Leon

Well that was fun, I lost my entire reply as well... Cam timing and chain length go hand-in-hand, milling the head retards the cam. Depending on your cam gear, you may be able to adjust the timing back to straight up (if that's what is desired). Shaving the P79 more than .080" on flat tops and OEM head gasket will give >11:1 compression. Whether it'll run on 91 depends on the quality of your fuel and timing management, i.e. your components and tune. If you cam manage the fuel properly but have an old distributor, there will be problems and vice-versa. Piston-to-valve clearance needs to be measured with your specific setup and cam timing. I have no idea what a "stage 3" cam is. I advise you to talk to a cam grinder about your specific build so that they can cut a cam for you, instead of picking something out of a catalog. I'm running a flat-top L28 with a 2mm shaved P90 and an Isky L6 grind (0.540" lift, 270deg). PTV clearances were measured to be >0.080" and deemed acceptable. I have more details on the build in this thread if you're interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111062-leons-other-260z/ Also, this engine will be screaming for a set of 45mm triples or ITBs!

That's some serious rubber!

It's been a while and there's actually not too much to report which is a good thing! I drive the Z once every week or two. However, there are a few annoying things to take care of: Rev-hang when shifting and blipping the throttle. This does not seem to be a linkage problem but a fueling or vacuum leak issue. The car idles well but sometimes hangs at 3k RPM before dropping. The bigger issue is that there just needs to be more fine-tuning done with the idle/transition circuit. I get pops out the carbs during highway cruise once in a while and have a tip-in stumble. Looking forward to sticking in Keith Franck's jets once I have some more time to tune. I also feel the engine leaning out at high RPM even though the dyno showed good AFR at high RPM. This indicates a weak fuel pump (O'Reilly-special thumper) which I'm looking to upgrade. Otherwise, I've still got the 3.9 CLSD waiting to go in whenever I get to it. That should wake the car up quite a bit although I do enjoy the long gearing of the 3.54 for cruising.

Buying a car in CA requires a smog cert for '76 or newer, whether it's bought in or out of state. Out of state cars also need a VIN inspection which can be done at the DMV. All they do is check all the VIN plates to make sure nothing fishy is going on. In other words, a '76 or newer car needs to pass SMOG before it can be registered. A '75 or older brought in from out of state is subject to a VIN verification but not a SMOG test. You are supposed to comply with the rules for the older cars but like was said earlier, they won't check since SMOG is not required.

Nice!

That would be the L6 grind: .550" lift/236° @ 0.050".

Pull your valve cover and inspect. Also send your used oil in for analysis, I use Blackstone Labs.

Installing (and removing) them as a unit is easily accomplished, given that you leave the manifolds off. A load leveler and having an extra hand or two helps. Last engine/trans assembly I helped drop in, we had it done in about 15 minutes. Definitely helps to have a few friends assist!

The difference is mostly in the progression holes and air-bypass screws. If you're looking for 40's, I'd go for the 151. It's the latest version with the air bypass screws which allow for synchronization of both barrels to each other. Older carbs did not have this. The new 40's (151) can be easily identified when compared to older 40DCOEs. The new carbs have added ribs on the float bowl cover casting as well as the air bypass screws: Above all, I recommend getting a set in as good of shape as possible. Otherwise, plan to rebuild the carbs. The throttle shaft seals on older carbs should be replaced.

I think Tim wins... Nice, that's the same cam I use in my NA L28 (Isky L6 grind). I could use more duration as my power peaks at 6000RPM. The torque tip is due to the crappy F11 emulsion tube, planning to tune that out in the coming months.

Sounds good! Going to the dyno any time soon Steve? What's your setup currently, are you EFI yet?

Coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road.

Looking good!

The L24 head gasket's fire ring is just a little too small to work on an L28... don't ask how I know. Get an L28 gasket that best matches the E88. Can't say I have an answer on that.

That's some nice stuff! Let me know if you wanna get rid of any of it...

Wow, that's scary. Certainly a design flaw, that adjuster is undersized for the application.

Gotcha. I'm not familiar enough with Mikunis but maybe you can find someone that does remote tunes, i.e. rent a dyno and have the tuner on-call via phone/email as you tune. You can email graphs and they recommend changes. I did this for a few customers when I was the tuner at Works. It would definitely be interesting to compare, although unfortunately comparing numbers on different dynos is pretty much useless. I've seen as much as 50hp swings between dynos with the same car. Looks like you'll have to make a trip out to Northern California!

Thanks Ryan, you should put it on the dyno and find out! Bring your jets...

Great vision and execution!

Thanks guys! Video is up.

The time has come, I finally made it to the dyno today! Tuning was done on the Dynapack at the shop I used to work at, Works Motorsports at Sonoma Raceway. Swami joined for the day, driving in on my old 260Z which he's done a great job cleaning up! We did some carb-sync work on it while he was there and I took a test drive for old time's sake. That Z is so dialed! I played with various combos of jetting along with the crappy F11 e-tubes and ended up at 135/F11/110 (main/tube/air). This was the best combo I found from my Weber stash but far from perfect, as there is a big rich spot that's causing the torque dip in the midrange that I minimized but could not get rid of. The F11 tube is to blame, I'm planning to alleviate that... Once jetting was done, I played with timing. First using the ZX distributor and then the 123ignition tune-able unit. I optimized timing with the E12-80 before swapping to the 123. Interestingly enough, I didn't get any appreciable peak gains from the 123. I have a feeling that if I clean up the midrange fueling, the 123 may make more of a difference. All said and done, peak timing was 34 degrees. Needless to say, I was very happy with the results and surprised that I could run at 11:1 compression with 34 degrees of advance on 91 octane! Guess I have the P90 to thank for that. When I originally build this motor, I was hoping for 200hp at the crank and I almost hit it at the wheels! The yellow line is with the mesh filters and the red line is without. Looks like those filters are worth about 6hp. I'd like to do another dyno visit in a few months to address the mixture issue and play with cam timing, either with the stock sprocket or an adjustable one (which I'd have to source). Very happy with this! Videos to come as Swami was the videographer for the day.

VTEC yo!

Now's the time to buy with the low GBP...

These are awesome! I love my Webers but I'll have to keep these in mind. Would go nicely with the 123ignition distributor...

You may need the matching driveshaft and diff pinion flange. Madkaw did this swap I believe.