Leon

Nice work Ray, you sure are ambitious!

Where exactly does the guide clearly state that an R200 input flange is interchangeable with an R180?

Sweet!!!

Is your MJLJ set up yet? What do you have left before "take-off"? I remember reading that you were close to finished.

I like the 14-inchers, wish there were decent tire options out there. I will hopefully be at Long Beach this year. I went last year in the orange car and I don't think I want to put myself through that again... It would be awesome to meet up, will you be taking the Z to the show?

Hey Matt, I wouldn't say timing is optimized. My map is MAP based (ha!). I did have it on a dyno and hashed out a decent WOT curve. I also did a little bit of part-throttle tuning, but not much as my mixture wasn't close yet. I'm trying to get the mixture where I want it and then I'll do another dyno day.

Awesome work, Jim! The Z looks great, just replace those wheels and you're all set.

It was nice out yesterday so I finally decided to take a decent driving video of the Z. The tune is acceptable but I want leaner AFRs across the board while maintaining crisp throttle response. When going to WOT, I made sure to stomp on the pedal. No feathering the throttle here! Current setup: - L24/E88 longblock (stock cam) - 280Z 5-speed & 3.9 R200 (open) - Nissan Motorsport header into 2" duals - EDIS/Megajolt ignition - 40DCOE Webers (120 main, 120 air, 03 e-tube by Keith Franck, H221 idles/"hypojets" by KF, 53 pumps & zero bleed) I'm planning to drop the idles (to H18) and mains (to 115) and possibly go to a 4-hole (O4) e-tube if I experience throttle-response issues. I also have stiffer internal throttle return springs in the garage waiting to be installed. I'm hoping that those will completely solve my return-to-idle issues.

A have a very straight 240Z center valence, but do not have the sides. I also have a complete early 260Z front valence but the center section is not as straight. I'm in San Bruno... PM if interested.

Yeah, I believe the Nissan Comp (and its copies) were designed for 45s. Maybe some Mikuni manis too. At least I remember reading that... The Cannon definitely has a lot of extra material. I enjoy incremental builds, iterating and seeing the improvements. At this point, I'd like to put the engine together keeping the P90 unported. I can always pick up another head and play with it, while having the car on the road at the same time.

The rear shouldn't get nearly as hot as the front.

As far as LSA goes, personally I don't care about it. If you know the important bits (valve events, lift), LSA doesn't really tell you much more... It's really used more for degreeing than describing a cam's characteristics. Valve overlap degrees will tell you way more than LSA...

That's why I liked the Vintage Connections tool, got 3 sets of dies (insulated, non-insulated, mini).

FYI: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47279-l28-toasting-my-240z-clutch-2.html#post415974

Harbor Freight? Ugh... I bought their crimper plus extra dies, but haven't used them yet. It feels like a great piece though. Only thing that's missing is a backstop, but that can be added.

Cool, no problem. Just sounded a bit sketchy, especially considering you're new. Great looking project!

I've done just fine with my camera and Microsoft Excel... And of course, build threads! Are we sure this guy's not a spammer?

My first thoughts are that you typed in the cam specs wrong. By those numbers, your intake/exhaust duration is 62/318. Hmmm... I'm guessing: EVO=69BBDC EVC=31ATDC IVO=31BTDC IVC=69ATDC That gives 280deg duration with 62deg of overlap. I'm with JeffP regarding lift and duration.

Overpriced? Did you pay less for your ratcheting crimper?

That'll work fine.

The 240Z clutch you bought on ebay will work (as long as it matches your flywheel, 225mm or 240mm). Just make sure to have the correct release bearing collar on there.

Too short of a throwout bearing collar for the pressure plate would be my guess. In order to get the car up high enough to get the transmission out, I think it needs to be at least 18" off the ground (I think duragg posted the numbers from the many times he's had to do this). If your driveway is level, you're OK. Just make sure your jackstands are tall enough. Might as well put in a new clutch and consider a lightweight flywheel.

Fantastic info Jim, thanks! I'm hoping to finally make the MSA show next year, although I'm likely to go to JCCS again this year if the Z is ready.

It seems like either the clutch master isn't relieving pressure (not retracting completely) or there is a mechanical issue with the clutch assembly (especially in the release bearing collar and pressure plate combo). For the first issue, make sure that pedal position is adjusted correctly. That procedure is in the FSM. The second issue (mechanical problem) will require taking the transmission out, so I'd check the hydraulics thoroughly before jumping to conclusions.

Not really planning on porting, maybe just port-matching. My 45mm Webers are already port-matched to the Cannon intake. Ideally, I'd probably dump the Cannon and get a manifold made for 45s. From my PM conversation with gollum: if my power peak is to be 6500rpm, I need to be making 145lb-ft at the wheels in order to make 180whp. At 6000rpm, I need to have 158lb-ft at the wheels to make 180whp. My stock-cammed L24 makes ~140lb-ft at 4000rpm, so with a more aggressive cam and a 2.8, I think that should definitely be realistic. With that said, I'm not chasing horsepower. I just want something with a little more "umph" than my L24. It'll be mainly a street car so no wild cams and 9000rpm redlines...