Leon

I'm betting this is part of the ad revenue generation that you see when you're not a donating member. I do not see these links but have seen it on other forums.

Hi guys. A very good friend of mine passed away recently after a long, difficult battle with pancreatic cancer. He was a very warm-hearted and generous person. In this spirit, he decided to hand me his race car. I now find myself looking for a modest multipurpose vehicle that can tow a car, around 2500lb, on an open trailer - which I have not sourced yet. I expect total trailer weight to be under 4500lb. With that said, it'll be used for towing maybe 5% of the year. 95% of the time, it'll serve as a daily driver (fuel mileage, comfort), family car (safety features, wife approval), dog car (loading height, rear room for two 70lb dogs), and a camping/ski trip car (cram as much people and crap as possible, AWD). Thus, trucks are out of the picture. A manual transmission would be a plus but I realize it's a rarity in the US in this segment. Looking to spend no more than $15k. So far, I have a top-3 of: '06+ Volvo XC90 V8 '10+ Ford Flex Ecoboost 3/4/5th gen 4Runner Clearly, I haven't really nailed down the 4Runner but the 3rd gen is appealing if only due to the option to get a manual transmission. The later cars are certainly more refined and have better safety features. Also, we like the roll-down rear window for the dogs. The Flex seems practical due to its low loading height and spaciousness, and it also looks more fun to drive than the rest. The XC90 looks to be the best highway mileage-eater. Plus, it's got lots of nifty features regarding safety and usability. Does anyone have experience with any of these vehicles or maybe suggest something that I've missed that also fits the bill?

Yup, I've been working with Keith for a few years. My previous L24 with DCOEs had an absolutely flat-line mixture at 12.5:1 using Keith's bubbling e-tubes. I'm sure I posted that chart in my old thread on the orange car. I'm waiting on Keith's newest development to put into my current Z. I've got F11 tubes and they have the same pronounced rich dip at 3000-4000RPM.

The AFR dip is due to the emulsion tube. You can work around it by fiddling with other jets but it will remain. Keith's e-tubes are the better solution but if you're in a hurry, try an F7 or F16. Set floats using Keith's method to 25mm below the jet stack table.

Correct. And I also wouldn't have any qualms of it being 5W-30 nor whether it has extra ZDDP...

You can't deny that S2000 rod clearances are looser nominally than 280Z clearances. That puts that argument to bed. Just trying to say that things aren't as different as you're painting them to be, with regards to using a 10W-30 oil in an L-series. I'd be more than happy to switch to a 5W-30 synthetic modern oil on my .540" lift cam L28 to see about the "rapid destruction of the Cam lobes".

Put a timing gun on the suspect cylinder's plug wire and make sure it's firing consistently.

I dunno about that, swapping heads is pretty damn easy on these things!

L-series bearing clearances are really not much different from modern engines, I'm genuinely curious where you got that idea? Here's a comparison, based on some FSMs I had on hand: 1978 Datsun 280Z - Standard Rod clearances: 0.0010"-0.0022" Main clearances: 0.0008"-0.0028" 2003 Honda S2000 - Standard Rod clearances: 0.0012"-0.0021" Main clearances: 0.0007"-0.0016" The 280Z actually has a tighter nominal rod bearing clearance than an S2000! I also don't buy the ZDDP myth. I ran my last 260Z on Mobil1 10W-30 synthetic without issue and it's still running strong today under its current owner. FWIW, my first try at a hot L28 wiped its cam, using Brad Penn break-in oil... Take a look at this site, it's a long read and the guy is a bit much at times but some interesting quantitative data can be gleaned from his testing (and hints at why I may have wiped that cam...): https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/19918-the-ultimate-turbo-faqbeginners-guide/

Set the engine to TDC @ compression stroke (make sure both #1 valves are closed, check through oil filler hole). With engine at TDC, look where both the rotor in your distributor is pointing and where your crank pulley timing indicator is pointing. Take your time (no pun intended) and ensure everything lines up perfect before taking measurements.

Thanks for trying that. Wondering if it's some weird bug, I don't think there are any features in place to lock someone out of a thread. Blocking someone merely hides their comment.

Now it seems the problem may be localized to just that one thread...

I simply added a reply, no way to edit since there was no content in the first place. I suppose since there was no content, the reply shows as the original post. I've tried multiple computers and browsers and am not able to reply to the thread I've been meaning to reply to: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127430-no-overheat-still-get-oil-cooler-for-race-car/ I get the same error pictured in my first post if I go through "More Reply Options". If I simply press "Post", the Post and More Reply Options boxes disappear and are replaced with "Saving..." but it never actually posts. I've also PM'd SuperDan about this 3 days ago.

I'm surprised that actually went through as I haven't been able to post or comment for the last week.

I tried to post this last week but looks like it randomly popped up a couple of days ago, and without any of the post content. Anyone else having issues? This site has been unusable for me for the past week...

Take out your mixture screws and see if that orifice is blocked. If you're definitely getting fuel and it runs on all 6 on the mains, then it certainly sounds like something going on with the idle circuits for those cylinders.

My 260Z FSM specifies anything from a 5W-30 to a 20W-40 depending on climate. I'd argue that 20W-50 is actually too thick and you can go as thin as 5W-30 which I would not hesitate to use in my motor.

You sure you don't have #4 and #5 plug wires mixed up? Otherwise, I'd check the condition of your idle jets for those cylinders. Could be a clog in the jet or passage. Clean with solvent and compressed air.

Well that was fun, I lost my entire reply as well... Cam timing and chain length go hand-in-hand, milling the head retards the cam. Depending on your cam gear, you may be able to adjust the timing back to straight up (if that's what is desired). Shaving the P79 more than .080" on flat tops and OEM head gasket will give >11:1 compression. Whether it'll run on 91 depends on the quality of your fuel and timing management, i.e. your components and tune. If you cam manage the fuel properly but have an old distributor, there will be problems and vice-versa. Piston-to-valve clearance needs to be measured with your specific setup and cam timing. I have no idea what a "stage 3" cam is. I advise you to talk to a cam grinder about your specific build so that they can cut a cam for you, instead of picking something out of a catalog. I'm running a flat-top L28 with a 2mm shaved P90 and an Isky L6 grind (0.540" lift, 270deg). PTV clearances were measured to be >0.080" and deemed acceptable. I have more details on the build in this thread if you're interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/ Also, this engine will be screaming for a set of 45mm triples or ITBs!

That's some serious rubber!

It's been a while and there's actually not too much to report which is a good thing! I drive the Z once every week or two. However, there are a few annoying things to take care of: Rev-hang when shifting and blipping the throttle. This does not seem to be a linkage problem but a fueling or vacuum leak issue. The car idles well but sometimes hangs at 3k RPM before dropping. The bigger issue is that there just needs to be more fine-tuning done with the idle/transition circuit. I get pops out the carbs during highway cruise once in a while and have a tip-in stumble. Looking forward to sticking in Keith Franck's jets once I have some more time to tune. I also feel the engine leaning out at high RPM even though the dyno showed good AFR at high RPM. This indicates a weak fuel pump (O'Reilly-special thumper) which I'm looking to upgrade. Otherwise, I've still got the 3.9 CLSD waiting to go in whenever I get to it. That should wake the car up quite a bit although I do enjoy the long gearing of the 3.54 for cruising.

Buying a car in CA requires a smog cert for '76 or newer, whether it's bought in or out of state. Out of state cars also need a VIN inspection which can be done at the DMV. All they do is check all the VIN plates to make sure nothing fishy is going on. In other words, a '76 or newer car needs to pass SMOG before it can be registered. A '75 or older brought in from out of state is subject to a VIN verification but not a SMOG test. You are supposed to comply with the rules for the older cars but like was said earlier, they won't check since SMOG is not required.

Nice!

That would be the L6 grind: .550" lift/236° @ 0.050".