Leon

Hey there! I have just what you're looking for and way within your budget: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109990-271-240z-rust-free-stripped-shell/

That's what I'm thinking, just go to U-haul and get a truck + trailer. It's a 7-8 hour round-trip. My shell just went up for sale! I've got a bunch of parts as well, so let me know if you need something! Oh, and short commutes are a good thing. I dream of biking to work!

Man, that's awesome! I envy your <45 min commute... Ah, the new Z. I'm 100% set on getting it! However, a few things have to happen first: I need to free up garage space/get rid of a project. This means either the running 260Z goes, or the (amazingly rust free) 2/71 240Z shell goes. I'm now leaning towards getting rid of the shell and the associated parts, since I've finally tuned the Webers on the running Z to near perfection. HOWEVER, there is a catch of course. My fiancee wants me to finance the purchase of the "new" Z with the sale of another one, and not dipping in to the savings account. I'm hoping I can get rid of the shell and a lot of the parts I've been hoarding in order to do this. Man, I need to get going on selling this stuff! Oh, and I'll somehow need to tow that Z from SLO to San Bruno. I'm thinking of renting a truck+trailer in order to be able to tow the car and grab all the spare parts the owner is giving with it.

Nice Clive! I've got a map that I ran on the dyno, it's aggressive but my engine is an internally stock L24. Now the real fun begins!

That's a good point, and it's the collars that are different. A 280Z collar goes with a 280 pressure plate, etc. FWIW, I have read that most if not all stock-replacement clutches are now sold with 280Z-style pressure plates.

No one is being confrontational (or I wasn't trying to be), I was just attempting to provide some factual feedback on your topic. In fact, I praise the DHLA for having external float and pump adjustability... I don't consider the DCOE to be "race dedicated" as it was the OEM carburettor on many European cars of the time. As for timing, well first of all, there is no "best" on HybridZ. There can be a best option for your situation, though. Want a serious ignition system? Get a programmable, crank-trigger, wasted-spark standalone ignition setup. Otherwise, look around for used/rebuilt distributors that either have a decent curve, or get one recurved. I use Megajolt + EDIS on my triple DCOE Z. It's money well-spent in the long run, at least for me. I can tap on my laptop's keyboard and set a 3D ignition map from the driver's seat. Beats the heck out of pulling apart distributors and playing with tiny slots and springs... BTW, the crank-triggered setup ran about $400 and can be had for cheaper, a bargain if you ask me.

Amen to that! Had to find out the hard way...

Sweet! Good to hear you all are doing well. Looking forward to seeing that Z roar!

Confrontational? Ok... There is much misinformation floating around. I'll leave it at that.

Order the 280Z kit. The 260Z has the 280Z steering rack, thus requiring 280Z rack bushings. The 240Z ones won't fit (too small). Also, the 280Z kit should have both front and rear ARB endlinks and bushings. The 240Z had just the front ARB.

No need for a friend to bleed the clutch, just gravity bleed. It's worked well for me. Also, make sure your clutch master cylinder is adjusted per the FSM.

As I said in your other thread, the DCOE is not a "race dedicated" carb, at least no more than a DHLA is. The biggest difference between the two are the DHLA's external adjustments for float levels and accel pump shot. The DHLA shares jets with the DCOE and is no different in function. Most info for DCOEs is either directly or analogously linked to the DHLA. EDIT: I should clarify. Whether they can share jets or not, physically, their operation is the same.

Thanks Clive. Holy crap that is ingenius! I may have to steal your fuel filter idea... Ask away and good luck. Hope you guys are safe and doing well.

How so? My Webers are perfectly streetable. Rock solid idle, good cruise AFR and no bogs, anywhere. The only difference between the Webers and Dellortos is that the Dells have externally adjustable float levels and accel pump (which is a good thing). Otherwise, the DCOE and DHLA even use the same jets.

If you looked at Wikipedia, you would've seen a formula. Also see: http://www.sae.edu/reference_material/audio/pages/Low%20Mid%20Frequencies.htm

Study up on "helmholtz resonance".

Ok, finally got off my butt and decided to post my JCCS content! My fiancee and I set off from the SF Bay Area on the Thursday before the event. The first leg of the trip was San Bruno to San Luis Obispo, about 222 miles. I decided to take the day off work so that I could finish up a few things. One of those things included finally painting the valve cover! Here it is drying, just hours before departure. While the valve cover was off, I stripped the fuel rail of its ugly tin-foil wrap. I had bought some high-temp tape from an auto-parts store and decided to re-wrap it. The result wasn't much better than before, still looked like tinfoil, except this time it was shinier... This issue was taken care of, but not until the day before the show. And we're off! This is CA85, driving through the San Jose area. We left around 4pm, hoping to catch the awesome Thursday farmer's market in downtown SLO. Gauges, check. Hey, it's 6 o'clock somewhere right? Good thing I didn't take a photo of the speedo or tach, as neither of those were in working order at the time! Speed was judged "by eye". Shortly thereafter we made a pitstop, about an hour into the journey. The car gets loud on the highway and we wanted a few snacks (the Z was hungry as well). Took my "default" pitstop exit when traveling on 101, East Dunne Ave. in Morgan Hill. We went to TJ's while the Z munched on some Techron. Took the time to snap a few going through Salinas Valley. Getting closer, probably 50-60 miles from SLO at this point. Now you may be thinking, why the hell is the driver taking photos? Well, the co-pilot seems to have automotive narcolepsy - as soon as she's in a car, she's out for the count. I will say, she's a great sport and does her best to keep me company. I don't mind, sometimes it's nice to just (relatively) quietly cruise through the landscape. But damn did I miss having a radio with a SEEK function! That's what it's all about though, taking a memorable road trip in a loud, smelly old car with the original radio and no AC (more on that later). As it got darker, I finally got to put the new HIDs into action. Man, what a difference, I could see stuff! Sorry, no night shots, that would be a bit difficult to do! Finally, we arrived in SLO safe and sound (phew) with no breakdowns or tickets. The ol' Z ran great the entire way, albeit sucking up gas since the carbs were jetted piggy rich, AFR meter showed 11-12AFR at cruise. We got there after 8pm, parked downtown and hit the farmer's market. Got some fresh fruit to snack on as well as some long-awaited dinner. Mmmm, savory dinner crepes... The inn called me and said we gotta check in, so we finally pulled in around 930pm to settle down and rest for the evening. The weather was great, warm but cooled down during the evening. The room was still friggin hot but aired out quickly. We ate and passed out for the night. A fun Friday hanging out in SLO was ahead of us. Stay tuned!

You posted in the "Parts Wanted" section. For sale ads are posted in the "Parts for Sale" section and in order to post there you must make a (minimum) $20 donation.

Have you tried adjusting cranking pulsewidths (longer PW)?

Sounds like not enough voltage is getting to the solenoid. It's either bad connections or a low battery.

Looking good Ray! PS: those seats of mine may be available in the near future...

Or... just buy an S2000. Muahahaha!

A resonant frequency is just that, one distinct frequency at which something resonates. So yes, if the resonant frequency of a certain spring coincides with 8500rpm, it will not resonate at 9000rpm, although it will experience more motion than when further away from fn. It will also resonate (although amplitude will be less) at other, "harmonic" ferquencies, i.e. 17000rpm, 25500rpm, etc. However, we don't really need to worry about this here...

Follow Murphy's advice, carefully pry up the insert and see which wire (if any) go to the switch. You can then trace the wires and see where they go. If they hook into the stock wiring, bust out the wiring diagram. Otherwise, all we can do is make wild guesses. Any fog/running lights installed on the car by chance?

In the Reference section of xenons30.com. Side-note: I think it would benefit everyone if the forum rules have a requirement of downloading the FSM prior to posting.