m4xwellmurd3r

lol I was thinking the exact same thing. It looked straighter than my 78 does.

XP no rotted hoses. all the fuel lines have been replaced and brake lines by the p/o. I replaced the lower rad hose, but it's collapsing (clogged rad i think) and that hose in the back near the tail light, it's not rotted somehow.

http://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00206wo2.jpg I like that idea for the window. It follows the roof line and has the shape of the coupes, but elongated.

yeah, the insurance company would scrap a Z that got suspension damage from being hit. there was someone talking about how the insurance wanted to total his Z because someone hit the tire, which caused it to ruin the suspension and tweak some stuff. just because it has a salvage, doesn't' mean it's junk. it just means you needa do a more thorough inspection before you buy and find out why it's got the salvage in the first place. the four mirrors thing is ridiculous though. what's the deal with that. 4 times the viewing space?

oh yeah, just wanted to add that this is my first Z ever. and I'm quite happy that I don't have to do metal work on her haha.

my ideal Z is this (unless I had all the money in the world) beat to HELL. shoddy paint, primer everywhere, bondo spots in a few places, totally stripped out interior, only the required gauges working, mis-matched color body panels, but an engine built to DESTROY everythin and a suspension setup to make it handle like it's on rails

it still wont' fix it. the problem with the intake is it's metal. it attaches to the head, which is metal. the gasket isn't a very good heat insulator, so the intake ends up becoming a heatsink. the problem isn't the lack of a crossflow design. I bookmarked the page I found the info on. http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7174&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=38c43990bedb28f24a541ca4f2603e3c&start=25

Yeah, mis-shifting and over reving an engine is NOT something that will make you live longer. I'm lucky that I haven't done it no matter how hard I drive, and no matter how fast I try to shift, but I know it's a very possible threat. I really hope it doesn't happen. Luckily one of my first upgrades is an MSD 6AL box.

I spent about 5 hours taking out all the interior panels in my Z. it was pretty fun. Found some pretty cool things and overall my Z's in better shape body wise than I thought. I don't really have anything I'll have to do any repair on rust wise at all. my passanger frame rail is crushed, but it's still solid. under all the panels it was 99.99% rust free, and from the looks of it, my speakers are still good. a LOT of stuff still looked new (the rear tail light housings, the fume box, the metal plate that covers the fume box, etc) judging by all the little coins and the xmas ornament, my Z hasn't been driven since at least X-mas of 1986 I didn't find ANY coins in it newer than the mid 80's so it seems like it sat for a long time. OH and the orange carpet I thought that was replaced, was the ORIGINAL BLACK carpet. that had faded so much it turned orange. and I always thought my carpet was just covered in grease and oil!! I took a lot of pictures this time. and I fixed the one dent my body had, in the left rear quarter panel. I just took a screwdriver and hammer and beat it out. its still there, but at least now it's not a deep dent. I'm sure if I spent more time, and had some sandpaper and primer I could make it perfect, but whatever. I'm going to be VERY lazy and NOT post any pictures here, but I will post my photobucket album link haha. so, for 900 bucks, I think I got a good deal, even though I've had to rebuild the head, I need a new radiator, and I need an engine rebuild. oh, about the radiator thing. I thought it was overheating due to the heater hoses being looped together. So I plugged them. After warming up the engine I noticed something for the first time. once the Tstat opens, if you rev the engine the lower rad hose collapses. I don't know if this is due to a plugged radiator or a bad hose, but it causes the engine to overheat. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v230/half_breed/My%20Z/?start=20 one last thing. Could someone tell me why my exhaust manifold is SILVER and not covered in rust? one of the pictures I took, has little spots of rust that look like it has some sort of coating that flaked off.

well you would have to find a way to make the intake and exhaust gaskets seperate, so the exhaust still works as a heatsink (otherwise you'll hurt the engine) I was thinking it would work if you also made some heat sheilding out of the same material.

this is a chest curl http://www.hur.fi/en/index.asp?prodName=Chest%20Curl

you could always modify one of the pods to have something else in it. like modify 3 gauges to use a single face plate that they mount to.

better idea http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/en_uk/kit-car/index.htm check out the last one it's a 3in diameter gauge

I was reading some information and found something interesting. Someone honda guys (hondata to be exact) made a 1/8th in teflon intake gasket to replace the stock gasket, along with some sort of plastic washers as well. they recorded an intake air drop of at most 30c, but from their graph, average of about 10c. It got me thinking. What if we were able to do the same with our Z? It would no doubt be trickier with our gasket being a single piece, but i'm sure someone would figure something out. anyways, I found that teflon isn't the best material to make it out of, and I looked on McMaster Carrs for material. Looks like PPO is the best material to make it out of, since it has a maximum operating temp of 220F with a max temp of 300F It also made me remember my dads friends VW bug with a draw through turbo pulling on a single webber. the intake manifold from the carb to the turbo, after a single pass, was ICE COLD. i mean cold as in, on a hot summer day there was condensation forming on it and it was cold to the touch. actually it was probably as cold as the can of soda I was holding in my hand at the time. would something like this even be feasible to do on a Z's L6? And I apologize if I'm speaking utter nonsense and should shut up

I'm not sure but it might be to counter having the driver in the car. Someone was having some alignment issues with their Z, and the alignment left to right is completely different all around (not symetrical at all) and that's normal. actually the only thing wrong with his was his left rear (i think) was a bit toed for one reason or another. I thought it was really weird that the alignment was so different between left and right. so by making that left side longer it could make it shift to the right I suppose. I'd go with taking out that spacer and see what happens.

the bad part is what was wrong with his car. he said the CAS had a leak and though it was a bad headgasket so he dumped that stuff into his engine. Guess what the culprit of his leaky cas was. His oring had popped out of place, and a new oring or simply re-seating the ring would've fixed the problem. Another Copex? eh, he didn't do anything too dumb....just dump a bottle of copper dust into his engine XP this post made me lol even more just imagining the picture http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showpost.php?p=263673&postcount=155

well not just that but the big flame is also a production of the anti lag system that's in there that causes the spark to ignite on the exhaust stroke. which is how they keep that 1-2bar of pressure at idle. DEFINITELY not somethin you want on a street car if you want to keep your exhaust system and turbo haha. I see why they would vent to atmosphere though. if it's making 1+ bar at idle, if you were to vent back into the intake the pressure would cause quite a lot of issues wouldn't it.

probably because the Z is sporty, and has TONS of room to add batteries without hurting its weight distribution.

you don't need the developer toolbar, but it makes it easier. you can get to the config area of firefox by typing about:config in the address bar.

I got 3 wrong. NOT BAD considering I really don't know too much about V8 engines, only very mild things. so a bit of guessing got me through with only missing 3 haha

Yeah, it makes sense to plug it. I smacked myself in the face when i realized how stupid I was when I was trying to diagnose my cooling issues. I do wonder though, if re-routing that back plug to go back into the radiator directly, if that would somehow help with cooling the engine. or maybe re-route it to go to the lower T-stat housing.

if I ever went parts pulling at a junkyard, I'd bring my toolbox, which has metric sockets and wrenches from a few mm up to 22mm, and a hammer, and a nice full can of PB Blaster.

that's because on the later 280z's, the fuel rail is a single peice of metal, and the T for the cold start injector is built into the fuel rail. older 280z's had the fuel rail built in sections with tubing holding them together. the one you showed is for the early model, and the one you're talking about on ebay is a later model.

the ECU in the Z's are dumb. litterally. a calculator is smarter than them. so there's no way to use the ECU to govern the car. there could however, be a way to mechanically govern it based off the speedo cable speed. and do the rpm test. that's also a good thing to test, though at 85 in 4th gear, the rpm isn't too high i don't think. it's even lower in 5th obviously

yeah, that sounds like someone really did govern it somehow. a Z can do 90 in 3rd gear (i've done it in my 78 haha). run it up as fast as you can into 3rd. if it is really governed it'll totally stop at 85 then once you shift into 4th it should totally stop accelerating at whatever RPM 85 is. that will totally eliminate any chance of it being a power issue, and being truly governed