Leon

Actually, a quick look in the EM section of the 1972 FSM shows valve lift for a twin-carb'd L24 to be 11mm (0.433"), FWIW.

We're relying on Nissan's published figures. It's in the FSM, as ZH points out. The atlanticz website is very similar to the FSM's specs.

You guys beat me to it! That's what I was getting at...

How are you measuring the cam?

How so? Perhaps you can elaborate on that statement.

Right, but it's a cell phone, so who knows...

Mother of god... I was about to say the same thing! Those monster tires make the car look tiny.

Not that I know of. Here's a list of exterior/interior color combos though, from zhome.com: http://zhome.com/History/colors.html

Congratulations!!! Sounds healthy.

Nice! I use the handle of one of my screwdrivers...

Seconded. I have a complete 240Z dash and gas tank as well, in the SF Bay Area.

The seemingly impossible finally happened, my rust-free 2/71 240Z shell was taken away yesterday. It went to a good home but I'm still a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to get this one back on the road. At least it opens up garage space and motivates me to clean things out and organize! Instead of going all macho-man on it and just lifting it out and walking the shell onto the trailer, like we probably could have, we used some "Egyptian engineering" to safely get the bare shell onto the trailer. It involved pieces of wood, some dollies, and levers. We had my dad, the new owner, my next door neighbor, and myself at work. The new owner's rig, F350 with a 12,000lb trailer. Nice! Prep work After much deliberation, we ended up placing the shell on two dollies which were placed in parallel underneath both floor pans, near the CG of the car. My neighbor is responsible for that decision and it was a good one! That made it easy to tilt and shift weight from either set of dolly wheels, allowing us to get the dollies up on the plywood ramps the new owner set up on the trailer. We had some very long wood planks that the dollies supported, so as not to damage the floor pan rails. Good thing the new owner brought a bunch of wood with him! I didn't get pics of the setup as we were all working. Here you can see some clever lever work to lift the body up and remove the final dolly. The new owner is doing the levering and my dad is in the background. Touchdown! The planks and dollies Rigging up the hood and doors And she's all set for her 400mi trip to LA I've already spoken to the owner and they got home quickly and safely! Meanwhile, I've been cleaning the garage out little-by-little, trying to transition it from a hoarder storage unit, to a nice, usable workspace. I hadn't seen that floor in at least 4 years! Lucky S2000, she gets to stay in the garage now. Well, at least for the next few weeks...

If the above ideas aren't the problem, did you check if you were already sitting on the bumpstops with the car on the ground?

Very nicely and efficiently done, thanks for the shots!

FWIW, I just ordered mine from Nissanparts.cc for $25.10 shipped.

What, do they usually sell for more than $25? I guess I should buy them all up then, muahahaha!

As the title says, I need a 19 tooth speedo pinion gear (white) for my 5-speed. I want to see if anyone has one lying around before buying new ($25). Just need the gear, not the housing. Thanks!

FYI, the early 260Z front strut housings are unique, i.e. slightly different from the 240Z and all other models. I'd recommend either replacing yours with an early 260Z piece, or replacing both front strut housings with 240Z units. Mixing 240Z and early 260Z front struts will make for an uneven side-to-side ride height, the difference is about 1/2" from what I remember.

Looking good Matt! If you're utilizing a hard rev-limiter, there are extra steps as you've noted. The Megajolt website has good info on that as well.

What you're doing is checking speedo accuracy. What Gollum is telling you, is to check the speed of the car (using GPS) versus your tach. Using the calculator that Gollum linked to earlier, 4000rpm in 4th gear (Z transmissions typically have 1:1 4th) gives you 81mph if you have a 3.7 rear diff. Your pics look like an R180 to me.

Both length and diameter play a role. I've helped design and test intake and exhaust pipes and the results corroborated the theory. Length is a great predictor of torque peak. I can see diameter playing a larger role if you're using Helmholtz theory which is based on overall volume (length and diameter dependent). Generally speaking, altering runner lengths to change torque peak and altering diameter to maximize the ram effect but minimize pumping losses is the more logical way to design the system, to me at least. However, as always, there's more than one way to solve a problem. What exactly is the "Chrysler formula", out of curiosity? My model is based on simple wave physics.

I've ordered from them multiple times, without issue (besides the aforementioned "NLA" notice after placing an order). However, my last order from them was probably close to a year ago.

Damn, you're good! Yes, Daimler SP250, that's exactly right. Great info on the Rolls!

Thanks Bill, I was awestruck when I first saw the car after their work on it. Hope to see that RB of your's soon! I appreciate it, Clive! I plan to pick up a nice early 260Z pretty soon from a former college prof of mine. I've got the details on the previous page of this thread, if you want more info! I'm planning to get the car in a few weeks, just need to figure out the truck & trailer situation.

Thanks Alex! Sorry to hear about the dog, hope all is ok there. If you want to cancel the order, I can sell you some used valves from my E31 head if you'd like. I don't think I'll ever use them. Just keep plugging away, an hour here and there, and that Z will get back on the road!