my diagonals were nearly equal ie.. (LF + RR) = (669 + 668)= 1337 (RF + LR) = (714 +626) = 1340.

Thanks for the compliments. After three years of work, they mean alot. The color is from a 1997 Acura NSX: Monte Carlo Blue Pearl Metallic. The paint system that was used was BASF Base Coat/Clear Coat. I am in the process of putting the car back together. I'll have some more photos in a few days.

A little more progress:

See page 62 for pilot bushing removal. http://books.google.com/books?id=1TFNJyxjMucC&pg=PA62&lpg=PA62&dq=ford+pilot+bushing+removal+grease&source=web&ots=dX6DpicsjM&sig=mS0syVTO9WERQTTdWyQO7oQXH-c#PPA1,M1

This is a very well timed thread. My car goes into the spray booth this weekend, and I plan to install my windshield and hatch glass in the next few weeks. My question is: Will the weatherstrip around the windows seal if you delete the chrome trim? I am not a big fan of it and would rather delete it altogether.

I just finished installing the SubtleZ kit, and I had similar needs. Here is what I did To build thickness in some areas: I ground away the gelcoat. I mixed West Systems Epoxy 105resin/205 hardener with West systems 403 chopped glass fibers. This is mixed to a consistency of cake icing and spread like body filler. Let it cure and then sand to shape. Then re-skim with a mixture of the Epoxy and West Systems 406 Colloidal Silica (finer texture). And then finish with Evercoat's metal glaze. The mixture of 403 and resin yields a strong hard (but textured) surface. The mixture of 406 and resin yields a finer texture but less strength, and the metal glaze yields a perfect surface. The good thing about using the resin chopped glass as a filler is that it has the same strength and flexibility as the base fiberglass.

Careless, I'm sorry if you took me seriously. I meant it as a joke. I realize full well that I open myself to criticism when I post my progress. Further, I appreciate and accept the criticism. I was not being defensive and I apologize for giving that impression.

Careless, You are entitled to your opinion, and quite frankly the vents are not my favorite feature of the car. I prefer them to the stock type vents. Oh, next time I want your opinion, Ill beat it out of you:twak:. Take care, Dan

The entire car (including the vents that are apparently such an eyesore) will be painted by the end of August. The car will be painted Monte Carlo Pearl Blue metallic. I am also planning a ghost stripe that starts in the air dam opening and continues out of the opening in the hood. The stripe will then fade into the hood.

I'm sorry, but what the heck are you doing driving around with cracked fuel lines. Replace the fuel line and filter. Check the oil level in the carbs and top as necessary with marvel mystery oil.

After a couple of months of work, I finally have the front end in primer. I think you will be able to see what the final product will look like. I hope to get this thing in a paint shop really soon.

I have 245/45/16 Hoosier A3S04 tires on my 16x8 wheels. They were an extremely tight fit under the stock fenders. They fit the wheel very well, but they are a canterlevered design. The car now has the SubtleZ body kit, and I am in the market for some 15x10 or 15x9.5" wheels so that I can run the new 275/35/15 form Hoosier.

Look at these links. They contain some really good info pertaining to the driveshaft parts, pieces, and build-up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=86748&highlight=Neapco http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=65652&highlight=Neapco http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=75332&highlight=U-joint Pay special attention to the topic of U-joint alignment as discussed by PPARASKA. If you do not have correct alignment of the U joints, you will experience some bad vibration issues.

Oh come on Rick! You are an instrumetation type guy. Are you so selfish that you are unwilling to put a few small holes in your hood? Hell, look at the hole I put in my hood. You wimp.

The vacuum advance will wake up the engine at low rpms. Generally you just run a vacuum hose from the distributor to the timed spark advance port on the front of the carburetor.