jpndave

If I was buying a machine in this range and didn't care about it doing TIG, I'd buy a Miller 211 (like I said, I'm Blue). However for the money, the Lincoln 210 will do everything that the 211 will and has TIG capability. That's what I'd get. If I had to save a little longer, so be it. If you are scabbing together farm parts or a trailer or something rough, maybe you could get by but we're talking permanent restoration here and maybe some delicate fabrications down the road. A cheap machine is just going to be a frustration. Once you have used a good machine it's really hard to fight with junk. My 350P is pretty much the ultimate for this stuff but WAY out of the price range you are talking and honestly for the things you are wanting to do the 210 will be perfect, you probably wouldn't know the difference. With all the automation and simplicity, it might even be better. However, I am looking forward to playing with the pulsar on my sheet metal in the Z, just need some time. That's one of my justifications for picking up that machine, that and I got it for a song. The 250 I had welded beautifully. Oh, and get a cylinder. I know I mentioned the flux core works on those machines but you'll get better welds and be a lot happier with gas. I have a bit more experience with them and that helps. Omar, I might have a tank here I could let go. I own all of mine and have a few tricks to get another if need be. I have been shifting all mine to the larger sizes and likely have one that would be perfect for your needs. I like keeping a spare on hand as you always seem to run out on a weekend when they are closed and it's also nice to back purge things too.

I'd stick to a name brand, better machine even if it costs a little more. The Lincoln 210 machine is nearly impossible to beat right now - and I'm a Miller Blue guy. I have a Dynasty 200DX for TIG and a 350P for MIG. Love the TIG but that MIG has a lot more capacity. Aluminum is tough as it draws heat away so fast. You need a really powerful machine if you are going to do any thickness to speak of. Argon or a mixed gas for steel is really the only way to go but gets expensive especially for TIG work even where I can buy it a fraction of retail. The Inverter machines have come a long way, that's all I own now. Gave my 250 to my dad when I got the 350P. I'd stay away from the cheaper machines. I welded up a complete exhaust in Hawaii with a Miller 211 using flux core wire. I kept telling my friend that he needed to get gas up there so I could do decent welds and I was quite surprised that the flux core did fine in that machine. I've used flux core before when I was starting out in the 220 volt starter model Miller and had a horrible go of it. That 211 just compensated and ran great. More spatter but the welds turned out fine. Would they have been better with gas? I'm sure, definitely would have saved my clothes from as much spatter but it did the job much better than expected. I was impressed by that little machine.

I have been flashed even with a high quality hood. My TIG hood is really good, It's a Miller but has a custom Hockey Mask finish so it doesn't get used for anything that will spatter. Has more sensors. Usually when you get flashed it's because the sensors are obscured and it can't catch it fast enough. On a harbor freight unit? No comment.

Like JD said, I have connections.

Give me a call and we'll discuss options. I really wouldn't do that cheap machine. I had a 220V Miller (their "cheap" one) and even that wasn't great. There are some dual voltage machines available that will do decent welds even on flux core (thought gas is always better if you can). Easier to talk it through than type it out.

I've seen a few full Voodoo packages cycle through eBay. Spendy but they're starting to show up. I'm sure prices will come down considerably but fully expect it won't be cheap.

Only small steps lately as I'm building a new house with a little nicer garage/shop attached. Has consumed most Z time. 1969honda and I have been working on the rear a bit. Have the aluminum carrier and he has a complete sub assembly we're going to pull at least the pickup points from. Looking at possibly using hubs and brakes as well. We'll see how it goes. Grabbed a fiberglass spoiler like my old urethane to build on, rockers and some extra new front lenses. Also, parts for a rotisserie. As soon as this house is out of the way and I can focus on more important things I'd really like to get the bodywork package here and the chassis up on the rotisserie.

Glad you making some progress on the old girl!

I'm headed into wiring mode which means better pricing for that stuff. I'll have more free time if I can get this blasted house on track. Twins might package up better. Things are pretty tight down in that tunnel. I'm worried about just the T56 Magnum and two exhaust pipes let alone turbos! Plenty of room up front for intercoolers, etc. What power level are you thinking? It could get crazy in a hurry with a little adjustment to the wastegate.

I like this new direction! I think the turbo is a much better fit for a Z, you need the top end more than down low with these light cars. Same reason I like the Voodoo idea so much. And, I know this guy with a tig that can help out on those fabbed parts...

That should do nicely! Much, much better choice!

A 22RE Xtra cab Toyota 4x4 like Marty's would fit the bill nicely. I pay double the project price just to have that piece of mind and reliability.

My experience with these conversion projects is that they take a lot to do, maintain and just plain work right. Don't get me wrong I'm all for a cool project and like I said, I have done A LOT of them over the years. I have way too many going now (I have been giving myself this same talk lately). However, for what you are stating you want to use this for, I'd steer clear. You'd be better off buying an old Chevy/GMC/Ford/Dodge than the conversion or better yet just keep watching for the right 22RE you originally wanted. You've already got a project in the Z and unless you really want another... Looking at the photos, I see quite a few signs of questionable construction but it's hard to tell for sure in the photos. Chains used as support? I've seen it done (particularly on choppers) and look quite cool if you are into that sort of thing but not as a driver. IMO the only reason to EVER use a 307 in a conversion is because you had it, that also really dates the engine unless recently refreshed. And again, why go to the effort on a 307 when a 350 is so common and just plain better all around? I'm not a fan of that air filter assembly, had one years and years ago and replaced it. The parts in that project are all really, really dated. No grille is just asking for a rock to take out that radiator which came from who knows what. Does he have a list of what and how this was cobbled or put together (could go either way)? What do you buy for a replacement part when that time comes? Hate to throw a wet blanket, maybe I'm totally wrong, maybe the deal is done. Again, just my opinion. Good Luck! BTW, it was nice talking to you over the holidays.

Go the GM route. You'll need it for that killer sound system we talked about!

Nice to hear you are making some progress. I have several various years of those ignition switches if you want to compare. I'll be using my '73 most likely.

Very nicely done!

Looking really nice. I'm intrigued by the wiring harness. I think I might like to go a similar route.

Let me know. The pads were a special compound and have almost no miles on them. I'd see how they go. I have an early and late 240 grille at least. That engine was a screamer for a 6. It was fun to drive and really liked to rev with the cam, balancing and other work on it. You could always megasquirt it later after you get her on the road. I have a 5 speed trans out of a 280 and a spare rear you can have. I'm not shure what condition they are in. The parts that are in my car should be good. I have a unilite on that engine and I'll have to look to see what else. These cars are a slippery slope. I'm going to try and get the engine out in the next bit. Car need to roll for a little bit but I have the makings for a rotisserie. JD and I have been working on 8.8 and rear suspension ideas a bit. I think we're headed in the right direction there. I'll have quite a few spares you can have from my car if you stay more stock with this one.

Get with me before you order this stuff. I may have some of it and also have the upgraded toyota front brakes. All coming off my car with the engine (and the Triple Webers), trans, etc. I think my airdam & spoiler are the Xenon and I might have a grille too. The project sounds like it's coming along!

Not yet. I'm sure it will be hard to find and expensive. I am searching now. Progress has bee slow due to building a new house/shop. I'll put a Coyote in there to get by until I can source the Voodoo if I have to. Rear pattern is the same. I'm sure I can make money on a Coyote long term. I already have some of the necessary parts for the upgrade on a F150 based engine. They can be had really cheap. Rods, cams, a few covers and maybe some port work and your over what a Mustang would be. HPTuners (which I already have along with Ford credits) will flash the ECM on either.

Nice! and you're doing that on 400rwhp?

I thought about getting all my seals but they're likely gone by now. Need to catch you sometime and see that new purchase!

I like that idea. Plenty of room out front. If you're not running powersteering, it should be able to just replace that pully location and save the additional belt.

It's so cool how you can now "build" the part before you actually build the part,

Nice! Great deal on some really cool parts.