Leon

It's been a while... I found a machine shop for the engine rebuild, turns out every Z owner I've met recently take there engines there (Baca's Machine Shop)! I've also sent the tail-light bezels off to be re-plated about 3 weeks ago, should be another 2-3 weeks until those are back. In the meantime, I'll be painting the tail light panels and stock mirror to close-to factory color. They were painted satin black by the PO. Today I paid for a Datsun Comp 3.9 R180 CLSD after searching for STi R180s for a little while. Hopefully I'll see it in my driveway within a week. Should make for a nice, classic street combo: L28 with triple 45s, late ZX 5-speed, and 3.9 CLSD.

I've got the whole front set, pics are in my FS ad. Not sure what ash tray part you're looking for though. I'm in San Bruno.

Put GL-4 fluid in your transmission. GL-5 will slowly kill your syncros.

MY GOD, that is awesome Ron! No wonder we've seen less of you and BRAAP lately...

Awesome! Thanks John.

You won't be disappointed!

As in bearings, seals, and clutch disks/plates? Anyone familiar with a good diff shop in the SF Bay Area? BTW, thanks for the reply John, I was thinking of just PM'ing you but wanted to consult with the HBZ populace as well.

Hey guys, I've been on the lookout for a 3.9 R180 LSD and have been mostly shopping for STi ones. However, I found an original Datsun Comp unit meaning I won't have to buy the accompanying side-axles, but there's a catch: it's from the '70s and the clutches are worn out, as described by the owner. He said the diff "slips" and doesn't work as well as it used to. Does anybody have info on whether new clutch disks are available from Nissan or anywhere else for that matter? I found an old catalog here: http://www.nissanusa.com/nismo-web/Nismo-Motorsports-Catalog-2010.pdf And cross-referenced the part number to Courtesy which shows the disks as available and apparently shared by many other models: http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?chassis_id=0&keywords=38433-RS610&Submit_Button=Go&cat=1 Can anyone confirm? I'm thinking I should be more worried about the overall condition of the diff (bearings, seals) than the clutch pack anyway... Thanks!

Excellent feedback, thanks!

By new keys do you mean you shimmed them or just bought new ones? Any difference in shift effort?

There's a guy on Craigslist in Santa Clara that has a new set, I think. They look to be the side-by-side ones and not stacked from the box art, not sure what style you're looking for.

Sweet! You're making me want to rebuild one of my ZX trannies...

"Damage was limited to the ego and underpants."

Yes, regulate pressure down to 3psi or so. Whoever told you that is ignorant of how these carbs work. Must be used to small blocks and 4-barrels...

6psi of pressure at the carbs will overpower the floats. Set pressure to 3-3.5psi.

I was wondering the same thing!

quite enthusiastically! When

Of course!

I'm coming at it from a physics perspective. Anecdotal evidence doesn't have much merit unless you actually measured the amount of nose-dive vs. braking distribution (at a given braking force)?

I have one from a 240Z, not sure if it's the same though.

Valves are adjusted with feeler gauges, not your ears. Set it to factory spec (unless the cam grinder specs otherwise).

And my contention is that a severly front-biased system will not dive more than a properly biased one. Your statement is a non sequitur. Not trying to rain on your parade here, just clearing up some facts...

Nope, nose-diving is nose-diving. Would you agree that a car will dive whether the rear brakes or front brakes are actuated? What I'm getting at, is it doesn't matter which axle does the braking. The amount of weight transferred to the front axle is dependent upon total braking force. How much the nose dives has to do with spring rates, suspension geometry, and available braking force.

What makes you think that's how an "unproportioned vehicle" behaves? Nose-diving means there is (longitudinal) weight transfer. Longitudinal weight transfer to the front of the car ("nose-dive") is caused by a braking force. More braking force equals more nose-diving. If your nose dives less than before, it's telling me that you have less braking force, not more.

Looks great Takashi, a very nice original body! I'll have to check that Z out sometime.