Leon

I measured the head with some vernier calipers before I took it in and the head seemed to be stock thickness (~108mm). It was in great shape and didn't look like it had been messed with. I plan to remeasure chamber volume just to be sure. I'll also measure head thickness to see how much was taken off. A copper gasket sounds nice but the $135 might be hard to swallow right now! I still need to decide on fuel line routing and order AN lines and fittings which will be a pretty big expense. I'll keep the copper gaskets in mind, Jim. Couple more things to cross off the list: - Regrind rockers (shipped to Delta last week) - sourcing 2mm/0.080" cam tower shims (ordered .080" 7075 shim stock yesterday ) - sourcing longer valves (SI has great prices) - low profile valve stem seals (FEL-PRO SS72686 bought on ebay) - figuring out my cam and springs, lash pads may need replacement (made cam sizing spreadsheet, still need to call Isky...) - Head gasket (will probably get Fel-Pro, maybe copper?) - Manifold studs (MSA) - Manifold gasket (turns out I have spares) - Valve spring shims (TBD) I'll also be going through boxes of parts this weekend and trying to inventory what I actually have.

It's a manual rack-and-pinion setup, pretty much as direct as it gets. Everything else is hard to comment on because feel comes from the suspension setup and quickness depends on the length of your steering knuckles. The stock setup is pretty quick, but not lightning-quick like some modern power-assisted setups (which allow for a quicker steering ratio).

Wow, I'm surprised it made such a dramatic difference! You must've had a crappy ignition system beforehand... O2 sensors measure air (Oxygen) concentration in the exhaust stream, with respect to the atmosphere. Less O2 in the exhaust gives a richer reading, no matter how much HC, CO, or CO2 you have in your exhaust. Your meter shows a richer cruise after MJLJ install, meaning you're burning more O2 (and fuel) thus leaving less air in your exhaust stream. Your meter also shows a leaner WOT after install, meaning you're now burning more of the fuel (and O2), enough that the O2 sensor now indicates a lean mix. FWIW...

The uncertainty is about the valves not being installed. Maybe he temporarily installed them with the old springs and hardware? I'll clarify his procedure when I pick up the engine, and I can always double-check myself once I've lapped the valves and installed new hardware. I should be fine at 10:1 as long as I do a good job on the tune and minimize cylinder-to-cylinder variations. That will remain to be seen.

Nice job!

Quick update from machinist: P90 chambers are 44cc. Now I don't know how accurately he cc'd them, but I was expecting closer to 46cc. Thus, my compression ratio will be just about 10:1 depending on compressed head gasket thickness. This is a bit more than I was anticipating but I think it'll be alright given the nice chambers of the P90 plus the hotter cam. He's shooting to have the machine work and balancing done by early next week.

Once you've floored it, you're on the main circuit. The only thing that can help there is a proper emulsion tube. The hypojets make the car more tractable and efficient at lower RPM. The butt-dyno feeling is one of more "crispness" and quicker throttle response. Frankly, I've only run the hypojets with Keith's e-tubes so I can't exactly comment on how they feel on their own, but Zedyone Kenobi (or something like that) on CZC got hypos recently and posted his thoughts on that forum.

No.

My first thought is, why? This is HybridZ and all, but what would the functional purpose be of a rear transaxle in this car?

VLSD only came in Shiro editions I believe, but it would be good to clarify.

I have a couple sets of wheels: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112897-wheels-bumpers-dash-door-r180-wiring-harnesses-etc/

There's one for sale on SF Bay Area Craigslist: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/3862924237.html

You might be able to register under SB100 but I think that may impose restrictions as far as how the car is used. I'm not well-versed in this so don't quote me. Just skip the political crap please. I don't go to HBZ to discuss pot-growing and what state may be a "dictatorship"...

Sure do.

The reason I recommend hypojets is because they're tunable (that 4-in-1 thing) and Keith will exchange jets. I don't think Weber jet distributors do that, AFAIK. Hypojets really wake up the car, especially on the low end (combine with his e-tubes and it's even better).

Those are huge idles. Drop down the orifice size and to a smaller air bleed hole (not sure what F-number that would be). That should lean out your cruise mixture. I recommend Keith Franck's hypojets. They are way better at fuel metering than the Weber ones, plus they're tunable - it's like having 4 jets in one. Going through the process, are now learning the differences between a "running" setup, an OK setup, a good one, and a great one.

Yeah, we get it. "Dictatorship..." Please keep your political thoughts to yourself, at least at HybridZ (it's in the rules, after-all). I'm perfectly happy living where I live. Now get outta here you pot-smoking hippie!

If you get cited for something smog related (e.g. blowing smoke out the tail pipe) you'll be sent to the referee, who will check you off once the issue is taken care of. The referee will know if the engine is non-USA, let alone if it's been swapped and not BAR'd. However, 1975 and older vehicles are exempt from biannual smog testing so people get away with it (until they do something stupid and get sent to the ref).

No. It's safe to say that a cammed L28 running lean with retarded timing and a new cat might pass smog. I'd be interested in how that car tests 6-9 months from now...

I'd expect to pay at least $6-8k for what you describe.

It doesn't matter, you're (technically) not allowed to use an engine that has not been certified for passenger car use within the USA.

I'm sure the local Z-club can help. We have a lot of members in NY and I think Clive (EvilC) is the president of the NYZCC.

Got a polished and balanced crank yesterday (thanks to stravi757)! It'll go into the shop for a quick re-polish (specs of surface rust on some journals) and probably check the balance just to be sure.

Crank purchased. Thanks!

Yeah, I linked that for him too. The thing is that the same link is on the atlanticz website...