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West End did adjust the front STB at the strut mounting holes, for fine tuning camber changes and did not impact corner weight appreciably. I have the older EMI plates which are not fully slotted (future upgrade) but have specific adj mount points. Current camber set at -2.75 ft and -2.3 rr. Next hole adj at front would give -3.25, maybe too much for now.....but pyrometer readings will tell all on my first track day As far as weight distrib I'm excited about ATL 8 or 12 gal upgrade to mount below the floor offset towards the passenger side. Battery can remain at stock location. Anyone can comment on this 12 gal, I'm looking for short height for under-floor mount?

I'm starting at 1/2 inch lower front (rake) with the MSA dam and BRE rear spoiler. We'll see how this works out, if I need more wing and/or splitter. ACS will be a nice track to test aero/downforce (145+ front straight in M3). Report back soon.....

It'll be interesting when I start tracking this soon, been tracking for the past 7 yrs in the M3 and prior Subaru, and instructing some, always focusing on dialing susp, brakes, tires first before any engine mods. I might have to take different lines vs the M3, dunno, but definitely will try tighter lines since EVERYTHING seems to be more immed with the Z. Agree on most of the points, having the fuel cell lower and more to the pass side makes sense. Been looking into best ways to shield it away from passenger compartment. Loving the loud deep RB tones and as long as I'm not at MLS (Laguna Seca) no restrictions in my area, keeping the exhaust with just a resonator

1/2" longer than the 3.25" I have now, why would you need a set that long? What application? The shorter 100-7708 M12x1.50 are 2.5" long.

Extended studs that fit are these 'GM' 100-7713 (long version) fit perfectly. These have the 0.509" knurl diameter. Test fit on street wheels, hey it's a track set up.

The 'GM' extended studs 100-7713 fit perfectly, I suppose the hub I have is the 240Z version.

I'm about to install ARPs at least 2.5 in long, but obviously got the wrong knurl size, part 7716 fitting Subarus with .565 mm per some of the suggestions in these forums. I'm running S30 280Z hubs front and stock rear stub axles I believe (Wilwood disc upgrade). The Subaru studs are definitely wider at the knurled end, does NOT fit. Will get a micrometer to confirm the old stud size. Measured oem 280Z stud knurled diam at .507". Does this mean the above GM 7708 (2.5" long) or 7713 (3.25" long) will fit?

Since this thread is open, what recommendations can I get per my power and torque curve below? Still sorting out my build RB26 (stockish 8.7 lbs boost), stock Z32 5-spd and I believe 3.7 gearing. Start tracking it in 2015 and putting in a Quaife. So, what theoretical gearing will take me to 140+ (4th or 5th) typical at Auto Club Speedway front straight speeds, which I regularly reach in my tuned M3 and previous Stage 2 STi? Thanks guys.

Super detailed!! You're definitely very motivated and best of all....sharing! Need feedback on that AEM Series 2 once you've got it running, I'm looking for an upgrade to my RB26. Subscribing of course!

I like these vids. Straight 6 sounds are addicting! Local trackers, older vids. One of my sessions at home track ACS Fontana CA. High speed track, topping out at 145 on the front straight in the E46.

Yup, that 2100 lbs was just hopeful guessing on my part since the car is pretty much gutted. But that cage added quite a bit and some from the RB also. So, working backwards from my real corner balance weight of 2656 with me in it, 150 lbs, and about 10 gals gas, about 60 lbs, dry weight is appx 2440. The Wilwoods and Sparco seats are probably equal weights vs stockers. Will weigh my track wheels/tires soon to compare with those street Wats and Yoko ES100, which may add or subtract. I might invest in a fiberglass hood and better race buckets to reduce it some. Here's a short walkaround video of my baseline setup, as you can see I only have the dash cap with gauges mounted behind, 3" exh only with resonator, under dash wiring needs to be tucked in better:

The link G4+ huh? Let me research that. I'm also considering to replace/relocate the fuel cell with alum and mount it under the rear floor. Any thoughts? I know safety-wise removing it from the passenger compartment should be a wise idea. Again, my purpose is track days where we have open passing sessions, but I'd like to prep it for possible future local road races, NASA, etc. Inputs??

I'm setting up for ECU upgrade soon. Question for Wizard, since you're very familiar with AEM, do you recommend this, or any other reliable options for tracking with some sustained high rpm on local circuits? Haltech, Nistune? Below is my set up and MAF locations and ECU. Also my dyno results on AFR, consistent with no major peaks and valleys. Idles a little high at 1,200 but steady. Goal is 350whp. Can I ditch the MAFs since tight fit as is? My 'fun' track project is also in this RB forum, for more info.

You have lots of room, very nice! For now I'm running tuned SPL off the stock MAFs. The front/lower K&N is pointing down behind the radiator with about 1 inch poking under it, top is now fed this cooler air from the hose, best I could do so far. I'm going to full ECU upgrade next (Nistune?) and get rid of those MAFs. Still researching for best set up for tracking. Meanwhile, at least the 3 pulls were consistent with no huge dips in the chart. AFR is also nice and low.

Had to get corner balancing and alignment out of the way, to control this RB. West End again, Darin did xlnt work! Surprising I thought this car was closer to 2100 lbs, gutted, but with cage, myself (~150 lbs) and about 8 gals gas, came out as follows, hmm, need to get lighter. The Wats and ES1s are prob on the heavy side, but still....

I'd like to tie my front strut bars to the firewall. John C's set up at post #9 below is the best I've seen so far, with proper analysis. Hey John, did you use a local (to me also I hope) fabricator for the triangulated bar? Perhaps I can have the firewall attachment made, with rod end mounts, to complement my set up. This is to prepare for future power upgrades to the RB. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44660-who-makes-the-best-strut-bar/

Nice project starter, have pics of the interior with the certified cage and cell? I'm completing my setup, need ideas on where to put switches, etc. As for brakes, if you're planning to track, I'd just go with the entire AZC Wilwood conversion, plenty of stopping power and integrated with the proportioning valve. These things are very adjustable on rear bias. Brakes are top priority. ..and if that's your Javelin, sweet classic.

Looking for more cool air to pass thru to the top/rear K&N, found perfect sized 2" plumbing threaded couplers that fit into the radiator support hole, the flanges tightened around the metal support. This makes a great hose feeder, like the Summit Racing memory flex hose. Btw, I already have the vented 280Z hood.

Following your thread, nice inputs. What brand/type 4.11 will you use? I have the long nose R200 off Z31 on my RB '73 and about to put in the Quaife QDF7L. Might as well look for gearing that will keep me in my torque peak, before falling off at 5250, or keeping my foot in until past peak hp at 6100.

Interesting, rear fitment with R-comps, same size as street, 245/45/16, puts the 8" wheels, 0 offset, about 7-10 mm inwards of the flares. The 9.5" wide street Wats with the 'flush' -19 mm offset pushed them way out. BUT, shocking that the rear backspacing is almost identical, within 1 mm apart of the Grids! 16x8 vs 16x9.5 My goal is to fit 275s for tracking, different wheels of course, probably up to 17s since more tire avail. Anyone can share set ups with coilovers and stock control arms that work?

R3VO, let me know how your tach works out, mine's been very stable so far, it's a draw down resistor for Autometer tachs. BTW, here is my fitted track set up - Hankook Z214 R-comps and Rota Grids. I know some question Rota issues, but I've tracked these previously on my STi for over 4 years w/ no issues, tough wheels. Other track buds and race teams also use them. Currently tracking a Stage 1 E46 M3 that I'll try to match perf-wise as goal #1. M3 is putting out 285whp.

BTW the Autometer tach worked perfectly using this resistor bridged betw +12v and tach feed posts at the rear of the tach. No Tach Adapter needed.

First of, the interesting things you find out at dynos First issue, there were a couple of bolt holes at the bottom of the RB26 block where the RB25 reversed oil pan bolted up that weren't sealed so at above 4K rpm, oil would start to spray out. The RB25 pan has an outward kink for the stock pick up but since installed reversed it ended up at this side of the block, so existing bolt holes had to be addressed. Inserted threaded bolt as plugs, sealed and smoothed off the heads. Fixed. Second common minor issue, one of the intercooler silicone hoses weren't tight enough and car stumbled a bit afterwards. Fixed easily.

I'll keep updating here on my start-up project due to hit local tracks in 2015 like ACS, WSIR, Buttonwillow, etc. This will be a track "fun" project not for pro sanctions like SCCA, NASA etc, just tracking but at the same time logging improvements to seriously chase down higher hp, newer rides out there My goal is to get initial baselines and stepwise preps, and log gains and issues, while getting my RB26DETT Zilla sorted out. At least by now Baseline dyno was done, below runs were at just over 8.5 lbs boost with stock mafs on Dyno Dynamics (SAE corrected) taken at JER, Westminster CA For starters, performance mods: 6-pt Roll cage, EMI Racing coilovers, Tokico Illuminas, Wilwood discs, Cusco bar, Hankook R-comps, etc... (Note those Wats are not for tracking, too valuable) Thanks for looking....

This is great stuff, thanks for the details and process steps!! I might go this route for my semi-tracked Z, for now just the stock console with non-functional 'guts', have to cover up that bare tunnel.