Leon

Only if you install the V8's original smog equipment and get it certified by a ref. Search for this as it has been discussed ad nauseum.

When you go to start and it doesn't turn over, do you hear a click from the engine bay? If so, the cause is likely bad electrical connections not getting enough voltage to the solenoid. S30s never had a starter relay but you can install one to make the switch functional again. Search for "260Z starter relay" on google and you'll find the solution. My 260Z had the same problem, clicks when you turn the key but sometimes it actually works. Jumping the starter worked every time so I installed a relay and it's good as new!

I think I'd go with the steel wool before I put a Supertrapp on my car...

It's not your fault. It's not your fault. :lmao:

Updated! Wow, 3 years consolidated into one post. I should've spread it out a bit... sorry for the super long read!

I meant the visible "wire end" of the sensor pointing up. The ceramic part that actually touches the exhaust gasses shoud be pointing down, sorry for the confusion. I would mount it at a greater angle than the picture shows just for peace of mind.

Do NOT mount O2 sensors in an orientation that doesn't point the sensor up! With the sensor on the bottom, or even exactly on the side of the pipe, condensed water will thermally shock the sensor leading to premature failure.

Thanks Peter, hopefully you get your Z back soon enough! Believe me, I know the feeling. My Z's have an addiction to jackstands...

I know it's a long post but I tried to keep it as concise as I could! First, a little background... I was looking for a project car and new it had to be a sports car with rear wheel drive, a manual transmission and good looks. I came dangerously close to buying a Porsche 944 multiple times. After the car gods continually sent me messages that it wasn't meant to be, I expanded my search criteria to other cars, including the likes of MkIII Supras, and Datsun Z-cars. What can I say, I like fastbacks! I found a 240Z for sale in Cupertino for $800 on CL and checked it out. The car didn't start, had considerable rust and was pretty dirty and tired. I slept on it and was on the verge of passing on it when my girlfriend convinced me to just do it. Yes, she's a definite keeper! So, I got my first Z, a '71 240Z in June of 2007 for $400 after talking the guy down. Coincidentally, he sold the Z to fund his very clean MkIII Supra turbo. The Z was mostly original, besides the rust (who knows, maybe it came with it ), and had a late ZX 5-speed. Got it running, drove it a bit over the course of a year but it never ran right. I ended taking it all apart, and planned to do a full restoration. Here are some of photos of "Blue Z": After the new mags! As I was taking the engine apart, I noticed a few things. The cam oiler bar broke off at the front end and the missing piece was nowhere to be found (later found it in the oil pan!). Also, the new dizzy cap didn't seat correctly on the distributor. No wonder why no matter what I did, I always got detonation! The Z sat on stands for a months until I stumbled upon a rust-free shell for sale in August of 2009. The rust on Blue Z was more than I was willing to fix at the time and a shell for $500 made lots of sense, especially when it includes brand new Eibachs and Illuminas! I found it on CL but it turned out that it was a member's car (bucket240Z), and it had gone through an almost complete V8 conversion before he gave up. I ended up making the purchase and having it towed to my house. It was cool to find some old posts from the PO on here, to see the car actually together. Here is the car when the PO got it. Sad to see it get parted out. However, it gave me the opportunity to buy it, so I can't complain. BTW, anyone get the dash off that car? It would be great to get the matching VIN plate back with the car. On with the story! I slowly stripped what was left on the shell, aka "Red Z", and got it close to being ready for paint. Another year goes by and in the summer of 2010, while saving for the paint-job and after selling a Mustang I had, I was surfing CL as I tend to do. I click on a posting and all of a sudden see the Z that I wanted to build! It was orange, lowered, had a Xenon air dam, roll bar, 5-speed, R200, and a complete interior. It was an early 260Z but needless to say, I picked it up for $2500 and actually drove it home (yeah, I actually bought a drivable Z! ). It had some electrical issues and a very loud exhaust, but I was ecstatic to have a driving Z again! Now that I had three Zs, I had to get rid of one as I had two shells taking up space in the garage. Over the course of two days, I removed the complete suspension from the Red Z, swapped out the Illuminas and Eibachs from the struts and put it the old stuff from the Blue Z, and moved the subframes to the Blue Z. By myself. Yes, it was a lot of work! I put Blue Z up on CL since it was the rusty one. It was essentially stripped, but the new buyer bought her for $400, which is what I originally paid for the complete car! It was apparently going to be used as a front frame donor for a '72 240Z that the buyer's son crashed. It was sad to see my first Z-car go, remembering that I told myself I'd never get rid of it, but logic prevails and I was glad it went to a good cause. At least a bunch of its parts will be used by me! Now, the 260Z didn't come without problems. It has a story of its own, coming from the Gunn HS auto shop in Palo Alto and holding a salvage title. My father and I determined that it was hit and repaired in the left rear quarter, but the frame was straight. It even came with the original radio, some original manuals and warranty card! First off, on the way home I start smelling coolant and decide to pull over at the Edgewood Road exit of I280. Sure enough, I forgot to put the radiator cap back on after topping off on coolant ! Moreover, the radiator had barfed out some brown sludge that didn't even resemble anything that should be in an automotive cooling system. Clearly, this car was neglected, as if I couldn't tell by the hole in the radiator... Luckily, my girlfriend had come with me and we were driving back in our cars together, so we went to a gas station, picked up some water and eventually made it home. Here it is sharing space with Red Z (the 240Z) in its current state. Obviously, The cooling system was the first order of business. I decided to replace the water pump, fan clutch (since the one on the car was stuck), radiator and coolant hoses. I ended up also replacing the water inlet and thermostat housing because of corrosion damage. I got a nice surprise when I removed the old water pump: Did I mention it was neglected? Indeed. New Pump was installed along with hoses and the ol' ebay special aluminum radiator. Yes, a hole in the radiator. Oooh, shiny! I got it roadworthy and decided to take some video. Mute your volume until after the glitch at 0:03. Next order of business was the electrical system. The PO wired in a starter switch because the ignition switch would intermittently start the car (sound familiar?). However, the way he wired it created a short, and rendered all gauges useless as well as the turn signals! The switch and PO's wiring was removed, and I got my gauges and turn signals back. I also installed a 30A relay and now the 260Z starts with no problem, everytime. The tach had to be replaced as it was dead, but then my speedo stopped working. Hmmm, some sort of inverse relationship, when one works the other doesn't. I traced wires per the FSM wiring diagram and reconnected some loose connections. It was getting there! I had some 40DCOE triple Webers laying around so I decided to replace the aging SUs and some gaskets along the way. After the Webers I changed the oil to synthetic and Redline MTL in the tranny and drove it around a bit more. But I couldn't help feeling that the car still wasn't right. I mentioned that the car was lowered, but the way that it was done was by cutting the stock springs. The rears easily bottomed out and there was a lot of squat on acceleration. It definitely did not ride well. I decided to change the shocks and springs, but of course that turned into a full-fledged suspension rebuild. Over the course of the first 5 months of 2011, the car was down for Eibach springs, Tokico HP dampers, poly bushings, ball joints and tie rods. I painted the parts while I was at it, and switched out the 3.54 rear diff for a 3.9 R200 I had. I did the whole suspension but didn't take very good pics of the front. I apologize for my crappy camera as well! Front Rear Old Smoke 'em out! Diff crossmember Control Arm New spindle pins Poly bushings Looking good Before After At the same time, I fixed up the interior. It was essentially complete but the center console was absolutely butchered. I replaced it with a brand new console, new shift boot, ZTek billet shift knob and a 240Z steering wheel (looking for a Momo now). Old New (need a better pic...) The Z was getting even closer to where I really want it to be. It was dropped back on its wheels in the end of May, go it aligned early June and drove it a week until I got some new wheels! I attended the ZONC show a few days later on July 10th, the first time actually taking a Z to a meet or show of any kind! Here is a video from today, to compare to the one above if nothing else. The drivetrain differences between the two videos are the rebuilt suspension, 3.9 diff and Webers. Redline fluids used in tranny and differential. I tried to make it similar to the previous video, but it was recorded with a different camera. Of course, there is still much work to be done! I'm planning to install some 240Z bumpers soon, custom twice pipes, racing seats, aftermarket steering wheel, etc. I'm also hoping to start autoX soon. These cars are never done... I'll add some more pics tomorrow and try to keep this thread updated. Thanks for reading if you've managed to get this far!

Yes, that's what offset is: the relation of the wheel mounting surface to the centerline of the rim, and from the pictures it looks like offset is positive considering the rims are 7" wide. You've already measured backspacing and concluded that offset is excessively positive for S30 fitment. There's no black magic about it, if they hit the struts when installed then they need spacers. Otherwise, you need to ditch them and get a wheel that fits.

If you're interested in my 3.54 R200, I can meet you close by as I work in Petaluma.

He had to have been using spacers. Those wheels definitely have a substantial positive offset.

Spring/struts are stock. Going from 205mm to 225mm section width tires increases total width by 20mm, meaning 10mm on each side. That's about 0.4 inches. If you use your pictured wheels with 225mm wide tires, my guess is you'll be fine. Backspacing of 4.75" on a 7" wide rim equates to an offset in the neighborhood of +20mm, too much for a Z. You need spacers or a different wheel.

16X7, zero offset, 225/50 on a dropped 260Z and no rubbing issues that I've noticed. Sounds like your wheels might have some positive offset, setting them back into the wheel-wells. Gabe has a point, check your wheel offset. If it's not stamped on the wheel then you can measure it yourself.

Exactly. As 74_5.0L_Z points out, the rear suspension becomes fully adjustable and the camber curve is redesigned as well. Plus, it's cool as hell!

That wouldn't work... Mongo, that is such a sweet setup!

What I don't understand is why slap on carbs (or anything) on your car and not have any idea as to how they work? Your next step should be researching online, or better yet, buy a Weber book.

Use google and put site:hybridz.org after your search terms. It will only display results from this site.

Bad idea, unless you want to restrict your exhaust and shoot fire out of it...

I recently installed silver Panasports on my orange 260Z. EDIT: Better pic. From today's ZONC show.

The early 260Z also uses studs, not sure about late 260Z.

Do you mean to say you ordered 12 timeserts, not 10? There are 12 valves...

A bit defensive are we? I think you took Tony's post the completely wrong way...

Looks like a Nissan Motorsports header to me.

John was speaking of a megaphone at the collector. One at the end of an exhaust pipe will have a much diminished effect. We did not squeeze the throat down, as that will reduce performance because of an increase in pumping losses. As John has also mentioned, run as big of a pipe off the megaphone as possible. There's no point in creating pumping losses when you don't need to. The resonance effect is what 2-stroke engines use in order to have any sort of powerband, and the effect is similar on a 4-stroke. The physics of it aren't really like the way you describe, as a properly tuned exhaust "scavenges" the cylinder. The megaphone reflects compression waves all the way down its length, turning them into expansion waves. At a certain rpm bandwidth these expansion waves hit the exhaust valve just before it closes, drawing out more burned gasses, dropping the pressure in the combustion chamber, which then admits more air/fuel mixture. Intake tuning is the opposite, with compression waves increasing intake pressure causing a "ram" (or "supercharging") effect. An intake bell-mouth is the analogue to an exhaust megaphone. A properly designed intake-exhaust combo will do wonders!