MJLamberson

Looks great!

Mobile 1 fully synthetic

dont trust ebay turbos

Semi sweet. Digital or film?

Danica patrick Dio or ozzy?

Finished the turbo swap, the whole time it wouldnt spark there wasnt really anything wrong with my wiring, I was just had a friend over to show him how it wouldnt spark and go figure, it started sparking. Fixed the timing and all was good, for about a day and a half. yesterday afternoon I was driving her around town, and it started to sput, then died, I popped the hood and all that had happened was the negative battery cable had popped off... sigh of relief... not! Re connected the cable and guess what? No more spark and no more green light on the ECU. I called a friend and we towed the car back to my place where I checked and double checked EVERY SINGLE CONNECTION. No fusible links are blown, Everything that should be getting power is, and The EFI relay still functions. Yet still no green light on the ECU, still no spark. My best guess would be the Crank Angle Sensor is bad, My second guess would be the ECU. So what do you guys think? If the Crank Angle Sensor was not functioning would that cause the ECU light to not kick on? EDIT: Forgot to mention that I did try resetting the ECU. and That I am thrown off by the fact that before it was running, when it wasnt sparking, with the wiring the EXACT SAME WAY that it is now, and while it was running, the ECU light would work, but the car wouldnt spark.

Hes right, I just got my l28et running earlier today, and it seams way faster then stock, But Im already feeling the urge to crank it up.

You put on the 1. stock injectors off a zxt, 2.the zxt afm, 3. the zxt Dizzy, 4. the zxt wiring harness with ECU... (Make sure these are all from the same year) 5. zxt exhaust manifold then the basics like J pipe and down pipe with couplers and stuff. Next you spend hours and hours staring at the wiring diagrams and reading the write ups, PMing people that have done it. I recommend an air/fuel ratio gauge and a boost gauge. Good for 5 WHP each and 7 if they are unusualy large.

Lookin good!

If I cant get this figured out soon I think I will just go back to NA, I hate to admit to failure but I this process is taking to long and I need my car on the road again. Its a shame because I am so close.

How can I test my ignitor? it was said to be good, and looks like new, but Im thinking I need to test it.

So when Im trying to crank the engine over, nothing happens, but as soon as I move the key from the on/start position to the off position it gives me a spark... huh? Please help my car has been down for to long.

Huh?

This just in, the green on the ECU shuts OFF during cranking... normal or causing my problem/ what is the cause of this? EDIT: the light is turning off during cranking but power is still going to the coil, that just confirmed

Also just realized that my coil is getting very hot... is that a clue maybe?

Yeah the green lite turns on.

bump

As long as there is an out of the way parking lot, roundabout, or industrial district, and tire stores that just throw the used ones out back, drifting will be here to stay. And it really isnt doesnt cost as much as you might think. Most people use the s13/s14 base... cheap the buy, and cheap to fix. nothing wrong with used tires which can easily be had for free.

I just noticed I dont have a wire going from plug 2 to my starter/ignition switch.... would that be causing my problem? where on the starter and I supposed to hook that up to? EDIT: I should probably mention that right now my starter isnt hooked up to my ignition switch, when I converted the car from auto to manual I didnt know about the neutral start switch so I just put in a button from positive to the soleniod. I dont see how this would affect anything but Im throwing it out there just in case.

This is an s30, My sig does not apply, I had the car running on boost with the NA EFI but it ran like crap basicaly.

Does the ECU itself have to be grounded in order for the ignitor to work? right now mines just sitting on the floor plan

This may sound like a stupid question to some, but should all of the stock ignition stuff that is under the dash on the passenger side come out first? is there anyway both systems are being powered and thats why it isnt working?

The CAS is on the dizzy, harness is from an 83

Doing the turbo swap wiring, got everything working good except spark, heres whats up: When I had the coil wire off the coil so I could see if it was sparking, it would only create a spark for a split second and then stop, I took the positive off the coil and put it directly to the battery with the same results, it woul spark when the wire touched the battery, but only once and never again untill it was removed from the power then touched the battery again... whats up with this? its beyond me. ANY advice would be great, and if you need to know anything else let me know, thanks. -Michael