Nizm0Zed

Stock alternator?!?! On Hybrids???? Dont worry, it is getting upgraded. Stereo will be minimal, and the 1000w is at full load on the heater. I'll be able to adjust the load on it. It'll only need full heat for a short period (2 mins at most) to demist the screen and add a little heat. After that, it'll run just fine at half or quarter power. Thats the main wiring distribution block. the heater will sit pretty much above it. you are right though, it is going to be a big load. I may consider pulling a core or two from the box, i'll have to see how effective it is first though. its getting colder here now, maybe i'll jerry something up for a test run.

well, we can see that dpwong knows how to quote. Perhaps next time he'll chose to add something too... Yes, im a Canberra boy too, i am on southside and work in a parts store in Fyshwick. As for 'random' things in the wheelie bins, i once disposed of an entire bare car shell in one. Peice by peice, over a period of about 6 months. They clued on near the end and sent me a council warning

Ahhh, Canberra bloke huh? Your wheelie bins give it away.....

lol, yes there will be a significant power draw. In my setup, my battery (gel cell) is mounted under the dash. There is a distribution block in the centre of the firewall above the tunnel, with a 4 gauge power wire running in. The heater has its own dedicated 8 gauge power connection. It doesnt get cold enough to snow here (well, maybe 1-2 days a year, and only overnight) so it should cope well.

So are these for sale from somewhere? Or is it just a pretty picture????

I'll be running an electric heater in mine. i need it for rego requirements, but getting a bit of heat out would be nice too. I got my inspiration from here http://www.evconvert.com/eve/bring-on-the-heat i bought 4 small heater units and stripped the cores out of them. I got them pretty cheap as we supply them through work. I'll fab up a metal box and wire the cores in. Im planning on wiring them up in 2 pairs, so i can have a low and high heat setting. I'll use a couple of PC fans on the backside of the box to force air through the cores. in the end, i should end up with almost 1000W worth of heater under my dash. hopefully nothing catches fire...

Best advice after starting in the 'field of managment' given to me by a guy further up. "Everyone has their own agenda, remember that, and never forget yours"

those first seats look like Drift Blade's http://www.shopdrift.com/Products/D1-3001/BladeSeat-Black.aspx AFAIK that is in US dollars per seat, might wanna confirm though. We sell them at work (approx $600AU each), and the quality is pretty damn good. As someone said, they are a 'copy' of the R34 GT-R seats, and very comfortable too.

lol. I like this one too.

I dont put much thought into it, i ride a bike. So i figure i'll either plant my bike into something doing some dangerous speed or stupid maneuver, or in the datto doing the same thing with about the same results.

nice... But you didn't replace his head with an Elvis one????

I just told fraser that mine was a 240z. Seeing as its a 260 2 seater, its pretty much exactly the same when it comes to their panels.

yup, looks right. You'll also need a clutch master cylinder, hydraulic lines, gearbox, flywheel and clutch, different tailshaft. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81941 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=83607 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80308 search and ye shall find.....

The way Fraser explained it to me with those doors is that you simply cut off the frame at the top, drill your mounting holes and place the whole chrome metal window frame from your old door into it. Then mount up your mech. inside and you have working windows. The things you need to consider with those glass doors though is the strength of the mounting points of components. You'll need to keep an eye on the mounts for the winder assembly and the outer door handle assembly. They are very likey to crack the fibreglass where they bolt on due to the stresses during operation.

If $600 seems a bit steep on gauges, price up the whole set from Autometer or some of the other companies. It'll almost double the cost. I was going to 'put up' with a non matching speedo and a couple of autometer gauges till i saw the speedhut stuff. Now i have a reason to save up some money. From what ive seen, the speedhut stuff is better quality than the autometer gear anyway.

Ive been looking into this too, i have a spare Cobra race bucket in the shed thats getting requsitioned for the project. Looks like the Logitec G25 is the wheel of choice. The G27 is better, but most people are saying its not worth the extra money for buttons you will more than likely never use. Anyways, some more inspiration for you. http://boardsus.playstation.com/playstation/board/message?board.id=granturismo&thread.id=99507&view=by_date_ascending&page=1 (awesome discussion and pics) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqZsW-uU5B4&feature=related (just EPIC!!!)

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122238

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150039 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105666&page=5 http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=93 I am looking into this at the moment, just waiting for some spare cash to free up. Have a read of the first two threads. There is a good discussion on here regarding the bearing design. Some are crap and flog out quickly, others are very good and you should try to get them. The items from ground control look like one of the best bolt in jobs you can get.

get in touch with speedhut directly, talk it over with them. Shouldnt cost you much at all to get them sent back, They can have a look and repair if necesarry. If you have any of your purchasing documentation, includa a copy, they may do it under warranty for you.

does that factory sandwich adaptor have a thermatic valve in it? Or does it divert all the oil through it at all times?

its surprisingly easy to drift a truck like that on icy roads. The slippery surface was consitent, and they have a decent wheelbase on them, add into the perfect gear for the occasion and you just get it where you want and feather the throttle. Would have been crazy being in one of those cars waiting to enter, seeing a semi cruise past on oppisite lock...

lol. I sense he is not a subtle driver at all.....

yea, gotta agree there, there is something else causing the mount failure. you need to isolate/repair that. The other option to look at if its a competition car is to hard mount the engine, It'll make it noisier in the cabin, and a bit harsher to drive, but you wont loose any torque with twisting mounts. May help to squeeze a little more performance out of it.

http://cs.scaleautomag.com/scacs/forums/t/51119.aspx?PageIndex=1 Have a look at this, there is 28 or so pages and its still not finished, the attention to detail is unf$%king beleivable!!!! I have some spare model bits lying around and im gettin an urge to build something, but wow, i wish i could do one as good as this.

yup. The conrod moving up the bore is running at an angle, the offset pin in the piston is to help stop the piston from 'twisting over' in the bore. If you have it the wrong way round, its going to do the opposite and amplify the twisting over effect. I would expect to see busted skirts, busted piston crowns, massive wear in one side of the bore, and probably excessive blow by very quickly.