dexter72

Are they not selling headlights at your local auto parts store anymore?. They have them at autozone, pepboys and so on.

Ignitor is on the left shock tower. Isn't that a boost sensor above the ignitor?. Looks definately factory turbo car to me. That tree messed Charlotte's Web up Big Time. Where was Wilber to dispose of that Tree.

If your just looking at the block with a head on it and no manifold. Turbo block has a knock sensor port at the 4th cylinder. The oil filter boss has an ear at each corner.

If you take your time you may be able to get the dents out with a rubber mallet from the inside. Look for a mallet that is large and rounded on the end. I did that with my 260Z years ago.

Besides checking all the valves and guides for issues. You need to check the backs of both variable timing sprockets. If the spot where the cam dowel pin goes is elongated, you will need a new one.

Zmancos setup is similar to yours, He has a bigger cam but the rest looks about the same. Check out his maps in the Faq section, under components.

Remove a couple of spark plugs and see if there wet. Maybe fuel fouled. Are the injectors working?. They should click during cranking. Have some crank it over and listen for them. Place a screw driver on the injectors and place your ear against the Handle end of the screw driver, listen for the injetors clicking. If no clicking they are not working. Try to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it runs. Yes the engine will run on both.

Of course putting a set of gauges on your a/c system is best. You can touch the low side hose with your hand and feel if it is getting cold. If not, the compressor could be bad or you have a blockage somewhere. Is the Siteglass clear and the is the system full?.

Are any battery to starter wires touching or rubbing through, on the signal wire?. Did you change how the ignition switch is getting power?. Any changes in wiring during megasquirt install?.

Diesel garage says there on Ford Diesel Trucks. 2003-2007, mounted under the fuse box. Would think they don't have a vacuum line going to them. 3 wires. So possibly other late model diesels have them as well.

Try swapping the injectors around and check plugs again. Don't know what engine you have.

A battery holdown is a must have, I agree with Rturbo. Unless you just bought it and never openned the hood is the only way, you would not see that bungee chord over top of the battery. Strike it up to lesson learned. Be happy you got the fire out quickly to lesson the damage.

Juan you should get some good assistance now that you have included good info. Nice.

Juan, Please start a new post with all the info that we talked about so others can help you. Remember you won't get much help if you don't include all the info and include the pics ok. Include what we talked about also and the post by CAMH too. I think we have already seen that you need a BIP in your megasquirt, if you don't want to solder one on your board you will need to add an external module. But you still need to make sure of that, so im not leading you in the wrong direction.

Do you have a wideband connected to your engine?. What does it read while its running rough?. Have you tried identifying what cylinder is missing?.

If you were going to do this, I would look at front axles from the Juke. I think its a tad smaller then a Rogue. The other thing to look at is that Nissans CVT trans is having some issues right now. Noisey Trans, Not moving, Slipping, They just upped the warrenty on them for 100k miles because of this. You may need a TCM and wiring harness from one of those vehicles also. Nissan CVT has about 6 harness connections to it. The AWD units are separate and not made into the trans. When you replace a Trans in any newer FWD nissan, it has to be Calibrated to the vehicle it is going in or it will not operated correctly. I am a tech at a nissan dealership. Just throwing what i know out to you.

What are you using to build it up?. Did you do the same thing to the black fender?.

Some build threads are in the L6 forums, Try doing some research in there.

Juan, I replied to your earlier posts in November of 2010. If you have not done what was suggested to you by myself or others from that post. You still have work to do. You may not be able to find anyone to do what you should have done, over a year and half ago. If you have done what was suggested then post what you have done and what is the problem that you are having.

It can go with the efi harness of the old engine.

Check all the battery and starter connections,Make sure they are not corroded and that they are tight. Make sure the battery is good. If they all check good. You can have a bad electrical part of the ignition switch or bad battery cables also.

I would get in touch with a couple of companies and find out how much they charge, to pack it and ship it for you.

I think if you could choose the tools that would be going into your tool box, it would be a lot better for you. A.A.I. in Arizona, has a set dollar amount that a student can spend on his tools. The student can then figure out what specific tools he wants. Either company has good products, The better thing to figure out is which tool trucks will stop buy where your going to be eventually working.

How is the fuel and fuel filter?. Is the fuel pump working?. Do you have fuel pressure?. I would also check those things. Yes, your engine will run on N/A electronics.

Have you adjusted the mixture screws on the carb, Adjusted timing, Checked for vacuum leaks, does dist have vacuum advance on it?. If not, you can increase timing. I would start with those things, then look at the carb again if you can't it to idle any lower then 1k.