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Everything posted by 74_5.0L_Z
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Terry, I have Two Romac Dampers. The first is a 0241SA/50 on my current engine, and the second is an 0241SA/28 for the 331 that I am building. I am using the factory bolt/washer to retain them both. The factory washer is 1.75" in diameter and fits into the cavity onto the only flat that is present on either of mine. I would definately reduce the washer such that it sits on the suface nearest the end of the crank. Otherwise, the washer will deform and place radial force on the balancer.
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Understanding the numbers on the data sheets
74_5.0L_Z replied to Carl Beck's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
With the velocity and the frontal area known, lift and drag were measured. Then they were able to calculate the lift and drag coefficients from the measured lift and drag as well as the known velocity, air density, and frontal area. The coefficients, frontal area, and how they were affected by the various vehicle configurations is the information that was gathered. With some relatively minor changes, the crew took the Z car from a stock configuration that produced 288 lbs of lift and 309 lbs of drag at 120 mph (set-up 19) to a configuration that produced 108 lbs of downforce with only 275 lbs of drag (set-up 28). And they did all of this with minor add-ons. -
Understanding the numbers on the data sheets
74_5.0L_Z replied to Carl Beck's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
The lift coefficient CL relates the Lift to the available momentum of the fluid in a unitless fashion. CL=L/(1/2 x rho x V^2 x A) where L is lift rho is the density of air V is the free stream velocity of the air A is the frontal area As an example from our data, Run 1 lists the following values: L = 323.528 lbf rho at STP = 1.225 kg/m^3 (0.076 lbm/ft^3) V = 120 mph A = 18.5 ft^2 From these values and proper conversion of units, you can solve for CL CL = 323.528 lbf / (1/2 x 0.076 lbm/ft^3 x (120 mph)^2 x 18.5 ft ^2) The numerator of the equation has units of force and CL is a unitless value, therefore the denominator must be manipulated to get units of force. We can do this as follows: (1/2 x 0.076 lbm/ft^3 x (120 mph x 5280/3600)^2 x 18.5 ft ^2 / 32.174 = 678.5 lbf Therefore CL = 323.528 / 678.5 = 0.476 The important thing to realize is that CL is constant, so once determined it can be used to extrapolate values of lift for other velocities. L=CL x (1/2 x rho x V^2 x A) So say we want to know what the lift will be at 150 mph L = .476 x (1/2 x 0.076 lbm/ft^3 x (150 mph x 5280/3600)^2 x 18.5 ft ^2 / 32.174 = 505 lbf The lift at 150 mph for the vehicle in test set-up #1 will be 505 lbs and at 200 mph would be 899 lbs. The other unitless ratios Cd, Cy relate the drag force and yaw force to the same denominator used in the equation for CL. -
That water pump has the same pilot diameter as the stock 5.0L. Therefore you should have no problem in that area.
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It looks like that water pump will work quite well. It is designed for forward rotation and serpentine pulleys. Go to bed.
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The 302 is a 5.0L. Until 1982 all of the 302/5.0L were v belt forward rotation. After 1982 Ford and most other manufacturers went to the serpentine system. The post 1982 water pumps rotate counter-clockwise(opposite direction of the crank). The earlier 302 rotated clockwise (same direction as the crank). If you get the water pump from fordracingparts/summit you will be able to keep your current belt configuration. I believe that will also go a long way toward curing your overheating problem. BTW: What time is it in Kuwait?
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On a reverse rotation set-up, the engine rotates clockwise, and the water pump rotates counter-clockwise. If you get an older water pump (1969 ish) and timing chain cover, you can keep your current belt arrangement. Try this: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=5723
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You have two options: First, if you want to stay with a serpentine set-up you will need a fourth pulley to act as an idler. A setup like shown here works great and can be purchased as a complete setup. If you want that option visit http://www.marchperf.com. You could visit a junkyard and piece together a workable set-up. This option is time consuming but generally cheaper. The other option is to revert to the early style(1968-1975) water pump and timing chain.
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In a V-belt system the cross-section of the belt is a V, and all of the accessories (water pump, alternator, power steering pump) rotate the same direction. In a serpentine belt system, the belt is wide and flat. On the Mustang, the water pump is driven off the back of the belt and rotates the opposite direction relative to the crankshaft and alternator. If you look at the following picture (and the one I posted previously) you will see the routing of my serpentine belt. If you have the stock 1989 water pump and V-belts, you will not get good water circulation through any radiator, and the car will run hot. You might be better off spending your money on a serpentine belt system for your car like those offered by March Performance. Your other option is to get a water pump and timing chain cover from an early 302. With that option, you will be able to keep the same pulleys that you have. EDIT: Looking more closely at your picture, it looks like you have serpentine pulleys. It still looks like you are turning the water pump the wrong way.
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With the engine in the same position as mine, the stock 5.0L belt driven fan works great. Since I've angled my radiator, I've gone to an electric fan from a 1995 mustang. The electric fan works well, but a belt driven fan will always cool better. Looking at your picture, it looks like you dumped the serpentine belt set-up in favor of a v-belt. Did you switch to a forward rotation water pump? If not, that may explain your cooling issue. The late model (1982 -1993) 5.0L engines use a serpentine belt and a reverse rotation water pump. In 1994 and 1995 they kept the reverse rotation and serpentine, but went to a different timing chain cover and water pump that is 1.5" shorter. In my old set-up, I used the 82-93 water pump. I have since switched to the 95 style to gain clearance for my radiator/hood ducting. Oh yeah, the more expensive radiator is rated for cooling more horsepower. If in doubt go with the more expensive one. I am using the lesser of the two with no problems, but I am only making ~320 rwhp.
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I am using mounts of my own construction. The mounts in the stock sheet metal version used the ford 5.0L rubber motor mounts and some brackets that I made. The new version uses a front plate/mid plate setup. In both versions, the engine is in the same position: Centered left to right. Center of crank shaft even with top of frame rail at front of motor. Harmonic balancer centered above steering rack. Engine angled with front angled upward at 2.5 degrees. Drivers side head is 1" from fire wall.
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I use the Griffin 24 x 19 in my car with no problems at all, but my car also has a tube front end. I used the same engine combination in the previous version of the same car, and used a 280ZX turbo radiator without problems. I live in Florida where it gets pretty hot (high 90's F) but not nearly as hot as in Kuwait. I never tried to fit the Griffin radiator to the stock radiator core though I believe it will fit with a minimum of fabrication. It is 24" wide and 3" deep. The spacing between the factory frame rails is 25.125".
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74_5.0L_Z shamelessly emulates Terry Oxendales Hood
74_5.0L_Z replied to 74_5.0L_Z's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Craved, I am not 100% certain which way air will flow through those vents. They are a little forward of the cowl and outboard of the centerline of the car. They may or may not be in the high pressure area of the windshield base. Somone should do some wind tunnel work to find out. My main concern was to control the air coming through the front of the car. The hood that I started with (SubtleZ Cowl) had two holes like the later 280Z. I could have just filled them in, but I decided that additional vent paths for heat might be a good thing. So, I acquired the two small vent covers from Reaction Research and blended them in. -
74_5.0L_Z shamelessly emulates Terry Oxendales Hood
74_5.0L_Z replied to 74_5.0L_Z's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Thanks guys. I will line up the dzus fasteners when I finally secure them to the hood. Yes, those are factory FRP buckets. They are secured to the SubtleZ fenders using epoxy resin w/chopped glass filler (West Systems 406), the factory fasteners, the inner sides have been filleted to the fender using the same resin / glass mixtures, the seam was then ground down and refilled with epoxy/ glass, and finally the seam was covered with epoxy/ S-glass cloth. If it shows after the paint job I will be rather upset, but it would be a lot of work to change then now. -
74_5.0L_Z shamelessly emulates Terry Oxendales Hood
74_5.0L_Z replied to 74_5.0L_Z's topic in Body Kits & Paint
I used a closed cell foam from Michigan Composites. It isn't affected by the resin or other chemicals. I used two different thicknesses 1/4" and 3/8". The 1/4" is easily shaped into curves, and the laminated 3/8" gives good stiffness. The foam is yellowish in color. Yes, I did the SubtleZ rear flares as well. -
As the title says, I borrowed an idea from Terry. I hope that my car will someday look as good as his. I still have a bit of work to complete before its ready for paint. I post updates as I go along.
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Aerodyn wind tunnel results!!!
74_5.0L_Z replied to bjhines's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
Quote: Originally Posted by Daeron could this have been it? This was from 74_5.0L_Z's photo album here on hybridz.. but looking at it a second time, it s hard to see if it prevents that much air from traveling under the car.. obviously his setup forces it through the radiator, but the point is (seems to be?) to avoid it pushing below the car entirely, and leaving the airflow no choice but to go through the engine bay and then out the engine bay vents. I dunno if I am right nor not, but that was the car that *I* was thinking of regarding your comment, there, stony.. What you guys have not seen yet is that all the air that goes through the radiator comes out through the hood (I have shamelessly emulated BlueovalZ's hood). I have also closed in most of the gap between the top of the bumper feature and the bottom lip of the hood. I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow and start a separate thread. I don't want to pollute this one more than necessary. The radiator opening is sealed to the radiator with rubber gasket. The ledge between the bottom of the radiator and the front of the air dam is 18.5" wide by 21" deep. I'm hoping to take advantage of the high pressure area in front of the radiator. -
Aerodyn wind tunnel results!!!
74_5.0L_Z replied to bjhines's topic in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
One thing that I am interested in is the position of the center of pressure, and the effect the various modifications have on that position. For high speed stability, it is desirable to have the center of pressure behind the center of mass.