quicker240

I just got off the phone with Jon.They need about 500 bucks to make the event.I am in for 100.They need to know by 2 or 3pm today.If anyone else can help,I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated.Maybe a small donation from the gate proceeds if all agreed? I personally would really like to see these two cars run...

So the Maxima CV stub will direct swap with a u-joint stub?..Got a pic maybe?

I have the proflo on my car and have been happy with it overall.Reasonably tunable and for what you get with it,pretty cost efficient.PCM,Harness,sensors,injectors(28lb),intake(basically a victor jr),throttle body(1000cfm),fuel pump,hoses,clamps,distributor conversion stuff.All BRAND NEW.Yes,you could get a used TPI for a less money,but it would be used stuff and likely incomplete and hard to adapt to your application.The instructions were easy to follow and straight forward.You dont get instructions with used stuff.Wont work with your Vortecs though.You'll probably have to buy the Edelbrock/Vortec 4bbl intake and modify it to add port injection.Do-able but some extra expense and effort.Maybe look at some different heads,I think the E-tek heads from Edelbrock use the Vortec style ports and chamber design.Downers for the proflo are small tuning maps(8 x 8),no wideband provision,limited to about 500hp(a lot for some,but not enough for others...).Good luck.

Mac Tools.I drive around all day in a big yellow truck looking for mechanics.10 years so far.The up side is everybody that works on cars in this town owes me money....

Funny you should mention that kind of example.I am personally guilty of doing exactly that.I know better,but I just cant help myself.Riding around in a Mac Tool truck all the time,I just seem to come across what seem to be good deals all the time.My parts are not matched or well thought out.I hope you make it to Reynolds Grumpy.I would love to get your take on my setup in person.I would also be keenly interested in your reccomendations for future upgrades.You posted recently on another thread,the laundry list of information you needed to make such a reccomendation.If you make Reynolds,I'll have it there.If not,I would like to run it by you on this forum. I expect you get bombarded by this kind of request quite often,so if its too much trouble I understand completely.I also respect the value of the experience you bring to the table and am more than happy to pay for the time and or evaluation.I have put a lot of money and good parts into my drivetrain,I hate to see a bad choice of a particular component or weak link,hold the performance back on my car.I think paying somebody with experience and knowledge probably the wisest money i could spend....man I sound like an a** kisser.

I think if you leave now,you can make it down to Reynolds Ga by Sept.10!

I am glad to see you guys trying those out.My nitto555r's are about gone and I was about to buy some new tires for SEZS7.The Nittos have been good to me but the MTDR's are getting a little press coverage.I was checking them out at the speed shop last week and they felt pretty soft and sticky,but I trust feedback from somebody I know much more than crap I read in mags.Please keep us up on the testing and what the manufacturers said about the tire,pressures,temps,heating methods and so on.I would love to find a streetable tire I could spray earlier on than 60 ft.Anybody else who could compare the Nittos to the MickeyT's please chime in.If the bolt pattern is a 5 bolt mustang on those wheels,I would'nt mind checking for fit/clearance at Reynolds if you still have em'.Might clear the coilovers a bit better than the stock perches,without spacers(I doubt it,my luck aint that good!).See you soon!

I sneak up on people too.By the way,Brody SAYS he is coming.I'll believe it when I see it.Still trying to get with Sonny and his Blue beast.Should get my car back from the shop this week.Dedicated fuel supply for the nitrous should fix my issues.Found my Fuel pickup sock jammed into the corner of the cell all wadded up.Maybe I'm a sleeper since I havn't run better than 11.8 for two events.I kinda like the Zebra car....

I had the same thing happen once.I feel stupid to mention it,but,I had the fan wired backwards one time and my car did the same thing.Fine at idle(blowing air back through the radiator),overheating slowly on course(fan trying to push against air moving through radiator in moving car).I thought the air at the base of the windshield in a moving car was LOW pressure(I.E. would SUCK air out of the engine compartment) ,and was easier for an intake to get at.Now I'm confused again dang it! Your diagnosis seems backwards to me.

You could cut the back open no problem but I think I would cut single round holes in a line.There is a reinforcing peice of wood I expect,molded into the center of the bonnet running front to rear.Its about 2 inches wide,1/2 inch thick,that might be in the way of an "oval" slot.You can check mine out at SEZS if you want.

I think theres a bit more to consider here.So what you have is a 80k car,what is that $1300.00 per mo?,with ZERO fuel bill for 6 years?Probably a slight increase in your electric bill though.If you have to commute more than 30 or 40 miles a day,I can see this car making a lot of sense.Especially if you are a tree hugger!Add your gas bill to your car payment and see what it adds up to.Not to mention that it is a very nice looking car!!

After following this thread for a while,a thought came to mind.Rather than a sponsorship,why not just offer a contingency?(sp?).Maybe start a separate fund that could be filled by vendor donations or products,member donations,maybe funnel a few dollars from SEZ leftovers,just anywhere we can get a few bucks without hurting site maint. costs.Anybody who represents the HybridZ well I.E. winning a high profile event(be it Drift,drag,autocross ,NOPI,show...whatever,Have the Admins or even the membership vote the amount of the gift.Anyone can nominate themself or anybody they see represent HybridZ and its core values well.I pay a small membership fee to my local Z car club and over the years we have accumulated a tidy little fund.We dole it out for just such reasons.It seems to work and we have never had a dispute.Just a thought...

I am running the 280zx master cyl.(2 large reservoirs) with the larger 2 + 2 booster.Stock proportioning valve,wilwood adjustable on the rear half(never have adjusted it,but its there) and a B&M line lock on the fronts.The feel of the brakes are soft but linear.Very little pedal effort for even very heavy braking.Also has a bit more pedal travel than I like,however I have found this common on 4 wheel disc brake cars.The light pedal seems to be a common thing among this thread.Has anyone else found a solution to this issue or is it just a "thats how it is" thing? I have been living with it for quite a long time...

I put the AZ kits on mine a few years ago and had similar issues.One thing I hav'nt heard you address is how you are bleeding the calipers.Each half of the caliper has a bleeder and you need to bleed each half,not just crack the line coming in.i am pretty sure you have already done it this way,just thought I'd bring it up.The other thing is that after I got the system bled,the pedal feels COMPLETELY Different than it did with stock brakes.Although the pedal is VERY VERY soft(almost like the brakes are not working at all!),when driving the car,they will stop the car VERY quickly with nearly no pedal effort at all.I attribute this to the factory valving of the proportioning valve being set up for disc/drum,and the fact the wilwoods are so much more efficient(about 3 or 4 times the pad area and larger rotor contact area.) It took quite a bit of getting used to and I still have a bit of trouble adjusting from my average daily driver car to the ultra low pedal effort Z brakes when I jump into it.Hope this helps a little.Steve

We have been so busy with moving lately,havn't had much time to work on the car.I did spend some time sorting on it a couple of weeks ago.Still having a fuel pressure drop as soon as I hit it.Voltage at the pump is 11.5 and 13.3-4 at the battery.Definately not good.Going to run a big wire back to the pump and put the relay very close by.also upgrading to a 140 amp alternator.I put a big Bosch pump on it (used) so it should have enough pump but if all else fails,I'll get the big Aeromotive and be done with it.I wont be running with the big dogs next event but should see some low 11's and God willing a 10.9999999999.Stay tuned.Sorry to hijack your thread so back on track here.I have the 280zxt cv axles about to go in,just wondering how much bigger the 300zx axles are and if I would be better to round the larger ones up.The adapters are a bit more expensive too for the 300 ones...

Might be time to stock up on stub axles...! did you guys use the 300zx or the 280zx CV axles?

...is here in the Birmingham Al area.Robert Russom and his guys are serious motorheads and some very quick machines come out of their shop.The Miata project was very impressive last I stopped by.They had fabricated a complete double wishbone front suspension and engine cradle assy..The geometry was beautiful.They are also heavy into the LSX engines so the Miata(which already had some 400 plus HP from a monster size turbo on a 4 cyl) was inevitable.Welcome to the board.

Hot spots on the rear rotors from holding the brakes and accelerator at the same time.Glad to have a line lock now...

I would check the bearing races first.Sounds like maybe one is not seated correctly.Mount the hub up on the lathe by itself and see if it wobbles.If the race scraped a little sliver of aluminum into the seat as it was driven in,it could cause your problem.Mine went on without any discernable runout,however I have managed to hotspot the rotors from holding the brake while doing burnouts.

Nissan Q45 V8.Should make for a fun ride.

I paid 300 bucks for the blast job.I thought it was a pretty good deal.As far as I can tell,he just used regular sand,although I wasn't there when he did it,the residue looked kind of black and glassy.We stripped the hood,roof,fenders and doors by hand so he wouldn't have to blast the large flat surfaces.I did'nt want any heat warping.Not really a concern on the interior,cage and under carriage.I must say I feel pretty secure knowing there are no suprises in the body work now.I have seen all the metal,tip to tail.Hell,this car might turn out to be pretty nice...

some pics of the car thats underway.http://photobucket.com/albums/f253/quicker240/ The sandblast job located a few small cancer spots under the driver seat,under the battery and a few other spots as shown in the pics.The car was blasted inside,outside,and underneath.Car was immediately painted with etching primer after the sand was cleaned out.This is a 72 240 with a planned vh45 .Fenders are cut out and welded for ZG flares front and back.We welded in thread inserts on the front fenders.The inside and cage will be painted the color of the car.After seeing Mulls car,I call this one "rust free".More to come....

I too have a 700r4.The first build,although they put the good parts in,only lasted 1000 miles and never shifted right(slipping).I had a more knowledgeable builder redo it.He told me the most important thing to make a 700 last after putting in the upgraded parts was to modify the valve body and jack the fluid pressures WAY up.The 1st builder used good parts,but no mods to the valve body.I drive this car pretty hard(as seen at all the SEZS events),with better than 400hp plus nitrous,and have had no more problems.I use drag radials and have done many 1.7x 60 ft. times on the open 3.55 gear.I just got the 3.70LSD installed last week and am anxious to see what it does next.I expect a slight improvement in 60 ft with a GREAT improvement in consistency(sp?).I also expect it to put more stress on the trans. I use a PTC 11" 2700 stall converter by the way.I am trying not to break anything before SEZS so am taking it easy for now but plan on running it hard in Reynolds.Don't want all you 6 cyl. guys to make us V8's look bad....

Guess it will be going in tomorrow then!Busted my 3.55 at the track last weekend trying to fix a pesky Nitrous gremlin.Went to the track with one problem,came home with two.2 wheels pulling for SEZ,this could be interesting....

The guy I got it from said it came from a 300ZX of some kind or so he thought.I am glad to see it has the large bolts in the ring gear.This leads to the next question.I got a clutch type LSD from Z-GAD(Mike) a while back and it too has the large bolt ring gear.Can I just swap the carrier and reinstall or will I need to wipe and reshim and check it all over again?I think I know the answer already but what are the chances its gonna just go back together and be right?