Leon

Your quest is noble but as with any good experiment, you may find it difficult to get proper results without controlling key variables. At the very least, closely monitor oil, coolant, and intake temps. Trans, diff, and wheel bearing temps play into it as well and if it's a rolling drum type dyno, keep an eye on your tire pressures. I hope this dyno shop has a good ventilation system, it's no fun being in a hot, fume-filled dyno room all day. Do a dry run beforehand, practice swapping out whatever you'll be swapping out. Time yourself so you have a clearer expectation of what you'll be able to get done. Things always take longer than they do...

Here's a much simpler method to checking whether it's a float level issue. Take a jet cover off and pull one main stack out. Use a flashlight to look down into the empty hole and see if fuel is spilling over the brim to the auxiliary venturi passageway. If it is, you have a float/needle and seat issue. This can be done with the fuel pump on (if electric) and/or the car running. It should take all of 30 seconds to do.

The MJ is crank-triggered thus more accurate. It also uses a coil pack which enables higher RPM coil stability. There is a larger tuning window with MJ as it gives you a 3D map whereas the 123 only let's you program in individual 2D mechanical advance and vacuum advance curves. That's my biggest gripe with the 123, they should just give you a map instead of dumbing down their tech. With that said, the 123 looks the part and I don't have to mount the extra bits that you would with the MJ.

I've got one. Love it for the tuneability along with retaining old-school looks. My previous Z had Webers + Megajolt which is objectively a better system but I wanted to keep this one period-looking.

That's a C10 Skyline with a GTR airbox. Looks great!

If you used a stock clutch, the pedal will be lighter than expected as mentioned above. I also agree that you might still have some air in the line. Frankly, I wouldn't worry about it unless you know you have an actual issue. The worst that will happen is you start the car and can't put it in gear because your clutch isn't disengaging.

Looks normal to me, it's a self adjusting slave just doing its job. Have you been able to drive the car yet?

I used Mobil1 on my previous Z for years without issue...

Agreed, it's been really fun to see you develop this car as well as run it with NASA. That's what those race classes are all about, pick a chassis and have fun with it instead of "last year's winner drove an M3 so I'm building an M3". I run TT (not in a Z, I'm not brave enough) with NASA but looking to get into W2W, if not this year then 2019. Hoping to also run the 25 Hour next year... Good luck in Chuckwalla!

Really enjoyed the write up in this month's issue of NASA Speed News, great work Tom! https://drivenasa.cld.bz/NASA-Speed-News-Volume-7-Issue-1-February/70/

It's not really for the hell of it but for manufacturability, i.e. at some point you're adding steps and time to your process for diminishing returns. They can be further optimized for specific applications, as Tim has done. Doesn't mean that the Nissan engineers purposely threw more weight on them, nor does it mean that Tim necessarily knows something the engineers didn't. It's all a matter of application. I also don't see a great case for a broken rocker destroying pistons or the valvetrian. You can nick a cam lobe maybe. E30s break rockers on track all the time, swap the offending rocker and off you go.

Interesting. Do you have a way to lock out the jack screw after adjustment?

I have a feeling it's more dependent on whether the car was AC-equipped and possibly other factors, probably not just cut-and-dry 240Z vs. 280Z. The answer is yes, some have it on the driver's side and others on the passenger's. And they're somewhere around 120 degrees apart. To be confident of the timing marks, either find TDC and point the pointer at zero or get the proper timing indicator plate.

Sounds about right.

The power is already corrected, according to the chart. A dynojet+25% correction is telling me that there's something left on the table.

There's no point in running high lift when the rest of your system can't make use of it, you have to see the big picture. I'm also running triple 45s with a ported intake and a 6-1 header into a 2.5" exhaust. I sized my cam based on a conversation with Ron Iskenderian about my use case. Most cams you see advertised online are the tip of the iceberg, just bulk items sold to people that want to say they have a "Stage III cam". Talk to a cam grinder and expand your horizons. I will say with the .540 lift cam, there was little room for error during setup due to it using a lot of the lash pad.

FWIW, looks like there's a 25% correction factor applied in an attempt to adjust for the altitude. Motor seems either tired or out of tune to me. Start with the basics: valve adjustment, timing, compression check, fuel mixture (dyno shop should've output that). Make sure ignition system is in good shape, e.g. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and properly functioning advance.

Not really. I'm running an Isky L6 grind (.540" lift, 270 duration) with flat-top pistons and a Rebello "street ported" P90 on an OEM HG. From memory, my measured piston-head clearance is 0.023", piston-valve is ~0.080", and compression is 11:1. Runs great on 91, even with MBT timing @ 35* all in if I remember right.

Great detective work! Ah the fun of engine calibration... Many think it's just dialing in fuel and spark tables but that's just the tip of the iceberg. It's work like this that really refines the experience. Well done.

Wow, interesting. I guess that explains my smoked valve guides. FWIW, I ended up going with OEM exhaust and Supertech Intakes by recommendation of Dave Rebello.

I also had a bad experience with SI, they ate the valve guides in short order. Go with OEM.

You don't mention your tire size and use case but I've been loving the Bridgestone RE71Rs on my S2k track car. Planning to run Nitto NT01s next. With that said, I've heard good things about the Rival S 1.5 so you can't go wrong there.

Check out the Sidedraft Central Yahoo group and read through Keith's white paper on carb setup. It's a bit outdated now but has some great tips on setting up Webers. I'd start there.

Regardless, there is tons of good info in that thread.

If it had an LSD then you got an absolute steal.