quicker240

I have another idea for you.Put a proflo injection(I'm sure it has a CARB #) or TPI on it,and put cats on it.I feel sure it would pass any sniffer test,not to mention run better.Being in a non-inspection state,I dont know,would they go to the trouble of getting the block serial number and identifying it as a 400? I doubt it but one of you Cali guys may know better about that.I dont envy you guys having to go through that crap just because you have a cool car.And that is a cool car.Looks like a clean body and a clean install,mind if we ask how much you got it for? Dont be shy,most of us have much more in ours than we even admit to ourselves.Go ahead boys,call me a liar!

I dont know if I'd go that far.What you have done is move to the next weak link in the system.Unless you have an R230,the old style R200 is not gonna take too many really hard launches.Also,the stub axles seem to have a pretty short lifespan also at those HP levels.You may be the lucky one who never breaks,but I would'nt to get TOO comfy....I am pretty near your HP level in my car and have been lucky so far.If you stay away from a stall converter,and keep nothing stickier than a drag radial (i.e. NO SLICKS),you might get some life out of it.Let us know what kind of 60' time you get when its all together.The clock will tell the story for you.Keep us informed!!

There is a link in here somewhere that shows the Nissan part breakbown on both the R200 VLSD and the R230.Easiest way to tell the difference is the R230 has 3 bolts across the top on the rear cover and the R200 has only 2.They both are quite similar in outward appearance unfortunately so know what your looking for.

Thats the first time I've ever seen that setup.Looks like a great upgrade to me.Obviously much more accurate cam timing control.But given the amount of expense,why not rig up a belt drive?or has someone done that already too?This chain setup allows for precise adjustment of the gear and compensates for chain and gear wear,plus easy cam changes without jamming a stick down into the TC cover.I hardly see "twang" as an issue,but then again,I arnt no engineer.Nissan ever to something like this in competition?

Thanks for the links.I added them to the list.I'll be printing them all to a folder soon.There was a picture of the 36-1 wheel mounted to a chevy adapter in there.I will likely go the same route,if the vh45 does'nt have one already.Install looks pretty straightforward although some details are a little fuzzy as to the PIP and SAW signal stuff.This is all still a bit off time wise but it gives me stuff to scrounge up in the mean time.A police car garage on my route should yield all the EDIS modules and coil packs I will ever need.As well as VR sensors and pickup wheels off 4.6l V8s.Sometimes it pays to be a tool man.I'll also start looking over the MJ lite stuff in more detail.I'll post pics as real progress starts to be made.Thanks again for the help,I appreciate it!

The plan is to install MS on a VH45 in a 72 240Z.I hav'nt even looked to closely at the Q engine yet as the car is soon home from paint jail and then the engine goes in.I know the original setup is coil on plug,which is currently not supported by MSnS or MSII for that matter.I assume at this point the VH has crank and or cam sensors of some type and I understand the VVT to be not electronically controlled.I see that Ford coilpacks can be used with Edis,can I adapt this type setup to the VH45 and eliminate the coil on plug?,or should I just wait for UltraMS and see what I can rig up on it? Just looking for a rough idea on a direction to go where I am not limited by the factory electronics on an engine of this potential.Any input here would be appreciated.I am planning to add a little nitrous on this engine too 150hp or so and I have read the nitrous section in the MSII area as well.Ideas?

If the Garanimals don't fit.you must aquit.

OK,its built and functional.The case for the relay board is a good 1/4 inch too short and did not include screws for the endplates.Other than that,all is well.

Nevermind that last question.Problem found.Putting dunce cap on now.Mounted ALL components on the wrong side of board.Now wheres my solder wick.... .At least the MS is right.Just gotta rebuild the stim tonight.I'll keep you informed,and I'm sure entertained.Thats right folks,I'll be here all week!!

Does the IC1 processor mount on the bottom of the board? Seems to be the only way to make the dot/notch terminal tie in to 7,8,9,10 on the db37.The 555IC seems to be backwards.Everything else on both boards seems to check out.Instructions dont say anything that I could find about mounting the IC on back...and I could'nt find a picture of an assembled stim.Little help here?

I have to agree(sorry pope).I too hate the "spider" intake.Just a matter of taste I guess.Its bulky,hangs over the side and just generally looks crappy to me.The good news is it unbolts from the lower intake tubes and a little(ie lot) of fab work should net a nice front air valve setup.I was wondering if the Titan intake might work?Something along the lines of a LS1 or long runner TPI would look cool too.Also need to simplify the coolant routing to the heads underneath the intake.It looks like poop also.

I have full voltage at 11 on the db37 and ground at 19 on the 40 pin processor socket.Also ground at 1,2 and 31.xg1 and xg2 jumped.x13(off of 11) is the only place on the ms board I seem to get any signifcant voltage at.I have checked diode direction and remelted ALL solder joints on both the stim and ms board.Been cleaning flux with alcohol and Q tips.Maybe a toothbrush/w/alcohol may clean better?why are 20 and 31 ground when they should be 5v? where does that circuit lead?also the picture on page 25 shows u5 with a metal screw insted of nylon,issue? all components installed on the ms board show ground potential when checked against BAT+.I must have a short to ground somewhere.Just cant seem to find it.Thoughts?

I have a set of original SK's on a TWM manifold I'll be happy to sell you.A lot less than 1700 bucks I promise you.Let me know of you want pics or something.

Bought the Megasquirt kit,relay board,and stim board.Seems pretty srtaight forward till I got to the part"You now have the power supply assembled,plug in the battery and verify its operational".Well,its not... .Does'nt seem to be a section in the assemble instructions on testing the stim board.I have ground at #19 on the DB37 on the MS but no voltage anywhere except at the 9v battery terminal.Kinda hate to go on if I can't even get the 1st section working.... .Should I go ahead and totally assemble the MS or troubleshoot till I get the power supply section working.I'm all ears.

I'll qualify what follows with some basic info.I am a Mac Tool dealer so I see many scan tools in the field,and as a former mechanic,have some degree of experience with several different tools.As far as bang for the buck,the Actron tools are pretty strong.A lot of info for a little money(comparatively).Auto xray is new to the game but looks and feels like Taiwan crap.Cables are wimpy,packaging is crap,not very durable.Where they both fall short is your requirement to connect to a p/c.To meet your spec.s(OBD I,II, PC connectable) there are few options currently available in the lower price range.OTC is offering a PDA based unit that was (and still may be) available from Baum.Does everything you ask EXCEPT cover OBD I Vehicles.It also has a scope attachment available as an option.The ET3005 from Mac is an OTC based tool that does all you ask,as well as ABS,transmission,and airbag,however I dont think(not entirely sure ) the latest software to display the data on PC called "connecttech" has filtered down to that unit yet.Its available on the high end "genesis(OTC) and Mentor(Mac) units and the ET3005 is based on the same software,so it cant be far behind.Hope this helps.Your posts are a great source of info for me so if there is ANYTHING I can do to assist you,just let me know.I consider the opportunity to help small payback for the knowledge I've gained as a result of your posts.

Remember that movie with Tom Hanks called "the money pit"? Every contractor he talked to,"be done in two weeks".Hilarious.Good luck and get that check book ready.......

I want some,count me in

Since the perches are coming off anyway,and the strut cartridge is clamped in the housing,it'll work the same,regardless of tube diameter.Anyone correct me if I'm wrong here.

Love the smooth rear panels.congrats on the progress.A little disheartening to see em in pieces but its all coming together....

yes its WAY better.much better feel and performance.Probably the first upgrade to do on your brake system.Also,thats a pretty darn good price if shipping is free or at least cheap.

Boy do I feel your pain.I decided on the 2nd car thing.Flares,rollcage,cowl hood,the whole friggin deal.Damn Z cars.

I too would be interested in an answer to this.I had substantial problems with fuel temp in that my external electric inline fuel pump would overheat and leave me stranded on long road trips or stop and go traffic.My fuel would get very hot(I can fit my hand into my fuel cell).On one occasion,on the side of the interstate 100 miles from home,we had the idea of putting bags of ice on the top of the fuel cell and over the fuel lines.Not only did this cure the problem,the car IMMEDIATELY ran much better AND got significantly better mileage(22 mpg).I put an intank walbro 255 fuel pump in place of the inline Edelbrock supplied 255 pump and it ,being cooled by the fuel,solved the shutoff problems.However it cant run the engine AND nitrous both like the edelbrock pump did.Fuel pressure drops like a stone as soon as I hit the fun button.Now I either have to upgrade the intank pump or run a 2nd complete dedicated nitrous fuel line.Working on the fuel cell is a huge PITA! I've been putting it off for a while now,but something has got to give soon.I have new MT ET drag slicks and skinny fronts screaming to be broken in.

Just got some 15" weld magnum drag 2.0 wheels.Pretty close but do clear the brakes front and rear.

Mike,please let me know how that works out.I have the proflo same as you and would like to uncover my nice fuel injection,just worried as you are about decreased airflow.That extreme piece looks cool.