Leon

No. It's safe to say that a cammed L28 running lean with retarded timing and a new cat might pass smog. I'd be interested in how that car tests 6-9 months from now...

I'd expect to pay at least $6-8k for what you describe.

It doesn't matter, you're (technically) not allowed to use an engine that has not been certified for passenger car use within the USA.

I'm sure the local Z-club can help. We have a lot of members in NY and I think Clive (EvilC) is the president of the NYZCC.

Got a polished and balanced crank yesterday (thanks to stravi757)! It'll go into the shop for a quick re-polish (specs of surface rust on some journals) and probably check the balance just to be sure.

Crank purchased. Thanks!

Yeah, I linked that for him too. The thing is that the same link is on the atlanticz website...

I don't have a specific number in mind, but as close as I can get away with. I'd be happy with .025-.030".

I'd recommend a straight (not bent) intake. You can either have a straight runner with a taper/bell mouth at the end, or a fully tapered runner. Options for length tuning are nice (bolt-on air horns). Offer different head flange IDs (40mm, 45mm). Bosses for fuel rail mounts and vacuum taps for each runner might be nice as well.

Oh, and those head gaskets came in too. Thanks again Jim, I owe you one!

Will do. I did read his thread on how he installs them so I'll be extra careful (don't forget those valve stem condoms!).

A few more knick-knacks...

Cool, I'd be interested in something like this when I go EFI for sure! Hell, something like this might make me want to switch to EFI given that I like the design.

"Built-in" ITBs? Interested in how that works...

What's wrong with the guide at atlanticZ? http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105

"I'll show you mine if you show me yours..."

What makes you think that something happened to the clutch? I'm a bit confused here...

Already got a possible source for a crank thanks to the local network (thanks Leo and Kyle!). The parts are beginning to trickle in...

Thanks Randy! This one is supposedly polished, balanced, and still wrapped up. No receipts though, I'm not sure how long it sat, if it's been dropped, etc. I'll be taking a look on Saturday and go from there. Of course, I will keep you in mind in case there's something glaringly wrong. Is yours just a good, used crank?

I've discovered one through our local Z-network (thanks Leo and Kyle!) which I'll be taking a look at on Saturday. Thanks for the PMs so far!

Would've given you one for free if you were local. Good luck!

Strike a few things off the list... - Regrind rockers (shipping off to Delta in next couple of days) - sourcing 2mm/0.080" cam tower shims (considering making these myself or buying from Derek) - sourcing longer valves (SI has great prices) - low profile valve stem seals (FEL-PRO SS72686 bought on ebay) - figuring out my cam and springs, lash pads may need replacement (Isky) - Head gasket (will probably get Fel-Pro) - Manifold studs (MSA) - Manifold gasket (Rockauto) - Valve spring shims (TBD) In the meantime, Jim sent me some head gaskets to use for piston-to-head and valve clearance checks (thanks again Jim!). Also, the machinist called yesterday to inform me that the crank needs turning, as the journals have rust on them. I'm now on the lookout for a stock L28 crank in good shape (posted a WTB ad here). I've got some local guys on the lookout as well. If I can't find one soon, I'll have to get mine turned and balanced. We'll see what happens...

Looking for a stock L28 crank in good shape, preferably local (San Bruno/SF Bay Area) since these things are heavy and are probably expensive to ship. Plus, I'd hate to receive a damaged crank... My engine is at the machine shop and the crank has rust on it, thus requiring turning and balancing. If I could get a crank that's in good shape it would save some time and money. If not, I'll have to have my crank turned and balanced.

Nice find!

Yes, that's what the proportioning valve is for.