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FlatBlack

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Everything posted by FlatBlack

  1. WTF are you talking about? I was talking about Subaru driveshaft u-joints, which the dealership told me were 'non-replacable' but a driveshaft shop did it for me [Thus relating Nissan's "non-replaceable u-joint" to another Japanese make]. He mentioned NAPA and Victoria British/Black Dragon in the OP, bra.
  2. I'm not running an IAC at all on mine either - the only issue is at startup on super cold mornings. I don't mind not having it, just depends if you want to put in the work. I personally don't mind a lumpy idle at cold start, and I definitely didn't want that gawdy IAC on my shaved manifold Snow - I read Matt's idle tuning article, and using his methods for spark and VE at the lower regions of the map really cleaned up my idle, and no more hunting. Have you read it/played with it yet?
  3. x2 - I've rebuilt both sides of at least three halfshafts on my 78s. Haven't looked into the driveshaft u-joint, but my Subaru has "non-replaceable u-joints" that I had replaced by a local driveshaft shop. I just converted to a different type with the same dimensions.
  4. VERY interested in what DIYAT is going to do about that - I've had two faulty relay boards. I have had to bypass at least 4 wires on my engine harness to go from the DB37 cable to the engine harness because of my latest relay board [bought new one year ago assembled from DIYAT].
  5. I think it's time for new spark plugs, but I'm going to try some of these out tonight! Thanks Matt.
  6. I have an Orbital deep cycle in my car - I lost my alternator some time ago, but didn't realise it. MS wasn't outputting any spark on the 8V the Orbital was putting out when it was half dead, but a jump gave enough juice to start the car. A charged battery might be the answer. [i replaced the alternator and the car runs like a champ again].
  7. Rob.... I will include dropping resistors with the harness you've been asking to buy. Let me know.
  8. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productlist.php?vehicleid=11
  9. "EFI wiring harness Shift Knob Clutch Fork & Throwout bearing" I've got these. The harness is from a 78, the shift knob is off a 5-Speed, and the TOB is for a stock 225mm clutch L28. PM me for details. [i think you already asked about the harness?]
  10. I told you I would give you my flat top tune... and that it was running on my L28ET? Also, if you have enough wire, I'd move it back to where I have mine. [This pic is of the old car/old wiring].
  11. Some of your initial settings are wrong, the size of your injectors should not be related to your fuses blowing out.
  12. I'm sure I'll be asking you some Q's regarding M.S. if you don't mind. I'm almost done with the cancer removal, Iv'e completed my dash rebuild and am getting ready to start in the engine bay getting ready to get her running.

  13. Yea, I finally found what I was looking for. I was actually lookinh for the exact block# and head# you used. I know it was a flat top but it really depends on the #'s the block and head wont work with a turbo set up and the ones you used do with limited capabilities. I have decided to just buy a complete turbo motor from a 82-83 and upgrade the turbo, injectors, F. pumpand add FMIC and run ...

  14. Hey Flatty loved your thread on the N/A to Turbo but had a simple question which I could not find through reading your thread and the threads thru the links you had but which block and head did you turbo. I have a 78 280Z which I was originally going to buy and swap in a RB20DET but have reconsidered as I am going to need cash for other MODS in near future. I have a N42 Block and N47 Head. Thanks

  15. I popped an axle U-Joint on Friday afternoon. I pulled the axle, got the U-Joint replaced, and the axle back in the car in under 2 hours. All you need is 2 14mm open end spanners to get the axle off the car. I used some sockets, and hammer, and a vice to replace the U-Joint in my garage. The U-Joint at a local parts store was $9. That's what I recommend.
  16. Why would you buy a Jeep if it's 2WD? I guess the Comanche makes some sense as purely a tow rig, but I would never buy a 2WD Cherokee.
  17. orly I have been very pleased with mine. Also drove through a river with water up to my windscreen pretty easily. :shrugs: Not sure that I'd want a stock one though.
  18. I have an XJ, not a Wrangler. The bench folds down in the back and I've comfortably fit 4 jeep wheels/tires and 4 Audi wheels/tires in there at once. I think the space will be adequate in terms of tools/wheel real estate. I've not towed with it, but I find the 4.0L in my 4x4 Cherokee is much peppier than the KA24E that was in the 4x4 hardbody I was going to get before I decided on the Jeep. Like Josh, I have a pretty much straight, level shot on the interstate to my racetrack.
  19. I'm in the same boat as you. Going to start towing the Zed next season. Luckily I have a 4.0L Jeep, and an extra set of street tires for when I tow. It's very docile around town, really light for a truck [~3100 stock], and even with a 4" lift and buckshots it's not a pain or loud to drive around as a DD. Gas mileage isn't fantastic, but could be much worse with a V8. My $0.02
  20. 1978 Datsun 280Z - purchased spring 2007 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo - purchased spring 2009 1978 Datsun 280Z - purchased Fall 2010 Parts cars: 1978 Datsun 280Z [black] - Sold 1978 Datsun 280Z [silver] - Parted 1981 Datsun 280ZX N/A Auto [black]- Parted
  21. Sorry I couldn't make it out this year. Subbie BHG'd and I was trying to stay away from the bike scene. Glad to hear of your success! I had an open R200 but I don't think that would've helped you.
  22. You have huevos grande... Driving home with possible metal shards threatening your GT35R haha. Glad you made it home. Hope your head and terbeaux made it!
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