m4xwellmurd3r

I counted about 236 give or take a few. I'm at about 200 even. though I don't have hard drive space to keep that much stuff. from the looks of it you have at a MINIMUM of 1 terabyte worth of stuff o_o i've watch all the stuff i have over the years. http://myanimelist.net/animelist/nenkitsune

wow so there are other Z owners that watch anime? I probably have you all beat though. from the looks of how my car is right now I might end up buying a storage unit to do work on her myself >_<

Has anyone done an SR20 swap into a CRX? I think THAT would be pretty sweet, AND it would actually be fitting considering this is HYBRID Z lol.

The time and effort it would take to make that spoiler work is far too much to be worth it in the slightest bit IMO. and I agree he REALLY needs to get that refund.

he IS running "aftermarket" Axles. he has 300zx axles now, which weren't stock. Axle retention device..not sure what that means. Do they mean something so if the axle blows it won't beat around and potentially fly off the car?

I can see the smaller bolts that thread into the head being a bit on the short side, but the ones that go through the head and into the block shouldn't be affected since you take .080 out of the head and add .080 to the cam tower. .080-.080=0.00 right?

Go Triumph! If i ever got one though, it would have to be the old school Bonneville haha.

it probably destroys the engine, and destroys the frame as well. if the engine block itself isn't shattered from being ripped out like that then the frame itself becomes twisted and ripped even MORE than it would already be. Because it's either the block or the mounts that give first. and considering how much force it would take to rip an engine out like that, I'd say it does so much damage that the only thing the engine would be good for is an anchor. That is, till it falls apart from the numerous cracks put into it.

wait...but if you shave the head .080 then put .080 shims under the towers, wouldn't the overall hight between the block deck and cam tower be the same? i'm probably wrong, since I don't know the exact specifics of it all, but as far as I know, what you do is shim the cam tower back up to the stock hight, so wouldn't that mean that the bolts still grab into the block the same?

there's what, like 6 bolts that hold it on right? whenever I had to replace the clutch on my old VW, i just did it by having the ratchet on the end then facing the length of it towards the center, then pulling it up (or down, depending on the side) in a way where the torque is applied in a fashion that negates the flywheel from turning. kind of like how you put a tire on a car while the wheel is freewheeling in the air with no brake on. doing it this way becomes harder as the bolts get closer to the center, but it'll work as long as it's not something like a gland nut dead center.

I hope no Z ever has to see that car gutter. and that Z looked like it had a lot of good body panels. I would've stripped it to the unibody, hacked off all the good parts, and stored them away. Never know when someone might need a body panel, or when even you might need it.

also it's not an L28DET. that would mean that it's a dual overhead cam engine. it's just an L28ET

I see what looks like oil lines hooked up to his fender wall.

Gah. i'm all tweaked after episode 7. the Z went BOOM

if I had the money and time I would SO build an electric Z. I really don't drive too much. considering I live NEXT DOOR to work. So really i only would be driving like 10-20 miles TOTAL a day.

SVO is the best stuff to use if you want to be cheap. Straight Vegetable Oil. on mythbusters they wanted to see how well it would work in an 80's deisel car. it got slightly less MPG (not too much) BUT ran perfectly fine. and they did NOTHING to the vegetable oil. All they did was filter out all the nasty chunks that get into it. Honestly, if cost of gas was an issue, I'd swap out even a stock LD28 into my 280z and run SVO. Fast food places are EVERYWHERE and normally they PAY people to take all their used veggie oil away. In a way, you're doing them a favor by taking their used oil. but straight veggie oil WILL work in a stock unmodified car, without ANY problems besides a slight decrease in efficiency and probably a slight drop in power. BUT if you want to save money, go for it.

that's what I was thinking, but at the same time, I'm sure it would help a great deal without having to go with ITB's

I think I know why your car sputters and runs bad when you're in front of hot girls. She's jealous of you looking at them. And why does she smoke mustangs? To show you what SHE can do hahaha.

there are some that go 100+ too.

if ANYONE does that to my Z, I'll make sure as hell that I get the cops involved. that kind of crap REALLY pisses me off. I can't believe the lack of respect and lack of common sense kids have these days (and i'm only 19) the WORSE I ever did as a kid, was accidentally lose a wall ball in the street and it hit a car. driver didn't notice.

that body would be a great rat rod. Put on some cool rims and rig up some head lights, and leave the interior as bare as you can buy maintain the necessities. it can have all the gofast suspension and engine work, but the engine bay especially can look like the biggest POS ever. I've never been one to care much for clean engines as long as it runs like a champ haha. Hell, my car in its current state will probably turn into something similar to a rat rod.

Yeah, haha worlds most expensive rat rod. But that's the whole rat rod look. Run down and decrepit junkyard survivor look, but maintaining performance and function basically, drag out the sorriest looking Z you can, weld in some steel panels for fixing the floors if they have holes, make sure all the bushings are nice, and make the engine run like new but without it looking pretty

I wonder how much that plenum would help an N/A Z's engine out haha

For header builders that kit looks like it would be a life saver. No more wasting metal and having to cut welds and modify tubing to get them just right. just play lego's for a bit, pull it off, and there you go. you have your header all mocked up and now you can build just ONE header ONE time and it'll fit perfect. It does cost a lot, but say you build custom headers for 200 a peice and you sell 10 sets. you've now made a profit AND saved yourself a ton of time and materials.

I doin't think you can use an S130 gas tank in a 260. I'm pretty sure you'll need a 280z tank or a late 260z EFI tank. as for not getting fuel, you should replace the filter anyways, and get a fuel pressure gauge