Leon

Overpriced? Did you pay less for your ratcheting crimper?

That'll work fine.

The 240Z clutch you bought on ebay will work (as long as it matches your flywheel, 225mm or 240mm). Just make sure to have the correct release bearing collar on there.

Too short of a throwout bearing collar for the pressure plate would be my guess. In order to get the car up high enough to get the transmission out, I think it needs to be at least 18" off the ground (I think duragg posted the numbers from the many times he's had to do this). If your driveway is level, you're OK. Just make sure your jackstands are tall enough. Might as well put in a new clutch and consider a lightweight flywheel.

Fantastic info Jim, thanks! I'm hoping to finally make the MSA show next year, although I'm likely to go to JCCS again this year if the Z is ready.

It seems like either the clutch master isn't relieving pressure (not retracting completely) or there is a mechanical issue with the clutch assembly (especially in the release bearing collar and pressure plate combo). For the first issue, make sure that pedal position is adjusted correctly. That procedure is in the FSM. The second issue (mechanical problem) will require taking the transmission out, so I'd check the hydraulics thoroughly before jumping to conclusions.

Not really planning on porting, maybe just port-matching. My 45mm Webers are already port-matched to the Cannon intake. Ideally, I'd probably dump the Cannon and get a manifold made for 45s. From my PM conversation with gollum: if my power peak is to be 6500rpm, I need to be making 145lb-ft at the wheels in order to make 180whp. At 6000rpm, I need to have 158lb-ft at the wheels to make 180whp. My stock-cammed L24 makes ~140lb-ft at 4000rpm, so with a more aggressive cam and a 2.8, I think that should definitely be realistic. With that said, I'm not chasing horsepower. I just want something with a little more "umph" than my L24. It'll be mainly a street car so no wild cams and 9000rpm redlines...

Thanks Matt, progress is picking up! I need this car ready for my wedding in August.

Hey Jim, thanks for the great info! 1. I'm planning on sending the rockers to be reground when getting the cam reground. I've not talked to Isky yet, so I'm not sure whether they do rockers as well. I know Delta up in WA does it pretty cheap. So your solution was to have the rockers ground to fit the profile of the lash pads, if I understand correctly? 2. For cam sizing, I'm planning on running my own calculations to determine necessary lift and duration. I'll speak with Isky regarding it as well, especially regarding lobe separation/overlap. I'll probably have one ground to my specs, unless Isky convinces me otherwise. 3. Thanks for the deck height info. I'll see if I run into the same issues (F54 block with flat-tops). 4. If Derek (on this forum) still makes shims, I was thinking about purchasing them. I don't remember whether his are one-piece (0.080") or two-piece (0.040" X 2). I can also make my own on the wire EDM at work, if I'm feeling really frisky... Thanks Jim!

Looks like I finally have all the parts I need. I bought a P90 and picked it up over the weekend thanks to Ray (and Alex)! Hope you enjoy the pie, Ray. It's complete and looks like a very good candidate for a rebuild. Not bad for $100 (plus gas money and a pie). Sure beats the crap out of those inflated P90 head prices I've been seeing. I'm not one to complain but $600 and it has a chip in the combustion chamber? LOL. Yeah, right... I'll be stripping it down this week and then sending it to the machine shop (not sure whether I'll be using Baca's or Clark's at this point) along with the block, crank, and rods. It'll feel good to finally make progress on this thing.

Also keep in mind that the heim joints alter the pivot point of the rear LCA, so your roll center will be higher and the camber curve will change.

Double whoops...

Whoops, was thinking of something else...

I have an early ('70-'76) driver's door in good shape. I'm in San Bruno, 30min away. I'll sell it cheap.

A "decent price" is always relative to what you're asking about. For what you're asking, a decent price would be at least $3-4k for a properly-built custom coilover setup. I'm sure johnc can quote you a price.

P90 head purchased.

Yeah, I'm forseeing rear track changes mid corner. Also, that control arm is going to bind against the inner bar, once it twists around. That is not a good control arm design. "Not good" is an understatement.

Ha, I was wondering the same! Back when I was in school, there might have been 1 girl in Baha and a handful in FSAE.

Got it. So if you're using the spares then why remove and disassemble the current suspension? Why not leave it be and then swap everything over once you finish the coilovers? I think if you take your time and practice patience, you won't mess up.

I hope you do! By the way, what is the reasoning behind the spare suspension?

AH, Takashi! You lucky guy!!! Both sets I've done took a weekend...

Thanks, emailed!

Thanks Takashi! Good seeing you at the show on Saturday. Get those brakes finished up!

PM sent!

Just a little bit of progress made last weekend. I've been cleaning out the garage for months now, trying to create some semblance and organization of an actual shop (rather than a storage facility). Finally, this weekend it became clean enough to actually move the Z in and out of the garage! Of course, I had to give it the long delayed "first wash"... The paint is in pretty good shape, but needs a good detail. (note: the car is completely dry in these photos) At this point, I'm looking for a good core P90 or P90A head to send to the machine shop. Once I have a head, I should have everything needed to finish it up.