Nizm0Zed

huh? a book full of scrap? I allready have a car shaped pile in the shed.... Id have to agree, glue it to the gearknob, or maybe next to the vin plate.

wait till the tide goes out????

FARK ME!!!! That looks tough as.... It needs some small round lights hidden behind the grille, next to the main lights, pretty much in line with the holes in the radiator support panel. You can sort of see what it'd look like in the first pic where the hole is semi visible.

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this thread is full of win i have had an awesome laugh out of it, top effort

I see quite a few issues there. 1. the oil drain lines. There would be next to no drainage at all. this'll cause the oil to cook the bearings on the turbo's. They are also a massive snag hazard. ANYTHING going under the truck has the potential to grab it. Could be as simple as someone in front loosing something off their load and having no time to swerve. Could even be some unlucky wildlife that thinks the headlights look pretty late one night. 2. the BOV's. They are full atmosphere venting units. they will potentially draw in any dirty air or contaminants from under the truck. im sure that'll be great for the lifespan of the BOV pistons and everything else in the inlet track. 3. The Turbo's themselves, more importantly the exhaust housings of them. I dont think a large mass of high temperature metal would like something simple like driving through a puddle. if you get enough localised cooling on the housing (water splash) you'll crack the housings. It can happen in an engine bay, shouldn't take long under there. They are also a potential fire hazard. If they get hot enough, they could ignite anything that the truck parks on top of, even as simple as taking a trip out of town for a summer afternoon picnic. Pull over on some grass and before you know it, your truck is responsible for a large scale fire. I dont know how much of an issue that would be out there, but it can be a massive problem in a dry arid environment like Australia. There is also the problem of the masses of pipework that the turbo's have to pressurise, creating lots of lag. it also goes for the exhaust side. as the exhaust gasses cool, they lose some of their energy, meaning slower, lazier spooling of the turbo's. I find it hard to believe there was no room in the bay at all. nice to see that there is no exhaust connection on those wastegates either. a lot of you Americans would freak out if you had to try and build a LEGAL modified car in oz.

it looks like they didnt heed the warning about taunting happy fun ball.

lesson learned? If the bloke in front has his indicator on, dont look away? personally id be measuring the distance between the front of the rails, just incase they ahve been pulled inwards slightly. looks very superficial though.

I got my genuine Nismo one from courtesy Nissan in Texas. wasn't as expensive as the kameari one either.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us Id hit it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyAUbtHD8SQ crazy uni students..... That google header is cool. now im going to look for a version of pacman that'll work on my pc, or better yet, on my ps3

a good tip would be to use a matt paint instead off a gloss...... lol, sorry, but i had to. Like painting anything, prep is EVERYTHING. make sure your surface is smooth and clean. its a very good idea to get the bumpers stripped first, to get the chrome off them, otherwise the paint wont stick very well. Price it up, it may work out cheaper to get some fiberglass bars and paint them instead. you cha allways go back to the chrome bars if you dont like it, or sell them on for some extra cash.

I wouldnt mount to the airdam. a few reasons. They'll vibrate like all hell, that'll give you a headache when driving at night with them on. If you nudge a gutter, it'll throw out the alignment, or even worse, damage the lights. you'll need some extensive bracing in the airdam to take the weight. Personally, to mount them where you are suggesting, i would mount them 'upside down' with a bracket across the front of the chassis, between the bumper mounts. try to get them to sit in as far as possible, you dont want them sitting forward of the airdam opening, It'll look tacky.

sorry no, just a random pic i fond on the net a couple of years ago. I am planning on mounting some HID Lightforce lights in a similar position, i havent quite worked it out yet though. By the looks of the pic, they are a 7" (or close to) spotlight. I havent decided on no bumper and 180mm lights, or bumper and 140mm lights. i would imagine that there is some simple brackets made up to mount them, probably attached to the metalwork next to the bumper mounts. I'll take pics once mine is done, but its probably going to be a year or so before i get around to it. I have other more important parts of the car to get done first.

sweet as Woody build thread, Aussie style http://gemswa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rides&action=display&thread=833&page=1

ereanooru? Uploaded with ImageShack.us as an example, see how the spot lights give it a very distinctive elanor feel without looking like it was lifted directly from the stang? I would say keep it clean like that, and possibly the rear windows done in a similar fashion. I would strongly suggest staying away from copying the door scoop. It could however be 'complimented' with some clever painting of body decals.

^^^ Hmmm, but mitsubishi's V6 motor was awesome. So awesome they supplied it with 3 platinum plugs and 3 copper cores, to reduce labour times during servicing. Would have made more sence to use 6 platinums and do them all once at 100,000kms my biggest pet peeve of all? Oil filters in close proximity to hot exhaust manifolds. In some cases, the bloody manifold wraps halfway around the damn filter! NOBODY ever changes the filter on a cold vehicle in a workshop enviroment. its not like the customer (or mechanic) is happy to leave the car on a hoist for a couple of hours to cool off. that and new cars being soo damn cramped to work on.

you did scan the photo for our amusement before putting it back, right? RIGHT? lol, well at least it runs. It'll be out of your hair soon and you can get back to better jobs.

here is the error messages, incase anyone can give me some hints or tips on where to start with this damn thing. configuration error: You have a configuration error! this means there are conflicting settings and the controller does not know how to handle them the controller message below should help to provide some guidance to the incorrect settings. correct your settings then powercycle the megasquirt. you do not need to reload firmware to fix this problem. controller message: 22222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222222 (or alternate message) Controller message: mSnS-extra format 029q ************** I try and start again from scratch, EVERY single field is set with the value of -2147483648

Is anyone using the new tunerstudios software to tune? what are people thinking about it? I have it installed and it seemed to be great initially for setting up the basics, however i have come across issues with trying to calibrate sensors. Just lately i have come back to the car after a week of sitting (you know, work and life ect ect) and at first it wont connect with the program. Shortly after it tells me that there are conflicting settings that it cant handle, and throwing up error messages everywhere. It seems that you need to have a degree in programming to understand how to make any changes at all. Its at the point where i cant tune the motor, because i cant send info to the ecu and im about to 'massage' it with something heavy. in that week period nothing at all has changed (except for a new keyboard) Why would it suddenly crap out? Im thinking that i should just use megatune. Is it going to be the same story with megatune? do i require a degree in programming to make changes and actually understand how to do anything? I can do mechanicals with my eyes shut, and i can learn how to do the pc stuff, but i have also had a play with a mates setup (Microtech on a wild 4cyl turbo) even the software for that is easy to use. Simply put in the desired info, and it does it for you.

not so keen on the rear end (it could be fixed) But i could seriously see myself paying attention if something looking like that was lined up on a salt flat. from some angles, the front looks pretty good.

(i had about 3 times as much written up, but the more i think about it, it doesnt appply) maybe look at the flywheel? to see if there is something binding against it? is the starter fitted in place yet? something isnt right, yea you can have a tight motor, but if its real hard to turn over by hand there is an issue somewhere. consider how much power is going to be lost from the motor to overcome its internal friction? Its a strange one, i would be very keen to hear what has caused it.

we may not have invented english, but we have refined it to a grouse world standard, ey bloke? interesting wheelie bin fact for my northern hemisphere bros, in the majority of my independent testing, on average the wheels of the bin tend to fly off around 80-85kph every time. At 100kph, they are also quite difficult to hold onto as they get enough air flowing around and under them to generate their own lift. the things you learn when your mates just get a drivers licence huh?

yea, everyone knows its faster just to pour it in the creek... lol, no hes not serious, us aussies are a caring bunch, thoughtful of our enviroment (goes and rips a massive skid)

jeebus... Looking at the radiator hoses though, it looks like it would have been in a truck of some sort?