m4xwellmurd3r

I think that chick is an absoute psycho that just wants to give you a hard time and try and force you to give her a hand full of free cash.

This is why where I have my car parked, I have the battery disconnected, and fuelpump disconnected. it'll never start unless you're smart enough to figure out what I did. besides. I think it's almost out of gas. it probably won't get far lol

for a turbo I would think a full 3in setup from the turbo to the muffler would be the best route.

that's what I was going to say. I would think it would be more important for the inlet and outlet sizes to be the same size as the rest of your system.

I dunno, you can spend a LOT of money leaving it stock. NOS dash? Rare stock parts that no one has anymore? lol you get the idea. best thing you can do. Find the most rust free car you can, WITHOUT any electrical problems. Even if the engine is shot, it saves you a TON of money and headaches. I know this personally haha. My 78 has a perfect body, 90-99% of the wiring harness has never been messed with (pulled up the carpet and gutted the interior, and ALL of the body's harness was still taped to the floor, with 30 year old duct tape) The engine has some issues to work out, but you know what? At least I don't have to hunt down a Phantom Short!

I think it would be pretty cool to have a turbo L series or stroker, or V-8 in a ZXR, I mean, they MADE those cars so they could use the wing in a race. Might as well give the car enough power to make use of that tail!

on older Z's the coil ran a lower voltage than 12v for Starting though, it would run on 12v. the ballast resistor would drop the voltage while running. When you're starting the car though, the resistor is bypassed. if the resistor is shot, then when you let go of the key from START to RUN the coil's voltage gets cut off totally. it's not a part of the coil, but hooked inline on a wire.

agreed, I was thinking it would be a pretty neat way to reshape the body of a Z.

if the afm wasn't there that's not how the car runs. Instead you get an idle that varies between about 400rpm and 800rpm, in a sort of pulsating way. in his case it sounds like his FPR is cranked way high like mine was. BUT you have to get a gauge to find out whether or not it's working

you have to remember though, Z's have crappy aerodynamics. there are VW's that run 9's with probably no more than 400-500hp (though, they only weigh like 1600-1700 lbs or less once they get into that bracket) anyways, I was talking to an old lady that came in to starbucks yesterday, she mentioned that they're re-paving the highway, and i said it's about time since in my Z I can feel all that crap in the road, snd she said "Oh! the one with the long nose right?" Apparently her son in Tuscon builds/races old datsun roadsters! AND I found out my regular customer Keri knows a little about Z's I was telling her some things about my car and she went "I know, I was there" hahaha

How to tell if you have a good cam or a bad cam Step one: Raise camshaft to an elevated level Step two: Drop camshaft onto concrete surface from elevated level Step three: If camshaft shatters, Congrats! It's a good cam! If not, then toss it, it's no good. I remmeber my dad told me that for VW's if the cam was good, they would break if you were to drop them, but if they were bad, they wouldn't break or crack. I suppose because the metal is so hard it becomes extremely brittle, where a bad cams metal is much softer and less brittle.

Hmm that's one of the things I never did pay attention to. I mean, taking a 4 point tire wrench and tighten it till it feels nice and snug always works good. Hell when I was 15 that was good enough on a 12.00s vw. anyways according to my 78 FSM (should be the same for all of them) it's 58-65 for steel wheels and 58-72 for aluminum wheels. SO, I would just tell them to tighten them to 60ft*lb

it sounds like MASSIVE corrosion on the water temp sensor and wires, or a locked up FPR (actually it could be this one, mine was locked at 100psi 100%locked and I couldn't even start the car because of how much it was flooding) I'm not quite sure what else it could be, except corrosion and corrosion. I suggest downloading the EFI Bible and grab your favorite multimeter and start doing tests

Hmm I'm interested in how these would look on a Z

yay! 1978 Datsun 280z Max Brown Phoenix, AZ

I think he coated it with a fiberglass resin.

...you guys don't notice the user who made the video? MJ did it. I'm pretty sure I'm in it too. I wish I had a better picture though

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ it's a knock detection/prevention system from the looks of it.

Turbo injectors will make your car run richer since they flow more. Also, Z's injectors are Batch Fired, meaning they all fire at the same time, so wire order really doesn't matter much.

holy hell dude, you REALLY screwed that finger up. that makes me cringe just looking at it *grabs my finger*

windshields are shatter proof so they don't explode like that and cause horrible injuries. side windows and rear windows don't need to have that sort of protection. windshields are required to be shatter proof in the states.

I know this may not be of much help, but on my bug when we installed my camber compensator, we coated the poly bushings (that slide against the axle housings) with a nice layer of antiseize. Also, we did the same with the shifter bushing for the same reason. Think it would help to do something similar for poly bushings on a Z?

ah ok, then I'm not sure where the RS200 is, but there is one in the movie.

the white ford escort must actually be the ford RS200 rally car that I read will be in the movie. it's NOT an escort though.

I thought windex was AMMONIA based, which is why you shouldnt use it on plastics. for paintball masks, you basically have to throw out a lense if you ever use windex on it due to it being a safety risk.