Leon

I like the soft-line idea, also curious about implementation.

Yep, I've begun seeing ads as well... I'll gladly donate more if it's needed to get the ads away.

Looking good, Matt! This is the fun part. I should get a capture of my map...

Awesome! That's exactly the setup I've been thinking of going with on my green car. Do 225/50-16s not fit? Any fender lip modifications? Got any more pics?

Nice work!

Fun stuff indeed! It should spin freely past 7k RPM but retain decent mid-range grunt. I wish I could race through 8k RPM but I don't think the pistons would like that very much. I'll be using a 10lb Tilton flywheel but undecided on clutch so far. I have a brand new stock clutch that I can use but unsure of how much stress it will take. Great info on the springs, thanks! I was going to do just that, talk to Isky and see what they think. I think I'll end up being OK without any spring spacers, it was just a note I wanted in there so I keep it in mind. I'll take you up on that generous offer! I'll take the head gaskets. Just let me know how much and where to send monies to cover postage.

Current to-do/buy list: - Regrind rockers (I know Delta Cams does it for a good price) - sourcing 2mm/0.080" cam tower shims (considering making these myself or buying from Derek) - sourcing longer valves (Rockauto or SI) - low profile valve stem seals (FEL-PRO SS72686, thanks for the tip Leo!) - figuring out my cam and springs, lash pads may need replacement (Isky) - Head gasket (unsure...) - Manifold studs and gasket (MSA/Rockauto/local) - Valve spring shims (not yet found)

Thanks Jim! I'll be assembling the head myself, so no custom cam yet. If I run into an issue of a custom grind being way too expensive, I'll have to settle for Isky's Stage 3 as I think it'll be close to what I'm looking for. Either way, I'd like to experiment with a custom grind at some point, even if it doesn't happen this time. I'm still working on my cam sizing spreadsheet. Still need to figure out minimum lift and overlap numbers... The triple Webers on my orange car use the stock fuel rail, with the feed coming in at the front carb, daisy-chained to the rear, and back into the fuel rail. I plugged the return almost 2 years ago when chasing a fueling issue (turned out to be the filter) and never unplugged it, although I probably should. I've not had vapor locking issues though, even in 100deg+ heat at Long Beach last year. On this Z, I'm doing away with the stock rail altogether and will be using AN lines, with a return. Good thoughts on the head gasket and piston-to-head clearance, I'll report when I find out.

Block, crank, rods, and head are in the machinist's hands as of Saturday! The block may need to be bored because of rust in the cylinders but otherwise nothing special. Crank will be polished and balanced. Rods, pistons, flywheel and clutch will be balanced as well. Head will be the "typical" modified P90: shaved 2mm, longer valves, yadda-yadda... I just ordered some ARP hardware for the rods and mains. The to-do list, posting so I don't forget something (always happens): send out the rockers to get reground, sourcing 2mm/0.080" cam tower shims, sourcing longer valves, low profile valve stem seals, and figuring out my cam and springs. We'll see what happens with the lash pads. I will need to finalize fuel lines and routing as well. Can't wait to start putting this thing together!

Holy crap, unbelievable is right! That's a crazy deal you got. Luckily, it sounds like you have better taste than the PO...

I run HTR Z3 on my S2000. Great grip, super affordable, and no excessive noise that I've noticed. I got them because of their "bang-for-the-buck" factor.

I agree, looks very fresh and original.

It's definitely the latter! I hate that clevis and cotter pin... I have to use long needle-nose pliers, no way in hell do my hands fit up there.

Nice '73! Looks great.

If you get a "JDM" engine, it won't be smog legal unless it has been certified for use in passenger vehicles in the USA. You'll have to put in due diligence to perform a smog-legal swap. I recommend finding a stock engine and wiring harness unless you really know what you're doing.

Great job Matt, it feels good to be on the road. Don't worry, I'm sure you've done a good job on the install. Given that, the system should be very reliable. The bang was due to your soft limiter. Going WOT at 5k RPM and suddenly retarding timing to 0deg would definitely cause that.

Sweet, thanks! I had no idea the Redline mani had a (partial) balance tube. I should check my TWM... The zero bleeds were part of the final stage of tuning: accel enrichment. I wasn't getting enough of a pump shot so I increased the volume by not letting any fuel bleed back into the float bowls. This was part of what cured my low-RPM pedal-stomp stumble. Tell me about it! I'll keep you posted.

Sucks to hear Ross, hope you get back to "normalcy" soon.

For the archives: it's either an '84 200SX or '80-'86 720 Truck FS5W71C, as I posted in your other thread. http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/gearing2.html

Interesting, looks like what you have there is a FS5W71B from either an '84 200SX or an '80-'86 720 Truck. I found this site extremely useful when doing Datsun transmission research: http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/gearing2.html

To elaborate further on dyno testing differences (and I assume you meant the 340hp figure came from an engine dyno)... If the quoted max power from the engine dyno came from a steady-state test, then power figures (and torque, they're related) are not comparable to chassis dyno ramp runs. A steady-state test will show higher power figures than a ramp run.

Nothing of note to add to this discussion but I do like your user title.

Incessant bumping and posting duplicate threads. Ok, you definitely didn't read the rules...

Dude... I'm guessing you didn't read these when you signed up: HybridZ Rules

Interesting, got some pics of the manifold? Since 1 and 2 aren't right next to each other in the firing order, cross-talk isn't as prevalent when compared to adjacent cylinders (in firing order). As for the discrepancy, that can be due to many different factors. Minute adjustments of the idle speed screw should make up the difference seen on the flow meter. Just make sure that your 1st progression holes are covered. If you have newer carbs (151 series), then they'll have air bleeds which you can use instead and match all carbs to the highest flowing one. I'd play with mixture screws after you get the flow balanced. It's an iterative process, so you'll go back-and-forth a few times. You have a wideband, yes? Makes getting the mixture right much easier.