rossman

I found out that the answer to my question is "yes" because the carrier bearings that Nissan lists as alternate are different widths than the originals.

Yeah, I think you paid too much, assuming there it's not an LSD or something special. I've seen original long nose R180's pretty much given away on this site.

I had one fail on an long nose R200 LSD. It turned out that all the bearings were bad. Hopefully this is not the case for you. You have to remove the carriage and pinion, hammer out the front bearing and press in a new one. I'd imagine that a shop would charge you a hundred bucks or so if you took them the differential, bearing and seal. The R200 front pinion bearing was ~$65 from Nissan.

Jon - Thank you very much for the thorough explanation. I appreciate you following up and it sounds like you are doing the right thing. I believe they are referring to work hardening. The material actually gets stronger as it yields. I wouldn't trust SUNNY Z's shafts because of the little sharp notches where the CV carriage dug into the splines. These little notches are stress risers and may initiate fatigue cracks.

The only way to know is to open up the engine and inspect.

It could be that the machinist decided to lap or turn down the OD this go round. Assuming there is no lot traceability then a hardness or tensile test is required to determine if the heat treat is correct.

It would help if you would describe the symptoms you are experiencing. In general more power will generate more heat thus requiring the cooling system to reject more heat.

Could this be a materials issue? Kinda like some 1018 got mixed in with the 4140 or the 4140 didn't get heat treated/hardened properly. 1018 Mild Steel = 54 KSI yield 4140, Annealed = 65 KSI yield 4140, heat treated and tempered = 152 KSI yield A hardness test will tell you what you got.

I wouldn't worry so much about the corrosion in the water jackets as I would the scoring marks in cylinder #5. I can only see #5 but it probably has the same problem in the other cylinders not shown. Who built the engine? Does he have any documentation on the build? How do you know it's really a stroker engine? I would be leery of purchasing this engine. How much does he want for it? BTW, your first and second pictures are too small to be or any use.

Yes I did. It turned out to be a timing and ignition sequence issues. I got a timing wheel and discovered the timing was off about 8 degrees. The ignition sequence was off due to...uh, user error .

Have they considered a Honda Fit? I drive one as my DD. It gets 28 - 30 mpg around town and 36 - 40 on the highway depending on how heavy your foot is. It is very practical and versatile. Check out Consumer Reports for an unbiased rating. I assuming they are buying used? I don't think you can get either car for $10K.

Nice Ron! What are your plans for the EMS? Wolf V500?

Yep and I had to drop it to fix a leak.

Up next is to fabricate a new 1.5 inch wastegate dump pipe that empties in the main exhaust pipe, My plan is to have it enter the main pipe down near the center of the gearbox. The down pipe is fabricated such that there is quite a bit of room between it an the gearbox. I will try to take pictures when I start fabrication.

Here are some links to some of my other posts related to building and testing the car's fuel system. Building my stainless fuel lines: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99619-installing-custom-fuel-lines/page__p__933971__fromsearch__1#entry933971 Pressure testing the fuel system: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/104364-pressure-testing-fuel-system-with-no-fuel/page__p__975912__hl__%2Btesting+%2Bno+%2Bfuel__fromsearch__1#entry975912

I found similar metal particles when i removed my oil pan. I cleaned them out by flushing the pan with degreaser and water, then re-coated the inner pan with fresh motor oil to prevent corrosion. I have one of MSA's comp gaskets gonna coat it with Permatex #2 form-a-gasket. I was going to use Hylomar but I almost forgot that it is meant for machined surfaces. Also, I had good luck with #2 on my first Z's oil pan back when I was in college.

Those depend on the serrations digging into the flange surface. I imagine they don't grip reliably on hard steel. But, it's probably worth a shot since exhaust flange bolts are not safety critical. With lockwire and tabbed washers, you know they will work if installed correctly.

There is no Loctite rated for exhaust manifold temperatures. BTW the lockwire shown in the propeller hub picture is installed incorrectly. Lockwire needs to wrap around and pull tangentially on the bolt head in a manner which tends to tighten the bolt.

I got a request for an updated schematic. Here it is. No guarantees it's correct. I made minor changes along the way but this is basically it.

Hi Lazeum - Thanks for commenting. I'm curious why you feel the need to remove the pan each time you change the oil. Are you cleaning out metal particles? Do you coat both sides of the gasket or just the pan side when you re-install the pan? I cleaned up both the pan and block flanges this morning. It appears that the block side was not leaking. I may try using anti-seize on the block side again. It sure makes clean-up a breeze. Definitely going to flatten the oil pan flange as best I can. The reservoir overhangs the flange making it difficult to access the bolt side on my NISMO style pan.

I measured my setup and got about ~3/4 inch gap on both sides with the suspension fully unloaded (full droop). The car is a '72 with Modern Motorsports adapter flanges, R200 LSD, stock LCAs, polyurethane bushings and no camber plates.

Can't believe it's been over a month since last post. I did drive the car a little bit. Between the on-off 6 puck clutch, jumpy throttle and off-throttle dying (like coasting to a light) it was not pleasant to drive. Hopefully I'll get used to the clutch. If not, there is a new one standard disk sitting on my bench. I think the jumpy throttle was due to the throttle cable being too sort. Installed a new cable but haven't driven the car to verify that was the problem. The dying problem was tuned out by adding timing at low load/rpm in Wolf. Not sure if this is the best way but it worked. While I was driving there was a howling sound coming from the rear. It turned out to the the differential bearings. The side bearings and front pinion bearings were shot. I attempted to replace all the bearings myself until I realized that the side bearings are different widths than the original. Called Nissan and found out the the originals are NLA. So, off to the differential shop for shimming and assembly. Got it back and installed along will all the suspension and drive train this past weekend. Removed the oil pan this morning in order to fix the severely leaking gasket. I tried the method recommended in "How to Modify." Didn't work. Apparently the weatherstrip adhesive skinned over before the gasket was placed down and it didn't seal on the passenger side. Rather than risk that happening again I'm going to use my tried-and-true method of applying Hylomar on both flanges prior to installing the gasket. That stuff hasn't failed me yet. Things to-do before the next drive: 1) Reinstall the oil pan - major PITA I'm sure... 2) Finish installing the J&S Interceptor 3) Finish installing the Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller (new to this build - Thanks Clive!) 4) Plumb the wastegate tube to the main exhaust pipe (hate the screamer pipe noise) 5) Re-shim the rear brakes - had to remove them to track down the differential noise That's it for now.

Ammeter?

Probably the fuse box.

Morbias is correct, the white is a POWER wire not a ground wire. The sparks were a dead giveaway. A ground wire wouldn't spark like that, unless it is wired incorrectly. Also, it looks you you put that rear ground wire on top of paint. To get a proper ground, you should clean a spot down to bare metal around the bolt hole, apply dielectric grease, then screw the lug down tight. The lug should also be clean metal.