Leon

Thanks Jim! I actually ordered a new one from Rockauto yesterday, along with the front crank seal and a new oil pump. I figured that I don't have much time to refurbish the old pump. I'll be working on the head in the meantime and I've got the next couple of weekends freed up for car work. It's crunch time!

Good point, and because of the leverage ratio, that 1/16" at the clevis is more like 1/4" at the pedal.

One correction: advancing the cam (as he's doing) moves the power peak to a lower rpm.

You have a 1972 240Z. To attach photos, click "more reply options" underneath the text window and then look below for an "attach files" option.

The serial number represents total, and not model year production.

I know I have at least one. Send me a PM.

Hey Jim, good timing! It's been going pretty slowly... Up until last weekend, it was a lot of parts cleaning, painting, and inventorying what I have. I finally spent all weekend doing engine stuff. This involved a lot of cleaning, assembly, and disassembly. I mic'd all crankshaft journals, the main bearings, and rod bearings (only did 1). From memory, main clearances were mostly .001" with a .0015" and .002" thrown in. Rods were in spec but I don't remember the number. This took quite a while, as I was getting a feel for using the mic and snap gauge. I also verified that 45ft-lb does indeed equate to .0065" of bolt stretch on the ARP rod bolts. I was going to install the crank but I found that the rear-main seal was really loose on the crank (more on that in a second). Towards the end of Sunday I switched to the head and put the valves into their guides, and worked the stem seals onto the valves. The stem seals aren't fully installed yet, but that's the next job on the head. These Ford seals are a bit of a PITA to do right. Then I can temporarily install the outer springs and check the cam wipe pattern. I'm anticipating the need for thicker lash pads. As for the rear main seal, it was very easy to fit it onto the crank and it had a bit of wobble to it when sitting on the crankshaft. It's a Nissan seal for a 200SX (if I remember right), but I cross-referenced the P/N and it said it works for a '79 and later 280ZX. I would think it's the right part then, but the really loose fit on the crank threw me off. Isn't the rear seal supposed to be pretty tight or does it get squished and tighten up when you install the crank into the block?

Thinner? Not really. I bet they used GL-5 fluid in your transmission instead of GL-4. That's what affected your shift quality, as GL-5 is more "slippery" thus does not let the syncros do their job. I'd get a true GL-4 fluid instead of mixing up different grades of gear lube.

Progress is slow, but at least it's progress. I really need to kick it into high gear. If you're going to the ZONC show this weekend or Ivan's show on 8/10 maybe I'll see you there if I have time to go out.

Looking good, Glenn!

Let us know what you're getting!

Have you still not checked the driveshaft bolts?

Nope, it's not obvious. Mark has it right. Track wheels are typically more lightweight and are replaced if one or four happen to bend in an off-track excursion.

Do you also get vibration on the freeway? Sounds just like when I had a couple of loose driveshaft bolts.

Nice Ray!

Thanks for the info!

I appreciate it!

Excellent, I was thinking of going with the exact setup but 225/50 tires. Thanks for the quick reply! Did you have to roll the lip of the front/rear guards?

Damn, that's gorgeous! What are the wheel and tire specs?

Or, maybe you just have a reading-comprehension issue: HybridZ Rules This thread is out-of-date concerning current rules, they really are there for a reason...

A measurement from seat bottom to roof would be great, but that's just the info I was looking for! I just want to be able to fit in my Z with a helmet on without having to cut out the stock seat mounts. Wish you were closer so I could try 'em out...

How tall are you and what's your inseam, out of curiosity? I'm 6'2" (34 inseam) and need lower seats than stock.

A dead-reliable linkage and stiff internal return springs seem to solve most of the issues. There are some good threads on classiczcars.com about it.

I decided to pass on the restored one on ebay and got a nice radio from Clive. Thanks all!