Leon

Pull your valve cover and inspect. Also send your used oil in for analysis, I use Blackstone Labs.

Installing (and removing) them as a unit is easily accomplished, given that you leave the manifolds off. A load leveler and having an extra hand or two helps. Last engine/trans assembly I helped drop in, we had it done in about 15 minutes. Definitely helps to have a few friends assist!

The difference is mostly in the progression holes and air-bypass screws. If you're looking for 40's, I'd go for the 151. It's the latest version with the air bypass screws which allow for synchronization of both barrels to each other. Older carbs did not have this. The new 40's (151) can be easily identified when compared to older 40DCOEs. The new carbs have added ribs on the float bowl cover casting as well as the air bypass screws: Above all, I recommend getting a set in as good of shape as possible. Otherwise, plan to rebuild the carbs. The throttle shaft seals on older carbs should be replaced.

I think Tim wins... Nice, that's the same cam I use in my NA L28 (Isky L6 grind). I could use more duration as my power peaks at 6000RPM. The torque tip is due to the crappy F11 emulsion tube, planning to tune that out in the coming months.

Sounds good! Going to the dyno any time soon Steve? What's your setup currently, are you EFI yet?

Coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road.

Looking good!

The L24 head gasket's fire ring is just a little too small to work on an L28... don't ask how I know. Get an L28 gasket that best matches the E88. Can't say I have an answer on that.

That's some nice stuff! Let me know if you wanna get rid of any of it...

Wow, that's scary. Certainly a design flaw, that adjuster is undersized for the application.

Gotcha. I'm not familiar enough with Mikunis but maybe you can find someone that does remote tunes, i.e. rent a dyno and have the tuner on-call via phone/email as you tune. You can email graphs and they recommend changes. I did this for a few customers when I was the tuner at Works. It would definitely be interesting to compare, although unfortunately comparing numbers on different dynos is pretty much useless. I've seen as much as 50hp swings between dynos with the same car. Looks like you'll have to make a trip out to Northern California!

Thanks Ryan, you should put it on the dyno and find out! Bring your jets...

Great vision and execution!

Thanks guys! Video is up.

The time has come, I finally made it to the dyno today! Tuning was done on the Dynapack at the shop I used to work at, Works Motorsports at Sonoma Raceway. Swami joined for the day, driving in on my old 260Z which he's done a great job cleaning up! We did some carb-sync work on it while he was there and I took a test drive for old time's sake. That Z is so dialed! I played with various combos of jetting along with the crappy F11 e-tubes and ended up at 135/F11/110 (main/tube/air). This was the best combo I found from my Weber stash but far from perfect, as there is a big rich spot that's causing the torque dip in the midrange that I minimized but could not get rid of. The F11 tube is to blame, I'm planning to alleviate that... Once jetting was done, I played with timing. First using the ZX distributor and then the 123ignition tune-able unit. I optimized timing with the E12-80 before swapping to the 123. Interestingly enough, I didn't get any appreciable peak gains from the 123. I have a feeling that if I clean up the midrange fueling, the 123 may make more of a difference. All said and done, peak timing was 34 degrees. Needless to say, I was very happy with the results and surprised that I could run at 11:1 compression with 34 degrees of advance on 91 octane! Guess I have the P90 to thank for that. When I originally build this motor, I was hoping for 200hp at the crank and I almost hit it at the wheels! The yellow line is with the mesh filters and the red line is without. Looks like those filters are worth about 6hp. I'd like to do another dyno visit in a few months to address the mixture issue and play with cam timing, either with the stock sprocket or an adjustable one (which I'd have to source). Very happy with this! Videos to come as Swami was the videographer for the day.

VTEC yo!

Now's the time to buy with the low GBP...

These are awesome! I love my Webers but I'll have to keep these in mind. Would go nicely with the 123ignition distributor...

You may need the matching driveshaft and diff pinion flange. Madkaw did this swap I believe.

Nice, thanks Joe.

Fiddled around a bit today, finally fixing my linkage so it can go 100% WOT. I realized I have zero videos of this thing actually running so I thought I'd take a video clip to prove that it has at least run at some point. https://youtu.be/4zBHPFeDFno

Great stuff guys. I'm curious, when you swapped to 45s did you also swap intake manifolds? Where the intakes match-ported to the head, carbs, or both? Very interesting to see the huge difference going to 45s makes (keeping venturi size constant). Really nice data here!

Assuming you're talking about the fuel pump cover plate, you can get one from Nissan for $20: https://nissanparts.cc/parts/index.cfm?make=Nissan&year=&searchText=16420-E3020&action=oePartSearch&siteid=218242 Ref: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head

Great stuff! Nearly 300bhp is no joke. Looking forward to the writeup.

Glorious! Great job Mark, it's been a long road.