Leon

Long term issues? The pump should last longer and operate quieter, if you want to call those "issues"...

Very nice, looking forward to dyno results!

My thoughts exactly. I'm not a fan of E85 and would not build a performance engine based on that fuel, especially considering its existance is relatively unstable comparted to "normal" gasoline. I hope E85 gets killed off, personally. Get rid of E10, too. I'm not too up on the MN47, but if it puts comp at 11:1 I'd avoid it for anything besides a pure race engine. I assume on dished pistons, the compression ratio would be more within the realm of possibilities. With that said, I see people putting a single spec like comp ratio (or any other given single parameter) on a pedestal all the time. Valve size, header size, R/S ratio, rod length, blah blah blah. It's a system, so it must be treated that way. Frankly, make "enough" compression (>8:1) while minimizing chances of knock and you'll be fine. This is not an all out race engine where we're sqeezing every last 0.1hp that we're talking about here. As for small valves vs. big valves, I'll stand by my statement of "big as possible with minimal shrouding". The only reason for having smaller valves is if your engine is designed for just low-end torque (narrower intake and port runners, low-rpm cam profile) therefore not needing larger valves. That's the case with your SBC truck engines. Valve size is the effect, rather than the cause. It's the classic causation =/= correlation... situation. From this, I hope that one can deduce that just installing bigger valves won't gain you a ton without changing the system. To accompany larger valves, it is beneficial to work the ports, intake and exhaust runners, cam profile, etc.

They're still available new. When I bought mine, it was maybe $60 a set. MSA stocks them, among others.

Gotta pay to play. Play takes payment in the form of time or money, but usually both.

IMO, there is a "best" and that would be to put in as large of a valve as possible without shrouding (unshrouding the chamber helps). This is what an engine designer attempts to maximize. I struggle to believe that just going to larger valves will inherently hurt low end torque. The thing is, smaller engines don't need as large of a valve to breathe. This is the main reason why you see the larger valves on the 2.8 heads and smaller on the 2.4.

Time for some self-aggrandizement. L24 with stock cam, triples, Nissan Motorsports header to twin pipes: Since then, I've switched to EDIS and tuned the spark curve as well as gotten the carbs in a better state of tune. Hopefully, I'll get a new baseline done sometime soon.

Wow, those are very stiff. Hope you have some nice dampers and your chassis has some reinforcement if you plan to run those rates!

You poor guys with your snow! I drove the Z to work yesterday... Let me know how the tach adapter works out, I was planning on constructing the small diode circuit described in the MJLJ install guide. Seems like it works for others, I just haven't gotten to doing it yet (like so many other projects). One thing at a time...

Looks like you chose a good shop to work with! Looking good.

I guess it looks yellow-er in person! At least you've got a speedo to judge speed from. Until recently, my speedo hasn't worked (turned out to be a broken cable) and my tach doesn't work (haven't set up the tach circuit yet after installing Megajolt). Speed was judged purely on engine and road noise. Since replacing the speedo cable, I've got a working speedometer but it shows that I'm going much faster than I really am. Maybe that's a good thing...

My 19T (white) speedo gear came in. For the first time since owning the car, my speedo will actually be correct (at least as correct as it gets)! Looks like it's yellowed a bit from age, I counted the teeth just to be certain.

Just using the knowledge that I've been compiling over the years of being a car-addict, Z-cars very much included. Hopefully soon, I will be racing cars often. For springs, JohnC recommends using 280Z Tokico springs as they are linear rate and can be cut to size. Keep in mind that when you cut springs, you are increasing their rate. FWIW, I remember at least one person here posting a video of the suspension moving during a track day. Just found it, brought to you by clarkspeed: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97034-video-of-working-suspension/ I think it's great that you're getting your kids involved! Not enough people have any sort of mechanical aptitude (let alone aptitude of any kind) anymore.

Post count on HybridZ is based on technical posts only and doesn't count stuff in Non-Tech, Classifieds, New Members forums, etc.

No problem Alex, it was nice having you come by again. Good luck with the parts selling and congrats again on the baby!

Good metaphor!

Nope, but the next engine I'm putting in is getting the 10lb Fidanza I have sitting around. I didn't say anything about faster shifting, I just have my doubts regarding solving a syncro grind problem by purchasing and installing a lighter flywheel.

My thoughts exactly. A lightweight flywheel could maybe help somewhat, but I just don't see if completely alleviating a syncro grind. TJ, did you bleed and adjust the clutch to FSM specs?

She doesn't mind, as long as the money doesn't come out of the wedding savings. Plus, the trip to pick up the car has of course turned into a weekend-long SLO vacation!

JCan, the build is looking great and very clean! One thing to note: don't fully torque the suspension joints until the car is on the ground and loaded (gas in the tank, and preferably the weight of a person on the seat). It'll be a little more challenging to reach some of the fasteners.

I'm not sure how a lightweight flywheel would help, unless he has a lot of clutch drag with the clutch pedal to the floor. In that case, the clutch hydraulics need to be adjusted.

Good compression means your rings and valves are likely fine. Stem seals sound like the likely culprit.

I think I originally brought it up (I probably should have said "almost any cam for a naturally aspirated automotive engine", really), but nevertheless, you are correct about momentum being the driver of valve overlap. The larger overlap of a more aggressive cam takes advantage of the increased ram effect (momentum) at higher rpm.

Or weed-wackers and VWs, with a few stalls...

Looks like 1/21 is the day that I'll be towing another early 260Z to it's new home!